RamenNoodles

What does it matter. Fi doesnt have dealers either. AA and Fi are both owned by Scott and both run by him. Where do you live at? I know of a dealer in the mid east coast. And Steve himself will be selling them so you will be able to contact him for purchasing as well.

By the way, this 7kd was owned my Alan Dante himself. This is also the 16v version so it can be used for daily driving.

Basically i can tarde my Crunch GP3000D PLUS $400 cash for a Stetsom 7KD in almost perfect condition. Only problem is a slightly bend mounting tab. Right now I have a DVC 2 ohm 12" BTL to the GP3000D and want a nice, clean efficient amp. Next summer I plan to do a wall in my accord with 2 1ohm 18" BTLs to maybe this 7kd if the trade goes well. So for the time being, I will run the BTL off of the 7kd at 4ohms and still be running around 2500 rms. What do you all think about this trade one my end?

Why do you think that Nick uses them in his demo truck 6 havok 15s in a nissan hard body

Man that sticker is really nice. Wish my old school BTL had that lol

Hey there Scott or Nick. Today My 12" BTL that I purchased in late April started to smoke today. I have the subwoofer in a ported box around 3cuft to a Crunch GP3000D Pro. I was driving today and out of no where my subwoofer started to cut out and I thought that it was probably a wire coming loose or something so i just turned it down. Then I smell this awful burning smell and look back and the back seat of my car is being filled with a whitish smoke. I am assuming that somehow the voice coils burnt up. What would I need to do to have this fixed? A recone? And what does the FI warranty cover because I wasnt really pushing the subwoofer as hard as it could go. It was about half tilt when it started to cut out. Thanks guys!

And the amp will still turn on, but I unplugged the remote so its not powering on right now since there is no subwoofer.

Its just odd to me that 3000 rms will cook the voice coils because in many cases like steve meade, he pushes 4500-5000 rms to each of his and seem to be fine. I know he is in a whole different ball game then me but its just weird to me. Maybe I could have gotten some faulty parts?

It was just smoke coming from inside of the port. I dont think an amp would push smoke through the wires to the sub to make it come out of the port. Hot damn though, I really dont even play it full tilt since my new alt isnt in yet. But hell you never know with electronics. How much is a new recone total for a 12" BTL if I send it to you guys to do it. Im not trying to mess with that crap.

So this is my first build. Box was made by mobileman at CAF.com. 12" BTL Crunch GP3000D Pro 2.4F Cap - Coming out when I get two Kinetic 2000s Optima Red Top 1/0 wiring FatMat 1 layer in trunk, 2 on the lid Soon to be Iraggi 200 amp alt Big 3 New comps and amp (not sure exactly) Maybe a new sub/amp layout. Will probably go with 2 12" btls with 2 GP3000D but after electrical upgrade

I dont get why every single post you make has to be some sort of arseho comment. Just because people dont know as much as you or arent as skilled as you doesnt mean you have to put them down. Just because you are part of the SSA team doesnt mean you have to be a douche bag while doing it.

Hey all, Today I just got my 12" BTL and my Crunch GP3000D along with my custom box and I installed everything today and to be honest I am not impressed with this subwoofer at all. Like when the subwoofer hits, it sounds like it is bottoming out and I dont understand why. I use to have 2 12w6v2s to a JL 1000/1 and it was hitting WAY harder than my 12" BTL. I just met my friend who I sold my w6s to and he was running them to a Kenwood amp pushing 600rms to them and they were slamming compared to my BTL. I just am not impressed with the performance of the BTL at all. It cannot pick up anything high at all. I know it is a SPL sub, but I have read tons and tons of peoples reviews saying that it actually had decent clarity. I used my dB meter that I have and my best on the 12w6v2s was 147 no sound deadening whatsoever. Now I have my whole trunk competed in FatMat in 1 layer and 2 layer on my trunk. I did a test today and the best I got was 135 WTF?? Does anybody have any idea what is going on?

Ah so I will definitely lay off of that for now on. Any idea how my gains etc should be set? I will be at a show in parkville, MD so hopefully someone there can maybe help me tune it.

Im using the small piece that came with the amplifier through crunch. It is connected through a flat cat5 looking cable that plugs into the amplifier. It ranges from 0-18db. I keep it at 0 for just daily and about half way to 3/4 if I was to slam for a few seconds... Im hoping that is the remote gain.

Better, no. Different yes. Its definitely a change from the w6s. Sound quality, there is no match against the w6s. The BTL cant exactly pick up those nice highs. Dont get me wrong, I am definitely impressed with the BTL, its exactly what I wanted. Im definitely an SPL oriented listener and it definite produces those lows like I had hoped. I still definitely need a new alt and 2 bats to keep my volts up so for now I have to keep the bass boost at 1/4 in order to stay around 13.6 volts.

Yea I definitely am impressed with this single woofer no doubt. Its just as loud as them for only having 1 cone area compared to two but it definitely will pierce your ears and drain the volts way quicker than the w6s ever would. I really am excited for the way things have come along. Just got my bass boost mounted today and all the wires tucked and zip tied.

Well I got the box turned so the port and sub are facing the trunk and all I can say is WOW. The sound is ten times better now. All of the notes are way more developed than before and all I can say at this point is thank you guys for the help. I still need some tweaking and tuning but for now, everything is great! Right now, im LOW on money because of college. This was definitely a budget build which is why I went with the equipment I did. Middle of may is when I will have a job for the summer and the first thing to come will be a 200 HO Iraggi Alt and BIG3 with 1/0awg. Then two kinetik HC2000s will be in store next.

This is a ROUGH drawing of how chit is wired, any questions ask me and i will explain.

Well the sub is wired to 1 Ohm. I have stock electrical besides an optima red top. I have a tsunami wiring kit 1/0awg. All in a 2000 accord coupe with the sub and port facing toward the cabin. These are the builders specs. Ok, here is the design for you. 14.5"H x 24"W x 24"D, 3.809^3ft gross vol. Slot port, 13" x 3" x 27.8"Long@35Hz. After all displacement, 2.833^3ft net yield. Built from 3/4" Hi-Composite Premium UDF board. Seams matched and double sealed. Reinforced baffle board. Dado cut end caps. Seams fastened with Tite Bond glue, 1-5/8" counter sunk drywall screws, and 2" Ribbed steel fasteners. Walls fully braced and tied in with Maranti Hardwood bracing for Zero wall flex and 100% cabinet integrity. 45 degree boards in the corners to kill standing sound waves and to add extra strength to the corner seams. All internal port edges are beveled. High Quality, Gold plated binding post with nylon heads. Gray Muzicon carpet. White baffle board. Port painted black And this is NOT a TermLab so its not exactly term lab numbers, I think it runs a little high.

If you really want this sub and no one locally can do it like a shop. Your best bet might just be to purchase a new one. But like you said you just wanted to recone it to have it around so might not be a good investment for an extra sub.

How do you figure this amp is chitty? Have you ever used this amp before? Read up on reviews of this. Nothing but great reviews of it. Not one bad one that I have heard so far. The world record for SPL outside of the vehicle was set by using these. I have one and I am truly happy with it. Hooked up to my Fi BTL 12" and its great.

I got it for $450 shipped brand new. http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAudio/Pr...ProductID=18538