lithium

just roll that box oakteg21. Quentin has built way more boxes then i have so i trust his design.

I have room for a second mayhem yes, but I wouldn't know how to make a box for two, I know it would be a L slot port it would be a walled one side to side like | | but I wouldn't know the cutout for one, do you? /> Wouldn't be a L port I mean if you cant design a box then i doubt this install is going to go well. take a step back before you damage some expensive gear.

adding power wont increase output dramatically. waste of money adding another amp, imo

why run so much power on a sub that wont be able to handle it? your not likely to notice the extra output.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BXiMqrXt6XU

when did the new tabs at the top show up?

what are lowpass and subsonic setting?

yes, trying moving the box around. change the direction the port and subs fire and you'll likely hear a difference. all make sure the port isn't obstructed (firing too close to a wall).

according to the calculator i used the box is tuned about 33hz. I'm guessing the acoustics of the vehicle can account for the perception of higher tuning. just EQ down the peak until you have the desired frequency response.

how are you determining that its peaking 38hz? by ear in the vehicle?

wont be a problem. i dont run components myself, never heard anything over some old pg rsd (~100), so i'll leave that to someone else. i would recommend you visit some local shops and listen to things on the boards. for amps, i've seen some really nice boston acoustic amps on sale recently. also check out sds for deadening. your budget should cover cdl tiles, mlv, and ccf for the doors at the very least.

how much space do you have OP? could go with a 15"

how long has it been since you contacted him? i know he's very busy and misses or gets behind a bit. if you dont hear from him in a day or two then send another email, perhaps he missed it.

i wouldn't waste money on them. leave them disconnected. proper install upfront will sound fine to those sitting in the back seat.

you can set each band to any of these "20, 25, 31.5, 40, 50, 63, 80, 100, 125, 160, 200, 250, 315, 400, 500, 630, 800, 1k, 1.25k, 1.6k, 2k, 2.5k, 3.15k, 4k, 5k, 6.3k, 8k, 10k, 12.5k, 16k, 20k" frequencies. for an alpine 9855, for example, they limit you to a small range of frequencies per band.

seems like a successor to the 785usb. shame they didn't keep the l/r independent parametric eq.

clipping isn't necessarily a problem. only exceeding thermal or mechanical limits will damage sub.

no need to amp the rear speakers. i'm not sticking your list, that's ridiculous. http://www.sonicelectronix.com/cat_m94_i26_boston-acoustics-2-channel-amplifiers.html 2200 on the sub and either a 2200 or 2150 on the front speakers. personally i'd sell the front speakers and buy a set of comps.

new sub from dayton. looks nice http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?partnumber=295-512&utm_source=Retail&utm_medium=Email_Newsletter&utm_content=295-512&utm_campaign=email010313

nothing wrong with using the factory headunit if it has the features you need. you would want to find out if there's a factory amp between the hu and speaker. if so it may be possible to tap low level signal between the hu and factory amp, this would allow you to skip the loc all together. i'll draw a diagram .

example.