Nikuk

alrighty, I'll have to pick up some more MDF for testing. Looking at the specs You'd sent me, and these specs here, she is definately an HT oriented driver. But, there have been a few of those in the past that became popular in the Car Audio realm as well. Hell, the TC Custom "Uberwoofer" is an HT driver. Looking forward to getting hands on here, maybe I'll be able to get a powerful enough home amplifier to wire this up in house as well by then. -Nick

Yes, this morning. Will look at it tonight and try to catch You on aim. Standing on the drivers side, looking into the driver rear corner of the engine bay there is a big grommet (~6" diam). cut an x and shove it through. You're going to want to drop the lower trim panel under the driver side dash to make it easier to reach in. If You peel the carpet back you'll expose the hard styrofoam foot rest. I pulled that out and ran the wire under there.. The driver door sill trim snaps up, but there is a plastic spike that pulls right out - located near the hood release. The BPillar molding can be a pain, roll both windows down, reach into the truck from the outside (left through frt window, right through rear window), wrap Your meat paws around it and tug (straight away). Once it's loose, pull it up and angle it to get it out. The rear doorsill trim pops right up, but is a PITA to seat back down properly. There is no good place to hide the wire running into the cargo area, so I snipped a small slit in the carpet right where the seats fold, and ran the wire under there. This can be cumbersome cause of the 'chopped matt padding' that they use under all of the carpet back there. You'll see what I mean. Take Your time drilling the ground, alot of the rear is thicker guage sheetmetal. Anything else? Oh, aftermarket HU? GET THE Harness adaptor. I hardwired mine 'cause the adaptor was like $60 or something ridiculous. Well, it woulda been worth it. lol. If You don't: You'll have to run a 12v ign. to the fuse box under the pass rear seat bottom; you'll lose the vss volume adjustments, You'll lose your door / key-in / headlight / etc chimes as well. Little things, but they are good to have Oh, and the orion 8002, 8004 chassis's fit perfectly into the center storage cubby on the floor of the cargo area. The CDT Satnet Xovers fit nicely into the storage pod on the drvrs side in the cargo area. umm, iirc max dimensions are 46w (tween the "wheelwells"), 17h (to the window line) or 21 h (to the seatbacks), and 33 deep (from top of seatback to tailgate). For SPL, DO NOT HAVE SOMEONE HOLD THE BACK WINDOW during burps. that chit lost me 1.8ish dB's no matter what. lol. Umm, i've tried alot of equipment, components, and little things w.my truck. so ask. Oh, if You try to put components in the stock location, you'll shallow mounts or a spacer ring. most 6.5's I've fitted are too deep and the window track hits the motor. the stock tweet is 1/2" iirc. Dont cut up the doors if you dont have to, replacement panels are HARD to find and around $300 each.

quote from austin power...

You sure You dont have a little emo in you? No? Would You like some in You?

njccbflo at gmail btw

I want to make love to it. how much for an hour?

kent, email me the bb6 file, I'll take a look at it tonight when i make it home.

top

that actually got me laugh out loud.

ROFL

that just drips emosity..

no can do, at work.

roflcopter rofl site cumquat

:word: Sorry J. Turbo part sort of.

What I generally do: For example: 12" diam. 8" deep sub that weighs 30lbs or more. **Get a 14x14x12 box, put down a few layers of cardboard -or- a piece of mdf at the bottom. **Place a few heavy foam bricks, or tightly rolled pieces of cardboard, or even wood blocks along the side edges of the box, effectively making a 'box' around the motor. **Wrap the sub in bubble wrap and put it in the box. **fill upto the top with peanuts. **top it off with a few more pieces (14x14) of heavy cardboard on top. **Tape it up at every seam with "strapping tape" (it has string run through it). Every sub that I've shipped has been shipped like this. Well, there were 1 or 2 that I had UPS pack for me, so I can't account for those... but the other 25 have been. Everything from 12" Infinities (20 lbs) to 15" MT's (67lbs). so far, as far as I know, they've all been alright. X^13016540654601604.8 -Nick

now I have to figure out what I'm selling to pay for the rad. and fmic I just bought.

ASS*HOLE ASS-HOLE ASS/HOLE A SSHOLE AS SHOLE SMALLBROWNSPHINCTERTHATPOOHCOMESOUTOF take that censor.

i'm an incredible arseho.

i agree, i just post the links here for the mod's since "this has become the backroom" lol

Glad You got them okay, I was starting to worry that the post offices had lost them.. -nick

so we agree? CDT is no better or worse then any other company with regards to it's "marke-neering"? But in the end, You hate them and I'll tolerate them? So, um, back to the original poster's question...

http://www.caraudio.com/vb/showthread.php?...d=1#post1157028 This'll get big.

sorry

You... that's not what I asked. I think everyone know's that I'm not a fan of CDT. But I'll use them if the install calls for it. Do i buy the center, front, rear, exterior stage extras? Hellll no. Kiss & Make out?