hiloracerboy84

i still think youre a troll. this thread makes no sense, you're always adding tid bits of info here and there, not giving full/correct whatever info til someone says something etc... you came asking for an opinion, lots of people gave them, you still want this, that and what not. now you want people to VOTE for which sub YOU get?

yeah im hoping to be able to go on the smaller side, but i saw a thread where the guy was going w/ almost 180sq in....but i think that was spl specific. anymore input guys? this was supposed to be done, figured out, and paid for last week! (dont worry, i got payment on the way jake). i couldn't get measurements for a 4runner, and had to resort to posting an ad on craigslist and going around putting notes on peoples windows with $$ incentive just to have someone give me 2 minutes of their time. hopefully it stops snowing, and warms up a bit so i can get those measurements from a guy that lives in my apartment complex.

yeah. unless you're competing, i say forget the numbers, and tune low and get the chest shaking bass instead of the itchy-face buzzing bass

keep in mind, 140 isn't really that hard to achieve, even with a beater system, and isn't extraordinarily loud by any means. mid 140's would be loud enough for quite a bit of people. 150s and over may be painful for some i slapped a $30 walmart sub in my box and did a 137.x w/ crappy hifonics power (51hz which isn't all that impressive)

its really hard to "explain" how loud a certain spl will be percieved...for different people, it will vary, whether they've got experience or not. a "basshead" may think 140 is loud enough, yet a beginner might not think that anything that isn't at least mid 40's on music isn't loud at all. with the 12Q (when you make your ported box) and the sundown 1000, i'd be pretty confident to say that you're probably at least in the mid-high 130's range, but like always, install is a big factor, so i can't totally say for sure. perception of loudness will come vary from diff frequencies too...and a same score at diff frequencies will have different effects on you.. (i.e. - 139db at 55hz vs 139db at 29hz). rap songs are more known to have highER bass notes, not high bass notes period. generally, most of em i've mapped out on audacity (which you could use to see the freqs of songs youre listening to) go down to around 35hz, with the exception of some in the 30region. Low stuff i think would be considered 30hz and down. a popular song w/ clear bass notes is "I Put On" by kanye/jeezy. iirc, its 55, 48, 38, 29hz or something like that...im too lazy to look it up these are hard to address questions youre asking, and experience and time will take care of the 1st one

not necessarily, but it might be part of their plan....have you blow the btl, tell you its garbage, and that a w7 is money well spent, and would outperform the btl in every aspect....then pocket your install money for the btl, rape you on the w7, and make a killing on an install for the w7. OR i could just be user error. you need to give more details so that the problem can be narrowed down, and fixed, or prevented in the future.

LOL, duran, as soon as i read that, i was thinking of that EXACT quote...i was gonna post it, but didn't wanna explain in case someone didn't get it

top area should say "send money". put his email into the recipient area, check goods, add something along the lines of "3500d preorder" in the notes section, make sure your address is correct, and send it.

good job. dont think you'll be disappointed. the bl's i had before didn't let me down

true...very true...which is why i never go on CA anymore. lol

duran, i dont care...its the internet. i take no offense. i got on him for his repetitive questions and remarks so its understandable...but Bassman, you wanted advice, and i think SSA is a great forum with lots of info, yet you keep brushing all the advice off. what more do you want?

thats nice of you, but your ignorance and immaturity are what's really bothering me...not cheesy comebacks about my mom or whatever.

oh yeah...my 15 has about 50...so im looking to go about 120-140 possibly...but i saw somewhere someone was running 180ish so just want to know what users have to say about their own experiences. how much area do you have for your xcon box? **found it - 159

yeah, its more of a guideline to idiot proof things, but there is NEVER a set way to do a box. if you can hear port noise (huffing/whooshing/whatever) and it bothers you enough to WANT to change the ports, do it, other than that, leave it. going w/ bigger ports means longer ports for same tuning, decreasing box size etc.. so if you're a noob, leave it alone

is that really your box, or just some picture you pulled of the net? 1. if that's your install, looks like you have a bit of knowledge at least, and i dont see why you keep asking the same damn question over and over and over. as stated before, since you mentioned rap, hip hop, and bass cd's, go with a bl 2. you said you had 2 ed's in a 6 cube sealed box 3. first you were asking wtf a spider was, then a few posts later, you were all like "yeah my spiders ripped blah blah blah" and jumped on the eD bashing wagon. i think you're not serious, and are interested in wasting everyones time, or are just smoking too much of something

are you from hawaii?

maybe you damaged something while the ssf was turned down and you played too far below tuning

do you WANT lots of lows, or they're just lacking? if you want em, go toward the bigger side, and tune low. 4 cubes at like 29-32hz should give you nice lows, but if you go w/ say a 35 hz tuning, you'll cover a broader spectrum but still have a bunch of lows

i figured it wouldn't be a big diff, but just wanted to confirm my theory or have it shot outta the sky. thanks for the info nick!

