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Everything posted by tezin87
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I used 1-5/8'' drywall screws and pre-drilled all holes. Minimal splitting, only if I got too close to the corners or too close to the edge of the board.
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I'm thinking about picking up a pair of those maybe at the end of the summer. It's hard to get the good stuff though when you're on a college budget. How hard was it to remove that back trim with the dremel? If I did that in my ranger I'd free up a ton more space.
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i finally decided on what im going to get and have some questions
tezin87 replied to zucc's topic in General Audio
All you do is take out whatever speakers you already have in your truck, and place the adapter plate over the stock location. The adapter plate has holes to mount it to your door that match up where you used to mount your stock 5x7. Then it has new holes for you to mount your 6.5's to the plate. I had to make two extra new holes to make the PG's fit so you might have to do that, but all you do is take a small drill bit and drill through the new speakers mounting hole and through the adapter plate. Its real, real easy. -
i finally decided on what im going to get and have some questions
tezin87 replied to zucc's topic in General Audio
Set aside at least an hour...hahaha, and read this. You'll learn a lot about your truck from this guy. http://www.soundsolutionsaudio.com/forum/i...showtopic=17992 -
i finally decided on what im going to get and have some questions
tezin87 replied to zucc's topic in General Audio
Components aren't too hard to tune in. I'm actually looking for a new set myself. I bought the PG RSD 6.5'' set because everyone was hyping them up. They sounded good, don't get me wrong, but one side blew after 5 days. No idea how it happened, could have been my fault, could have been the speakers fault. I drive a ford ranger reg cab and here's what I used to be able to fit 6.5'' components..... http://cgi.ebay.com/6x8-5x7-to-6-Speaker-A...1742.m153.l1262 It might take a little modifying with a dremel drill (very simple) to fit your mids in there, but so worth it. I'd still recommend the phoenix golds, hell they were only $87 shipped. Even having only one side working it still sounds a chit-ton better than my kenwood excelon coaxials I had in there before. -
I hate sitting so close to the steering wheel....I've been doing it for 5 years now. But I'm sure it is worth it with what you've got behind your seats. Let me know how you like those rainbows once you get them all dialed in. One side of my pg rsd's blew after less than a week of play time and I'm looking for a new comp. set.
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i finally decided on what im going to get and have some questions
tezin87 replied to zucc's topic in General Audio
- I would ditch the coaxials and pick up a set of components. You can get some for fairly cheap, especially a used set. - What size Q? Make sure to get dual 2 ohm. - Awesome choice on the amps, big 3 idea, and deadening idea. - You might need to replace your starter battery, a Powermaster xs1200 would be fine ($160 shipped). - Get a kicker hyperflex 1/0 kit. (about $100) and run the power 1/0 and ground 1/0 to the distribution blocks in the kit, and run the 4awg from the blocks to the amps. That is what I did and works great. -
That is looking awesome....great attention to detail.
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I suggest you have someone on here build you a ported box. That would cost around $225 shipped most likely. And instead of spending the money on two subs, just get one 12'' Icon and port it. I've read on here many times about people putting an Icon 12'' under the rear seat in an extended cab silverado (although I think they were newer models) and absolutely loving it. Talk to Mrray13 or Mr.Cabinetry. They know the deal. box- $225 Icon- 250 SAE100d- 300 TOTAL= $775
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I cut out a thin piece of cardboard that was a little longer than the radius of the cut. Then I secured the cardboard strip onto the baffle with a screw where I wanted the center of the cut-out to be. Then I measured the radius from where the nail secured the cardboard to the baffle and drilled a hole through the cardboard big enough for a pencil tip to fit through. Next I backed the screw out a little bit, just enough for the cardboard the rotate freely....put the pencil through the cardboard and drew a circle. Worked perfectly. I hope that wasn't too confusing.
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for anyone that looks at this ( I don't think there are many), my passenger side mid and tweeter aren't working. I've only had them hooked up for about a week and I noticed they weren't working yesterday. I uninstalled them and tried hooking them up directly to the amp and they still didn't work. I'm pissed.
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Ok so this is my first time trying to build an enclosure on my own so it will probably end up looking a little rough. I started cutting yesterday and some of the pieces didnt turn out so well so I'm re-doing a few today. I will have some pics up later tonight when I finish. The enclosure will be right around 1ft^3 with a 3inch aeroport after all displacements. I'll be picking up either a 10'' Icon or 10'' bl when I get some more money. I'm looking for a daily pounder that can replace two 12'' kappa perfects that were sealed. Do the flared precision ports need a special type of 90 degree elbow in order to make a bend or can I just use any old elbow?
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thanks I'll send you one right now
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My xs1200 came in yesterday and I'm putting it in today. But the positive and negative terminals are on different sides compared to my factory batterys terminals. And if I rotate the 1200 and have the terminals on the correct side, they become too far away for my factory wires to connect. How do I go about solving this problem? Also, it didn't come with new posts for the factory wires to connect to, do I just bring the battery to Pep Boys or whatever and see if they have posts that will fit?
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My speakers are acting up too. I drove 5hrs yesterday with no problems but when I started my truck this morning the passenger side tweeter and mid aren't working. I briefly checked the connections to the crossover and to the amp and everything seems fine. The driver side works fine too. I hope next time I start it, they come back on like your guys'.
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Scottie, I ordered the terminals you suggested Tuesday morning from the xs website and the order status still says pending. Is that normal or should I get in contact with someone to see what is going on with my order?
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I've never had the pleasure to use second skin but I've read great things. I used raamat on my truck this past week and it was real easy to use and worked really well. Stay away from dynamat, go with either second skin or raamat.
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what suburb do you live in? i'm in homewood (if you know where that is) and would love to hear some nightshades sometime. goodluck with the problem though.
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haha yeah, my camera is almost as hard on batteries as that JL amp!
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I have two Infinity Kappa Perfect 12'' for sale for $150. They sounded great sealed.
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http://reaudio.com/speaker_box/LPort_Box_Calc.html
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I agree with the idea of getting a nightshade. I've read nothing but great things about them. I would rule out JL purely because of price and customer service. But either way, Sundown or Ascendant, you are going to get a great sub with unreal customer service.
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That is almost 10ft^3 before port or sub displacement. You should be able to fit both in there ported fairly easily and it is way more than enough room if you are using them sealed.
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I have put over a dozen different set-ups in my reg cab ranger, the latest one being a 10'' Fi bl over this past weekend. The one 10 ported gets louder than 2-12's sealed that I've had in there before. Trust me when I say this, it is all in the box. You will not, and I repeat will not, be able to fit two 12'' L7s in there unless you do a blowthrough. I had two 10'' L7s in there and they sounded absolutely horrible because I didn't have enough airspace. Just pick one 10 ported or one 12 sealed and put it in the proper box and youll be impressed. Go to "build logs" and check out "regular cab ranger build."
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I think you should tell him too. Wouldn't you want to know if you got screwed over like he did?