b34tBoX

How would I fit those combination into the trunk? I have a fold down center passthrough in the rear seat, which I leave open. 12" BTL is fine for what it is, but it's not enough. I'm trying to choose something that still meets Fi's enclosure specifications. I figure that's really important?

IDK man, but I have Bar 9 - Midnight on my IPOD and it's definitely one of my favorite tracks to demo with. Have to get Borgore - Guided Relaxation Dub now, sound EVIL! Thanks. BTW, here's a HD sample. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CeZ9FcXp_Ys&fmt=37

Get: DJ Scream & Lil Hot - Back To The Streets I would say it has more good beat than any other rap album out there.

New enclosure built. Went with 31x16x18 external. (2.8cuft after displacement) 3.125 x 14.5 port area. @ 30Hz L-port has two 45* bends instead of one 90* elbow. It definitely does sound different. Actually, due to the larger port area, I feel the air velocity has decreased, and overall, lost a few dB on output. Can't seem to make my center console jump like before. However, The lows are coming through much clearer! The sub now seems to be matching up better with the front components at normal listening volume, and SQ has improved. In conclusion, I feel that I will be much happier in the long run with the improved sound of the new enclosure, but lost some of it's "show-off power." (ie. peak outout) I will be carpeting the new enclosure in a few days.

** Coles notes: 12" BTL (D2, loaded, Daily). Maximum Dimensions: 31" x 16" x 18". Want to hit the lows better. ** What is required to build a box specifically for lows. Larger box? More/less port area?.........etc. I had a BL last year, and have "upgraded" to a BTL this year. I have two boxes that were used with the BL, one built by Thumper and another I did myself. The PTS box is tuned to 32, I think mine might be tuned lower, not really sure. Used subwoofertools.com back in the day, and it told me it was 32Hz after displacement. It's 27" x 16" x 18" with port 14.5" x 2.5" x ~33". 3/4 MDF. When I put those dimension in RE Calculator it comes up with 29.81Hz (before displacement) Both boxes were used with the BL, I've been using my box for the BTL, and it seems like the sub bottoms out a bit on the lows. <30Hz Maybe I just had higher expectations when I replaced the BL with the BTL. Mostly chopped and slowed music + rap with low bass is what I listen to while driving. I don't know why, I prefer Drum and Bass music, but when I get in my car it's always low bass rap. Weird.

My subsonic I think was set WAAAAY too low. ~ 22hz. I increased it to about 30Hz, and it seems like the lows are coming through ALOT more clear. Really had a chance to actually enjoy the music, it sounded really good. BTW, I edited my post, the port length is around 33", I accidentally just wrote the length of one wall. Now, I think for the hell of it, I'm going to build this box. The internal cubic feet after woofer displacement x 16 is about equal to the port area.

My subsonic I think was set WAAAAY too low. ~ 22hz. I increased it to about 30Hz, and it seems like the lows are coming through ALOT more clear. Really had a chance to actually enjoy the music, it sounded really good. BTW, I edited my post, the port length is around 33", I accidentally just wrote the length of one wall. Now, I think for the hell of it, I'm going to build this box. The internal cubic feet after woofer displacement x 16 is about equal to the port area.

Hmm, strange. I always thought that if I want to hit the lows more, and shift the responsive curve to the bottom end. That it's done by tuning lower? I could always try building a higher tuned box like you say and using more port area. However, say I build a box like yourself tuned to 38Hz, wouldn't my subsonic need to be set a few frequencies lower, ie. like 35Hz?

Was thinking about something like this. SubwooferTools.net Calculator However I want to retain an L-shaped port. So, I would add the length of port walls together. In this case 13 + 13 + 5.5 = 31.5 port length @ 14.5" (port height) x 3.75" (port width)? When I duplicate the dimensions of the box found on subwoofertools into RE audio calculator, I get a tune of 37.14Hz. How could they be so different!? So yeah, still need some help.

Currently have a 12" BTL (D2, loaded, daily) powered by 2500D. Box is 2.5cuft @ 32Hz (after displacement). External dimensions 27" x 18" x 16". Port is 14.5" x 2.5" x 40"? (forget, used subwoofertool.com few years back) Would like to get a bit more out of the lows. They hit good as it is now, even down to 25Hz, but they could probably be better. Just wondering what I would need to do to make another box that specializes in the bottom end more. Smaller box? Larger port?..etc. Was thinking, maybe 28-30Hz tune? Maximum dimensions: 31" x 18" x 16"

** Coles notes: Very hot today, as soon as I turned up the volume the 2.600 amp shutdown, at about 1/3 volume every time. Was fine last night, had them cranked for a long time, no issues (I assume cooler outside too) ** Was thinking of adding three 140mm fans to each side of the amplifier rack after I drill some ventilation holes along the sides. Soundstream Rubicon amps in amplifier rack 1.2500D - bottom 2.600 - middle 2.250 - top Speakers. CDT CL-62 (2 pair per side, front) CDT CL69X (rear) Fi BTL (Dual 2, loaded) Had the fronts in parallel from the 2.600 @ 2ohm load. Rears @ 4ohm load. Sub @ 1ohm load. Hooked everything up last night, no problems setting gains, front speakers sounded great, cruised around, bumped some tunes. Perfect. Today, went for a drive, was increasing volume, got to about half and all front speakers kicked out, and 2.600 went into protection. Turned HU off, then on, amp was OK to use again, then same thing, shut off as I increased volume. Noticed the 2.600 was the warmest of the three amplifiers. OK, disconnected a pair of components and ran one pair @ 4ohm load, no issues getting them to sing. Amplifier didn't get as warm running a pair full blast @ 4ohms compared to running them all at less than 1/4 volume @ 2ohm. Do I have a heat issue? Was thinking of adding three 140mm fans to each side of the amplifier rack after I drill some ventilation holes along the sides.

