lithium

budget and list of essential features?

looks like you can get some on ebay. google tinsel leads. what are you sealing to the cone? i would assume you solder the lead to the coil and use some epoxy keeps things secured to the vc former, which would keep pressure off the solder joint.

bit of spam tonight

i assume you're conducting these observations with the front stage disabled? where are the mid's high passed? could be cancellation issue. any rear speakers? some ideas: 1. temporarily move the box to the back seat and test the response. this could rule out a situation involving the trunk. although, i don't know what the solution would be. 2. remove speaker from the rear deck. 3.you could build a ~1 cu ft sealed box and play around with that. easier to test orientations and so forth. 4.what is the high and low pass xover settings for the sub (what range of frequencies are you depending on the sub to reproduce)? perhaps the car has a steep resonance in the sub 50hz range. so what your hearing is a large peak 30-50hz not a null over 50 hz. or its a combination of both.

single wall and bracing should be fine.

is bass boost off?

i suspect that buying 12s, later selling them. and upgrading to new/used 15s would be cheaper than reconing 12s to 15s. this should be easy to figure out a head of time if you know the cost of everything.

Dangerous? As in, higher chance of rolling the truck on a turn? lots of extra weight in the vehicle, no use of rear view mirror, and you're not an experienced driver so the potential of shit going wrong is pretty high (no offense).

would it be very economical to even do that? you could probably sell the 12s and buy 15s potentially cheaper. any reason for buying new subs in the first place?

even with all the suspension mods a wall sounds dangerous as fuck.

The ferrite version's resonse looks close enough from 200-1,500 and are 1/2 as much. looks like a better buy the titanium is a bit of fib from TB. its plastic with a metal foil applied to the face.

i use these, http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?partnumber=264-848. tb w4 1337. they got fucking expensive though. what about the exodus anarchy? probably a waste to use in a 3 way.

What is OTG? My goal is to play music and use the tablet as a GPS and maybe tether it to my phone for internet radio etc. I have seen the dash docks with the charger/usb built in and I am assuming they are using USB for signal to the amplifiers? Will I need a line driver? edit: If I want to run 3 rca outputs to a 4 channel and a subwoofer channel what would be the best route without degrading sound quality a ton? Some type of rca crossover? I would think a device with 1 rca in and 3 or 4 rca out would be perfect. on the go. If you want to do what you are doing you will either need to root and use a custom Rom or deal with battery power. Plugging in a yen source and charging is not part of android. Of course the isuck products don't even have a port so they really won't work. Alright, so lets say I decide to use the audio jack and when I am charging the device it won't play music as well? I don't have any problems rooting a device I just don't quite understand why I would need to, it depends what you're trying to do with it.

not necessarily. I dont think m5 could do what he's planning with an ipad. software stuff. but if you just want to use gps and play music than an ipad would be fine.

I'm using TB w4's and dayton nd20 in my kicks. really nice drivers. I just moved the tweeter down to the kicks yesterday so I haven't played with processing much but i've noticed some improvements. looking forward to seeing your midbass install. curious why you went with the daytons over say the peerless sls 6.5?

should be fine

it should be the same everywhere. what i was saying above is that you shouldn't put all your faith into what the meter is telling you.

what are you using them for?

ouch, didn't mean to rustle your jimmies guys. my apologies.

quick question. sls 8's in my doors. i usually add lots of non-hardening clay around the baffle but the clay tends to go to shit after a few months. any reason not to try duct seal instead? roughly the same density as clay and its cheap.

an idiot who can't control a volume knob.

measure the h x w x l of the transmission hump as if it's a rectangular box and subtract that from 4.7 cu ft. unless you're planning to fiberglass it. than i would assume about halve that space is lost.