x2 on that. I was wondering the same thing. I am about to place my order. I read back through some threads and was unable to find any information as to the subs performance with the universal option. Hopefully Nick or Scott can provide some feedback on this. still hoping scott/nick can chime in on this. im interested to find out too... This is how i look at it: D2 coils are "bigger" (wound) than D1 coils. the added machining to fit em takes away motor strength. couple that option (universal) w/ a D1 coils and have less motor, and more gap to lose electromagnetics = lower performance. my theory is that the strength of subs would be as follows (from strongest to weakest): gap optimized for D1 (not universal) w/ D1 coils = optimal gap clearances. more motor strength overall = strongest gap optimized for D2 (same as universal) w/ D2 coils = optimal gap clearances. less motor strength overall = stronger gap optimized for D2 (universal) but w/ D1 coils = not optimal gap clearance, less motor strength overall = strong someone correct me if i'm pulling ideas out of my ass, or confirm if its correct.

i like the newer edead products. i was sorting through some online searches and saw they used rebadged asphalt peal n seal type of stuff before, but their stuff out now (i used v1se2, and now have edead45 and 80) is top notch imo. for the price, you can't go wrong. it sticks like a mofo, and is definitely not asphalt based. i personally like the thinner alum. layer and more pliable properties. nice review to compare products though, but let us know which version it was (edead)

Heres my stab at trying to easily sum up clipping: your HU has a preout voltage...this is a rated voltage that it puts out of clean signal at a given volume level. granted, this voltage will be reached quicker when using different features on the deck. i.e. - using bass boosters, eq, sub level control. - w/ flat eq, and sub level all the way down, you may be able to play at vol 45/62 to reach given voltage. if the eq is set with some +db in bass, and the sub level is all the way up, you may reach that same voltage at vol 32/62. this is for the HU output voltage. amp gains are marked w/ maybe 8v-.2v or whatever. like how people say "the gain is not a volume knob", this is where this comes in. the gain is to match your gain to the HU output to optimize output. there will be a spot...some spot (oscope will find it - right before the signal clips) that the gains are matched. this can be roughly done with a dmm and some formulas too. Setting the gain on an amp is usually done w/ a test tone as this usually presents the most stressful situation an amp will face (music is usually recorded at a lower vol), and gives you a point to set your gain at so as not to clip w/ on music (the stressful situation of the tone gives you headroom on music). Once that matching point on the amps gain is passed (using it as a vol knob or just not caring), the amp does as it is "told" and amplifies the signal it is being fed even more. Since there is no more "clean" signal to amplify, the wave becomes distorted. How do you make a round object bigger? same way that kicker used the L7 concept - make it square-er. (picture a wave w/ peaks and troughs all nice vs. the notches/teeth on a gear). Though the waves may have the same amplitude (height), the square waves have more area under them. This non-linearity and offset of power to wave amplitude (amount of power) equals the same amount of linear output to the speaker, yet the square wave has that much more "area" or power under it. This added power per given output to the speaker creates extra heat that the speaker can't efficiently cool itself with (using whatever features it has - pole, cooling vents, channels etc.). ultimately, this leads to burnt voice coils, maybe burnt tinsels...a blown speaker. THIS is why some people blow a 1000w sub on 500w, and many safely run 3,4,5k watts to a 2k watt speaker...its all about having a clean undistorted/unclipped power source (you get into the thermal/mechanical limits here too, but these guys usually know when to turn it down, but a lot of times, with clean signal, a speaker can surpass its rated power and run fine). i guess this is why there's a lot of recommendations to get amps bigger than what speakers are rated for....so even if they do use the gain as a vol knob, theres less of a chance that it'll reach clipping at their preferred "volume" level. (running extra power is always good too imo, but thats a diff. story) anyway, hopefully this explanation kinda clears things up a bit on clipping. i tried to make it as basic/general as possible. i know there's prob a bunch of mistakes to it, so the experts should chime in and correct me when they see some mistakes.

not necessarily..depends on hu voltage, bass bosters, eq, vol....

well it depends if you run around pounding your stuff all the time or not...if you drive with it at lower/mid levels, it should be fine, cause the amp wont be drawing a lot of current all the time and the alt wont have to work to charge your batt(s). if you DO slam your stuff all the time, the alt and/or batts would be a good solution. just for reference - as of now, i dont have my rear batt in, and i can get to the mid-high 130's range w/ my 12" bl and saz3000d @ 1ohm and not pop a 50a fuse...(just to give an example of lower vol. listening not drawing a lot of amperage)

you just have to find a sub that'll take that power. not a WHOLE lot of choices, so it shouldn't be all that hard. "good sounding" is up to your ears, and will come from the INSTALL. i hope you have the highs to keep up with a loud substage if youre going 2x15's, 2x18's or whatever. what's this going in anyway?