Hey guys, I think we've figured out the problem here. After improving the ground location to the frame, and switching the input on the monoblock, things are sounding good, and no issues so far, even in this heat. (31*C / 87.8*F) Yes, I'm using the seatbelt bolt, it only attaches to the belt and does not hold the seat in place. I also NEVER have any passengers in the rear, in fact my whole rear bench is out, ATM. I could see if that location was used while people used the belt/seat that it would impose a safety concern..maybe. (As in probably not pass safety inspection, if they even noticed it) Just wanted to say thanks for taking the time to help a newbie out! (PS: I may drill a new location on the frame to even further improve the ground.)

Received my amplifier today, well actually three. Soundstream RUB1.2500D Soundstream RUB2.600 Soundstream RUB2.250 Here's the internal shots of the 2500D, what else shares this board? Large size: http://sites.google.com/site/b34tbox/amp_inside2.jpg

Thanks for the help so far guys. I've relocated ground to seatbelt bolt (sanded prior) that goes right into frame. So far no issues with the 600 cutting out, but I have been cruising around with A/C on fairly high. Have not noticed much of a temperature decrease when I touch the amps. One issue I've noticed before and after relocating ground. After extended periods of music the subwoofer likes to fade out and become fairly inaudible. No protection light on amp, just goes REALLY faint. Nearly off. I had the input selection to 2V-8V assuming my Alpine 9885 is a 4V out. When I switch to .1V-2V it becomes functional again, so have left it like that. I tested the RCA's with a DMM set to 200, and they all read .02V at the amps, now does that mean 2V or 200x0.02 = 4V? I've included pictures of amplifiers if you guys could review them, and give me feedback. Set gains with volume @ 25/35 and subwoofer output @ 13/15. HPF is set at 80Hz from HU. 2.250: http://sites.google.com/site/b34tbox/250.jpg 2.600: http://sites.google.com/site/b34tbox/600.jpg 1.2500D: http://sites.google.com/site/b34tbox/2500.jpg Input on both two channel amps is at about 4/10 and monoblock is 6/10. No bass boost on any of them. Subsonic ~20Hz. LPF at ~80Hz on 2500.

What electrical system upgrades are you using? HO alternator? Is that Optima in the trunk isolated or just run parallel to the starter battery? How are the amplifier gains set? (most common reason amps shut down like you describe is from clipping due to lack of current, of the input stage being over-driven.) The amp rack looks great.. from the front If you want some really slick fans that will help with airflow, google "PAC CF-1 FAN" You'll get a result of my favorite car amplifier fans. Give those a try. 270A DC Power alt. with big-3. Battery is run parallel to front battery. Last year I was using a cheap 200A ebay alternator, and I was seeing about 14.8V steady, the alternator swap was the only difference since I last measured voltage. I know there is a voltage booster available for my car which increases it by .6 volts. It's a connector that plugs inline with the alternator, the voltage regulator is found inside the alternator. I set gains by ear. They are all approximately set to 1/2.

That was also an option I was thinking of. I will try the new ground tomorrow and see how things fair, before I run a new ground front to back. PS: Thanks for replying to my PM.

I checked the ground with DMM set to 200. And it measured in at a whopping -22.5ohm. I checked a seatbelt bolt which was pretty oxidized and it measured in at 0.7ohm. I'm thinking if I can use a metal tooth washer and sandpaper the surface that it would provide a much better ground.

I just checked all connections from alternator to rear battery, all was fine except the rear battery top positive terminal post. The wing nut which holds the power cable was slightly loose. Not enough to cause any issues I don't think, but you never know. Also, I would have figured that the monoblock would have given out first if that were the case. I'll run it as is, and see how it is, then run the 2.600 down to 2ohm again and see what happens. I guess my next step after that would be to add some fans.

Voltage is 13.8V steady with DC Power 270A, two optima batteries and big-3 in 1/0.

I know, that ground is very questionable. But would a poor ground cause an amplifier to go into thermal protection mode?

I think you guys give good advice, here are the results. I'm going to make sure to add a layer of sound deadener when I wire them up! As well as paint the mounting screws so they don't reflect. BTW, that's two sets of CDT CL-62 w/ silk tweeters up front @ 600RMS. I noticed on the one kick panel, the dremel with cutting bit didn't jump around much, but the second one for some reason kept jumping all over the place, even after changing to a new bit, was damn hard to keep steady.

I figured I only have one chance to do it right, so I thought it would be best to ask. I had planned on using my circle jig with my dremel but because of the design, I can't get the jig to sit flush with the surface to be cut. What's the best method to cut a hole for 6.5" and 1" tweeter?

Thanks guys, I'll post pics when I am done, during this weekend.

That sounds like a good idea with the MDF rings underneath. Plus it'll give me a chance to use my circle jig. =D What material did you use to dampen? I should have some extra b-quiet ultimate laying around to use. Would that be OK to use on the underside?

Just with a cutting bit, I assume. And then drill pilot holes for screws to be used for mounting?