b34tBoX

Yeah, I guess it would not matter which battery I hook the additional 1/0 too, would it. No fuse from alt to battery. No negative run from front to rear, should I? Big 3: Positive alt to battery. Negative batt to chassis, and chassis to engine. Battery in front specs: Group 34/78; Cold Crank Amps 800; Crank Amps 1000; Reserve Capacity 100; Ampere Hour 50 Battery in rear specs: D34/78; Cold Crank Amps 750; Crank Amps 870; Res. Capacity 120; Ampere Hour 55. I'm VERY open to how you guys would wire it, I'll rip everything out if I have to, I just want to make sure I'm doing it right.

I have one run of 1/0 from the front battery to the rear battery, fused at 250A. From the rear battery I have 1/0 going to the 2-way distro. block to the amps. Pictures always help.. I guess what I'll do. Is keep what I have, change out the fuses in the distro. block for a 30A and 60A and power the smaller amps. Then run another 1/0 fused @ 250A directly to the 2500D from the front battery. Sound good?

I don't exactly know what this statement means on the BTL ordering page: "Current lead time is 30 days as of 11/30/09. Free cooling and sticker pack for all that order during this period." As I recall, cooling is usually a $40 option. And I would like to take advantage of it, but would like some clarification first, thanks!

Sounds accurate, thanks.

Seriously, what model? I use Krystal RCA Kables, and didn't notice..

Cool, thanks for the honesty.


Inner Heat Sink: Its a machined aluminum ring in the gap that lowers the voicecoils inductance (allowing it to play up higher and have a little better overall transient response). It also reduces the volume inside the magnet gap of the motor increasing air speed with the cooling as well as allowing the coil to kick off heat to a more receptive thermal mass rather than magnets. 
 I'm looking for a daily speaker. Does adding the IHS which according to the definition, allows to play higher have any effect on the lows? Is this a recommended option to get with the following other options, Cooling & HiXmCoil?

I set the HPF to 80 or 120Hz for front and rear speakers through HU.The idea of fading to the front seems like the most logical solution to this issue without having to add another amplifier but I might just pick up a tiny 75x2 amp just in case. Besides, a triple stack amp rack is more impressive than double.

HU: Alpine 9885 (4V) Front speakers: CDT CL-62 (160RMS) Rear speakers: CDT 69X (100RMS) Subwoofer: Fi 12" Here's how I have them wired. Front speakers are amplified, rear speakers are running off the head unit. The rear speakers start to distort at around 25/35 HU volume. Why? Ideally I would have preferred to have my HU @ ~30/35 for PEAK listening levels. But as of now, since the rears distort so early I have my front speakers and sub tuned to peak at around 22/35. Most of the audio is definitely coming from the front and the rears are doing a good job imagining, but I find that I could get much more out of my system if the rears weren't limiting me so much. What are my options to get more power from my HU and into the amps? Coles notes: Front speakers amplified, rear speakers off HU. Rear speakers distort @ 25/35 therefore the rest of system is tuned to max listening levels @ 22/35. Sounds good, but would like more output from HU.

It literally does not give any description for subwoofer level, balance or fader.

Manual doesn't say anything specific about fade. Found this on another website: "Even with just 18W per channel (referring to the 9885), the db6500's (Polk Audio @ 100RMS) component speakers operate well although I'll probably get an amp soon because it starts to distort at around 22 (out of 35) on the volume." That sounds about similar to me, I'm definitely going to try the fade again. Thanks guys.

Yeah, it does have a subwoofer line-out. I edited my post. So by fading forwards it's just basically lowering the level of the rear?

Would I lose any sound quality by doing this? When I tried that, something felt out of balanced, or missing..Imagination?

Is it the HU's pre-amp that is giving out prematurely as the volume raises? I don't want much more audio coming from the rear so I would assume that by adding a small amp then it would allow me to raise the HU volume and therefore I'd obviously back down the other two amps, ya?

Would roll-on liner be a better choice rather than the spray?

Hey guys. Got a question concerning how much power to give a BTL. My previous system was a loaded 12" BL @ 1ohm load, and pushed by a 1500D amplifier with gains at about 7/10 and 4V headunit @ 22/35. I figure it was about 1200RMS? Now, I see all these people with BTL's saying they push them with 3500RMS+. I just don't see how that's going to be possible.. I'm asking because I figured I could get away with running a 2500D amp for a single loaded 12" Fi BTL . Should I really be looking at more powerful amps?

Hey guys, going to be replacing my "200a" alternator, why, because well, I just found out that it reaches it's peak at 5000rpm..lmao Anyways, new system will be ~2500RMS with a total of 260a's of fuses. 200 (mono) + 60 (2chan) What size alternator should I be looking at, would a 200a that reaches peak @ 1500rpm be OK? Or should I go bigger?

The alt. I have now which puts out 200a @ 5k, is engine RPM. =[

2001 Grand Prix. I somewhat was looking for cheaper alternatives to Iraggi. Excessive Amperage being my 2nd choice. But I JUST found this new company. DB Electrical. http://stores.shop.ebay.ca/DB-Electrical-Starters-Alternators They say their alts reach peak amperage @ 1200rpm. After a little research, the reviews seem to be really good on the DB's. Off-road guys for their winches and other car audio guys.. But it seems the highest rated for my vehicle they provide is 220a. EA has 225a, I talked with Nate. I think I would be OK with either since I really had no problems with my old "200a" alt and ~1500RMS.

I'll be getting the Soundstream RUB1.2500d to push a 12" Fi BTL. However, that will be in the spring. If you get it before me, please provide us with a quick review, and/or just PM me some internal shots of the amp. =D

Thanks guys!

OK, so with a smaller box more power is required to "fight" against the enclosure inefficiencies? So, assuming I build a box that is 3.0cuft @ 32Hz for the BTL, then a 2500RMS amplifier would actually be a good match?

So the larger the box, the more power efficient it is? So if I were to run a smaller box I would have to run more power to equal the sound I could get out of a larger box with less power?

Hey guys, just wondering how difficult it is to disable the illumination of the logo on these amps. I don't have one, otherwise It'd be open by now. Also, is it only the logo that lights up? I know the 08 series there's LED's as well around the border of the faceplate.