b34tBoX

I e-mailed Soundstream for some internal shots of the RUB1.2500D. I also asked if the series shares any circuity with any other SS models. Wish me luck! =P

Noone likes Soundstream? I thought the Tarantula 1500D was awesome. I still had a 1/3 turn on it after putting ~1200RMS to a loaded Fi BL.

No more than $400.

I have, they have the same layout, but do use different components.

Hey guys, I'm looking at 2000RMS+ to power the BTL. I'm upgrading from a 12" Fi BL (1000RMS) which was powered by a Tarantula 1500D. That was a very nice combination. Therefore, the Sundown 1500 is not an option.

It's to power a 12" Fi BTL (dual2) @ 1ohm. So far, I've looked at: Hifonics BXi 2610D Soundstream Rubicon 2500D (Probably my top pick, so far.) AudioQue 2200D Uhh, basically anything under $400 that would provide sufficient enough power to move a BTL with some remaining overhead.

Oh right. canadiancaraudio. com Thanks!

Hey guys, been trying for the last week to get rid of my current equipment to make room for new stuff. I put some ads up, and not one person has been interested, not even any lowballers. lol When I had two Hifonics amplifiers of comparable power for sale last spring I got literally flooded with demand, and I asked just about the same amount of money. Although they were unused. Here's what's for sale. Keep in mind I live in Canada. Not easy to get Fi up here, and Soundstream is not seen often. $300 - 12" Fi BL - Dual 2, Cooling, Flatwind, Daily $300 - Soundstream Tarantula TRX1500D $200 - Soundstream Tarantula TRX2.550 Was thinking about knocking $50 off everything. Let me know what else I should try. I even offered free shipping on the amps to anywhere in Ontario/Quebec. Here's the ads anyways: https://accounts.craigslist.org/post/shwpst?pii=1463465635&db=lv https://accounts.craigslist.org/post/shwpst?pii=1463480727&db=lv

Thanks guys, I appreciate the helpful information. I'm going to see what I can do. I really want to order my new stuff ASAP!

Yeah, I never really thought of that. But it is true. People don't want something they are unfamiliar with.

I am not selling them on SSA, but thanks for trying to point something out that is inapplicable to me, I really appreciate it.

It's hard for me to wrap my head around that because after shipping and brokerage it was no less than $450US delivered. But someone who comes across the ad may not realize those extra expenses involved in obtaining one, new.

I was at a car audio shop a while back and they had this stuff they called, "Dum-Dum" I think. It came on a roll like tape, but was thick and kind of like putty but sticky as well. Anyone heard of this? \Where can I get some?

In anyone's experience, does it matter if the elbow of an L-Port is angled or kept at 90*? As far as sound quality or output is concerned.. It would be easier to build boxes with a 90* angle like that found on the RE box calculator. I've always used an angled elbow, as shown below.. It just seems to make sense, but just wondering!

Thanks guys!

Hmm, how do you figure out what fuses to run for inline power and distributor block? Right now they are matched with the amps, but they should be matched with the wire, right? Here's what I have now: Soundstream TRX1500D (120A) Soundstream TRX2.550 (60A) Inline Fuse = 250A Distribution block = 60A & 120A Power wiring is all 1/0 except after distribution block (2x4AWG) Question is for next year, I'm doing some upgrades: Soundstream RUB1.2500D (250A) Sounstream RUB2.600 (60A) Wiring will remain the same except I'll be running 1/0AWG from the block to the 1.2500D What fuses should I choose? Do I need to upgrade anything else? Alternator is 200A. Lemme know if you see something not right..etc. It's my first build! Engine Bay: Trunk:

Anyways, I would assume that there would be no problems using a BTL sub in a box designed for a BL, right? Could anyone please confirm?

Just wanted to let people know that I am currently using a home built enclosure. 2.5cuft @ 32Hz for my 12" Fi BL. Next year, I will be upgrading to a 12" BTL and am very curious to how the boxes will compare.. I hope to receive the enclosure before I put my car away for winter so I can compare them while I still have the BL.

HU = Alpine 9885 Amp1 (top) = Soundstream 2 Ch 550 Watt Amplifier TRX 2.550 Amp2 (bottom) = Soundstream 1500 Watt Monoblock Class D Amplifier TRX1500D Speakers (front) = CDT Components 6.5 Speakers (rear) = CDT coaxial 6x9 This is weird, last year I had the same problem but I didn't have the extra battery in the trunk and grounded directly to the sheetmetal. I figured the amp was to blame after some troubleshooting, I RMA'd it. This year I added the battery, using the replacement amp which is the same one and the speakers STILL pop during shutdown. Top amp. Picture of setup. http://b34tbox.googlepages.com/IMG_2964.jpg Here's a video of the problem. The speakers pop when the top amp's green light turns off. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p5O6hsgyRC4 It looks like the top amp is not discharging properly. What else could I check. How does the light activity look?

Well the remote read 11.5V at the amp terminals, and no spikes during startup or shutdown. Actually the noise is coming from 80% the left side. I switched RCA's Left to Right the noise remained the same. Then I swapped the speaker wire for left and right, and the noise moved mostly to the right. Someone suggested I install a resistor to the remote lead?

I'm going to measure the voltage of the remote lead during amp turn-on and amp turn-off and see if I notice anything suspicious..

Right now I have one remote turn-on lead going from the HU to the 1500 to the 550. As in, the wire goes into 1500, and then another wire goes from that terminal to the terminal on the 500. (daisy chained) I think last year, I went from the 550 first then the 1500, and my sub popped instead. Am I running the remote lead improperly? Maybe there's too much voltage through the remote lead? Maybe put a resistor inline? Was thinking about doing this: http://www.mobileaudio.com/rac-faq/rac-faq_2.html#SEC14 But figured if I turn the amps off with the switch and they still pop, it may not actually help.

Just for kicks I changed the -BATT lead from the trunk to the seatbelt bolt.The amps behaved the exact same. =[

I posted a picture in the original post. They are grounded at the same location. BTW, there's also a video too. =D

The sad part is, I all ready have an inline switch for the remote wire, and it STILL pops when I shut the amps off before the headunit. Possibly HU ground issue? I would have assumed that if it were the case, then the rear speakers would pop as well..