hiloracerboy84

why not just run the 2ga all the way to the back and just trim it down so it fits in the amps terminals...the distro would be added resistance, and extra money for nothing

chit son, looks very nice oh, and loud too

^^ lets see the build on hca!

ayee...the HI boys are all over ssa right now. lol

with a 15 and >1000w, i'm sure itll be over 140. but how much over...that's all up to the meter to decide. lol

damn, i'd be happy with a 149 at sub 30hz. that to me is much more impressive than a 150's club at 50+hz

i assume those numbers were taken on a tone? if you're doing spl, then max efficiency is key, then you can mess around with impedence and rise and all of that in a given enclosure at a given freq. if its daily, impedence will fluctuate all over the place so its not really important imo. i could be wrong though

oh, sundown 1500/3000d, IA 20.1?

wow...700 isn't anywhere to be found in my dictionary under the word "cheap". haha but i guess that's just cause im cheap

dont know...but you sure are getting some huge dimming

depends....150@60hz is meh. 150@30hz is i take it you haven't heard 150 before. Your question is stupid, but most likely, no it won't be in the 50's range

could be the vehicle res. freq and box coming into play. i have a single 15 off of a 3000d at 3.0@33 and do 148.1 at 48hz. the 48hz is the peak (vehicle) not matter what my box is tuned to. i tried going with abs external port and cut from 25hz up to 50hz tuning and the peak freq barely strayed away from 48hz. if you can, get some time with the TL to fool around and find what works. 145 at 36hz is very respectable. that's a decent amount of output in the 30hz region. you will notice more strictly spl guys are burping in the high 40s-50s region, and although yes it's impressive to see a 150 @ 55hz or whatever, imo 145@ 30hz is a lot more impressive to the ear. like stated, box position, visors, all that stuff can have a big impact, so just guess and check with variables. you can never really have a PERFECT system (really loud daily, yet put up high numbers), but your best bet to getting that would probably be port plugs or interchangeable ports as mentioned. i would just build a separate comp box though, as a higher tuned box wont give you the lows like your current box does.

...bringing this back from the dead, what's the cutout diameter for the 18 nightshade?

...the words "spec box" dont belong in that sentence either if youre going for spl. i'm happy with my nightshade. 3@33hz does 148

decided to downsize the area to 120sq inches and see how it works. hopefully i'll get my stuff in and be able to post some numbers. the 15 thats getting reconed did 148.0@44hz w/ ~1500w. 3 cubes tuned to 33hz

ok, so its either 2 15's or 2 18's and its coming down to port area that will decide whether i have enogh space or not. how much port area are you guys using for 2 18 nightshades. im shooting for 8cubes w/ ? port area @ 30hz

keep in mind, you're gonna spend about 3 times what you spend on the subs just for amps and the electrical to power them when dealing w/ that much power

is CA glue or the new epoxy included with a recone? i need to know if i have to find my own, or it's included

alright, sounds good...i assumed the ca glue wouldnt be cheap. at hobby shops, that small little bottle is like 7 bucks, and by the looks of it, i would probably need at least 2 per sub. ill go the epoxy route, but maybe ill just go for the 1hr stuff so i dont have to rush, and could possibly get a stronger bond. thanks NS

thanks for the replies guys...i haven't recieved a response from him yet, so i dunno...plus idk if my stuff went out already. if it has, then oh well..ill just use the epoxy. so is the consensus that locktite is the best? or should i just look for the highest psi holding strength 5min epoxy? also, what's the best for spacing the VC? in the past ive used manila folder, thin cardboard, etc...anyone know what's best here, so i can get it done as quick as possible w/o going on a hunt for something that'll fit in there snugly

haha, thats classic. if you dont mind me asking, is there a way to determine power w/o a digital readout? i'm gonna be doing this w/ my nightshade 15 in a few days, but want to know what kinda power im getting. does it have to be at 2ohms, or doesnt matter? i have a d1 sub also. ill prob build a ~55hz box for the test and have a vid w/ the TL to see that kinda #s come up too.

in the 140ish sq in range. this is for 2 18's. 8 net at 29 or 30hz. the port is taking up about 3.5 cubes. 3000d on em

i personally think "breaking in" is just softening up the spiders to what they'll end up at, and burning off any excess glue/epoxy whatever used in building it. its not needed imo, and i have never had any problems ^^ you're not going to heat up the vc very much in a free air situation. it'll take substantially less power to get it to full excursion w/o the "loading" a box presents.

well ill probably post some results if i get around to it...TL numbers and possibly vids

i guess as with all the nightshades, they like smaller boxes....its a good thing for a daily user. more space for more cone area jake, you got an email about this