hiloracerboy84

haha i couldnt help but picture a teenager doing the gangsta lean in their car tryna be all cool when i read that. in regards to that, why dont you sit up straight like a normal person and set your front stage up nicely? i second the DLS's...i like every set in their line that i've heard.

why 2ohms? that would be the same as running 1 amp at 1ohm...

why dont you hold off on the 4 subs for now, and just get a good amp, and 1 sub, and see how that does...by the question you asked, i think 1 btl on 2-3kw might satisfy you.

very true...just because they can handle the power, doesn't mean they NEED the power..although you won't get full potential out of em...they have super high sensitivity, so theoretically would get the loudest out of all fi subs off that power. also, w/ running that low of power, you probably wouldn't have to worry a whole lot about blowing em, even with the gains cranked, and signal clipping like hell. haha

looks like an ultra-efficient (big), and low tuned box....whats the specs?

yeah. i'd say ditch the amp and buy my sundown 1500. haha. seriously though, i was running my bl on a 1606 hifonics for over a years time and it was okay, but a direct swap w/ my 1500 made a big difference before i got rid of it. are you on hca? if not, theres a lot of helpful guys over there w/ a wealth of info

pretty much it...whatever config. would make it easier to mount and connect everything.

how were your other amps set? lpf can be set either on the deck, or amp...usually the same freq your highs are crossed over at...i'd say most people are 80 or lower. subsonic cuts frequencies lower than that setting - kinda like a high pass filter....if youre using a sealed box, you can turn it all the way down i guess. ported boxes, i'd say at, or a little under tuning. unless you know what you're doing.. phase - leave it at 0 unless youre running some config. where you might get cancellation. single sub, or subs on same plane, you should be good w/ it set at 0 ...and since youre asking these questions....the gain is NOT a volume knob

arent you team sundown? i'd imagine an active setup w/ a 100.4

sorry for the threadjack...but Duran, you caught my attention...so the D2 is the "bigger" coil that could possibly need the clearance when reconing, and thus requiring the "universal" option? ...so if i had D2 subs now, and wanted to recone to D1 but i dont have the univ. option, i'd be fine?

what impedance was the btl?

is money any part of this? if it is, i'd go w/ option 2...running that amp at .5ohm will suck some power. running it at 1ohm will make it possible to keep the HO alt out of the picture...and save you a few hundred.

wire it to 3ohms. thats it.

email either scott or nick. they'll get back to you w/ a shipped price. by looking at the edit, the other guy probably made a smartass remark about fi/re being diff, and didnt know scott originally started re, then started fi or something along those lines.

....so it sounds like chit, and yet you turn it up even more? i wish these types of questions wouldn't come up...YOU shouldn't own a BTL imo. haha

youre going to need a lot more info...what size box do you want, tuning, slot or areo's - port area/number of aeros....all will determine your box

you could go w/ something like knu's where theres up to 3 mini anl's for 450a

kona, you from hawaii?

mofo, avalanche, type r...did all of em go in that box? which one did best? great "mistake" of a build!

very nice! whats the "diameter" of the port flare...i'm liking that look/size

NOT a good idea....ssa - this is kinda like promoting say generic crappy subs and trying to pass them off as "good". along with being into car audio, i do hid retrofits on the side for people, and have a bit of knowledge on the subject. 1. (big jon) the higher the kelvin, the lower the lumen output. highest output is at 4300k or so. dont let anyone tell you otherwise 2. you can cut the ballast wires if you'd like. just like any other electrical (like our amps, etc..) its better to give clean power to them...a wiring harness connected directly to the battery that's triggered by the oem harness works best in ALL situations. 3. kits...ANY kits, put out massive glare. i dont care if nobody has flashed you, or whatever...your car is a glare monster w/ a hid kit just dropped in. the stock halogen reflectors/fluted lenses are made for halogen output. hid DOES put out more light, and therefore needs special care to control that light, whether in the form of specialized reflectors (lexus is300, older acura tl, toyota prius etc...) or projectors (infiniti, bmw, that stuff) 4. your lights are NOT likely to be "better" with hid's. the glare and control problems i just mentioned come into play with putting light down on the road also....the beam pattern will most likely be horrible with hot-spots everywhere and terrible glare that plays "tricks" on your eyes creating an overall worse experience than with halogens alone i understand that people will inevitably run hid kits no matter what, and to be honest, i was there 6 years ago, but if you ever get the chance to drive a car with good projectors, fresh bulbs, possibly 50w boosted ballasts, and other upgraded goodies, the difference is unbelieveable. just wanted to give a heads up to those interested in going "kit" style HID

SUNDOWN - 1000 or 1200. either will work. read up on gain setting/power handling/why speakers blow or fail. its been covered hundreds of times

subwoofery, i think that's exactly what he said. i think the havoc is a little pricier, but you get what you pay for....plus that damn sexy cone. iirc a while ago, it was 339 or something like that for the havoc.

how much $$$?

(duran beat me to it) - dmm is just one of those handheld voltage meters. (usually a yellow thing w/ a knob on the front for ohms/voltage etc) get a DIGITAL one though. walmart, local hardware store, checkers/schucks etc should all have em. comes in handy for a lot of things here and there. the options are up to you. might as well get cooling since its free though..and cooling includes the pole chamfer. USUALLY once set, it should be good, but be aware of the speaker - as someone on here stated, your ears will tell you if you're reaching mechanical limits, and your nose will tell you if you're reaching thermal limits.