hiloracerboy84

i think its cause the t/s are for a dual4...but i could be wrong

i just woke up, but it looks as though the box is roughly 1.4 in the 55ish hz region...so unless you want to blow your sub, i wouldn't recommend using it w/ music.

i agree with ku40...how does it sound? i always see this and seems like its more for show than anything else. lookin' good though! imo tinting the windshied is a waste...tint is so people can't see in, not to obstruct your view out...and putting 50 on the windshied will def. do that. if you're worried about people being able to "see" in from the front, go w/ 5 all around, and a low strip, and that should keep light out, and people from being able to see in. my subaru is 5 all around w/ a big strip, and my 4runner is 1 on the back, and the strip and front windows are 5 and on both vehicles you can't see anything past the steering wheel

ported to 28-30hz should be nice w/ the w7

"g31" is just referring to any sort of group 31 size battery (the big ass ones)

hey hey cliff, dont be hating. you kicked my ass anyway, so no matter

loud to the ear or spl? either way, you could consider sealing to the cabin

2x the cone area = what? it doesn't take a rocket scientist to figure out that 2 12's have the potential to get louder than a single 12, no matter how badass it may be. i've owned a few 12" bl's and ran em on a 1606d, sundown 15000d, and 3000d, and they were all very nice setups for a daily driver. i think you're expecting miracles from a sub...and that will not happen. yes, the bl's are wonderful and very nice drivers, but most likely they will not win in overall output against twice the cone area, no matter how "great" those subs are. 2 cubes at 34hz should be nice for daily driving, but you may want to try a box that's say 2.5ish at 31-32hz if you feel the other one isn't working.

I'll say it again and again, the w7 and anything JL is quality and in many cases worth the money. Like previously posted, With the same power, you aren't going to see much different. They are both good subs with good amounts of output. The only advantage to selling the w7 and getting a Fi is maybe put a couple bucks in your pocket. If you want a change in performance and don't acre about the money, I'd keep the w7. And JL audio has incredible customer service. I may not know the names of the people who work their but they take care of all their customers. I sent in a woofer that was damaged by my ignorance and they repaired it for free, no questions asked within a week and half. Theres some benefits to going through dealers. so why are you quoting me here? i simply told the dude to contact people i know who are in his area so he might have the opportunity to hear a Q since he's never heard one. i said nothing about JL and their products. i just gave an option as to saving money if he wanted to try the Q out (selling the jl and buying a Q)...money doesn't grow on trees for me, so im all for saving a few bucks, and i think anyone else would be too. if you wanted to argue about my statement about Fi's CS, it was a statement...not to be taken literally. IMHO, taking in a woofer no questions asked, through a dealer or not, and fixing/replacing it means they have one thing in mind...and that is to keep the customer they're ripping off in the first place happy. that's just my opinion though. but on topic, dirsh i still say contact those mentioned as they might know someone running a Q so you could take a listen. i agree that a direct drop in probably wouldn't yeild a drastic difference, but if you're in the market for a nice alternative, the Q would probably be something to look into.

x2 on firing to the rear. when i had boxes in my trunk, it was always loudest with sub as far back as possible with port on drivers side. i always seemed to get really bad unloading and mechanical noise on the sub when firing forward.

haha that was a dumb question now that i look at it? shouldve been more along the lines of "what kinda steel plate(s) you got welded in under there?"

is the headliner just filled, or did you lay mat first, and use anything else like pegboard, mdf, etc?

contact Theabunai, or hawaiianmaxx and they could probably point you in the direction to sample somebody's setup since they've got a lot of ties in the CA community on oahu. if anything though, you could sell the w7, buy the fi, and have some money leftover in your pocket to spare. can't beat fi's customer service though! i've dealt with them numerous times over the past 2 years and scott and nick are always more than happy to help out with anything you need.

thanks for the wiseass response, but i don't care. i did however, waste enough time reading your thread to justify responding to inform you that your question can't be answered by anyone but yourself. as usual, it's install and vehicle dependant

you're not getting it. no matter what specs you post, nobody will know what does best on your chit. YOU go listen and YOU make that decision. box size, vehicle res freq, deadening, whatever else will all have an impact on that. why do you care anyway?

i know some rca's dont work when trying to strap amps, so im wondering if anyone is using the knukonceptz karma SS wires to strap their amps with success. these: http://www.knukonceptz.com/productMaster.c...%20RCA%20Kables

you're not satisfied with 2 15" Q's in 8 cubes ported @ 32? maybe you should make sure the box is all good....that setup should have some nice output if done properly

with that info, i say vote 4 8's ported. their small size will give you easier mounting, and usually, it's .5 per when porting, which would give you 1 cube left for port and sub displacement. i think 1 cube tuned in the low 30's would suit you very well.

pm'd him sky. mahalo tho. as far as the topic goes, glad i got mine before this too

what kinda bolts are those used for the terminals?

i thought i saw some on smd, but i could be wrong...that was one time i was browsing there. i dont have an account, am too lazy to look right now to confirm edit: yep, just checked and heres a recent one on smd - http://www.*****.com/board/ind...showtopic=39623

with what you have, you seem to be at least a little serious about audio..imo you should find your res freq first, then build a couple boxes with diff configurations to find out what works best for max spl. as far as boxes go...i have my 15 in 3 cubes tuned to 33 w/ 56sq in of port. tuned for daily my res freq. still has me peaking with 148s at 48hz

andew, wanna sell me one? lol. jake, what do you mean by too tight?

amperage rating is also a function of wire length. length=resistance=bigger wire required. if that 4ga run is short, then it wont matter

so you're looking into a digital voltage display distro block? if so, you wont see it when you're playing...just run straight wire, and get a stinger volt meter or something up front. my opinion