lithium

i tried searching for some builds. only thing i found were some idiots with enclosures sitting on the rear seat. imagine that flying around your cabin in a wreck..

what's under those rear seats? do they fold up? shitty pics are fine. those that you found online dont help too much.

that sounds ridiculous. dsp for what? boosting the low end because you designed a shitty enclosure?

Exactly. If you challenge them, then you're %100 wrong. This whole thread is dancing in circles. The tools used to do these tests are published. It's not like they're hiding... If you're so worried about certain things, go fucking look them up. Also, it wasn't just a "clamp test" But lets only focus on one aspect of this whole damn thing. God forbid we open our eyes wider This shit reminds me about the argument over linear vs progressive spiders. Shit was completely ridiculous. You guys focus on one little aspect. the burden of proof is always on those who made the claim. in this case the person who conducted the testing. he is responsible for providing accurate information. in simple terms, the results of his clamp test are invalid because they are not complete results (and any conclusions or comparisons he makes are not only false but misleading). this should be very easy to understand.

Going through I don't think they meant you were bashing the company/nick but others. I don't see how they're being sarcastic. Impious, tirefryr and shizzzon were trying to explain. M5 was the only one being sarcastic and was only doing it because tenacious is annoying and ignorant. I don't understand why you guys don't listen to these guys... Zero tact and constantly talking in circles rather than being direct. Discredits whatever they see fit without truly explaining why everyone else should discredit. They act as though they're %100 right, but fail to fully disclose why they are correct and someone else is incorrect. They scream tolerances and calibrations yet never give any real numbers. They never ask what the given tools tolerances are and if they have been calibrated or when the last time they were calibrated. Just because you have technical training behind you and some real world exercise, doesn't mean you have the right to discredit everyone else. It's easy to sit behind a computer and seem all so intelligent. There's a common factor of why a lot of people don't like this forum. Maybe you should go and seek some education and then you might understand just how much money, time, equipment, etc... goes into testing, measuring, certifying etc. Right now it seems that all these guys are "talking circles rather then being direct" but you clearly do not understand this subject. Once you go out and find the necessary knowledge, then you will realize how right these few guys are. Until then, argue on and have fun!! I more than understand this subject. This shit is simple, yet you tech team dick riders and "tech team" want to make this complicated. Maybe you should take some laxative and the rest of the tech team to get rid of the bull shit you guys are full of. I swear you guys could ruin a wet dream because one of her nails was .05mm too long. You understand the subject? How about you present your credentials? Perhaps you can share with the forum how to properly conduct amplifier testing? Thats right, you can't even begin to describe how to conduct any scientific testing, can you? Keep your childish comments to yourself. this thread was really informative until you guys got your little feelings hurt.

that dead zone as you called it is where the amplifier is producing its maximum (for the given signal). turn the gain past that is just clipping the signal, which is why it is not louder past that point.

the distortion you're hearing is probably clipping. but that doesn't mean its damaging the subwoofer. if you were pushing the sub too hard you would bottom it out mechanically or the coil would get smelly. from you description, it sounds like you figured out how it works. the amp sets the maximum and the remote adjusts between 0 and that point. i'm guessing different amps have different implementations of remote gain. if you can find the manual it should explain how it works.... hopefully it does work how you've described it.

reading is tough some times lol. cutting the floor out of the truck isn't a good idea at all. a blow through perhaps, if you dont care about the value of the vehicle... do you need both back seats? would you consider a removable box that sits behind the driver or passenger seat? my dad has a 12" in a sealed box sitting behind his center console for example. you could perhaps go larger if you dont have passengers very often. is it possible raise the height of your rear seats to make room for subs under them (popular mod for many trucks)? unless a forum member has some experience we would probably needs some pic and measurements to help you out. as well as a description of what you're trying to achieve.

regular cab?

need a cap for that. 50 faradzzz should do

RCA shielding/routing also has a lot to do with noise. Without shelling out quite a bit on RCAs, they're not going to block much if any noise. agreed- i am also running Knu Koncepts cheapest rca's. i run the power and signal as far apart as feasable... dont worry about running rca's close the power wire.

depends how they are set with respect to the amp gain. do you hear distortion? if not then its fine.

trying to help you troubleshoot the issue sean is asking. one problem could be xover settings. try turn the hpf up. if you're having noise issues address those first. throwing money at some cresendo shit will not fix any of that.

so you're running both sets of speakers on the 2 channel? what is the high pass set at? disable the sub while testing a higher xover point.

what processing do you have?

they recommend 1.8 - 2.5 cu ft. maybe drop down to a 10" if you dont have the space. or get creative with the design

i should have check the ac voltage where the amp is cutting off. i was testing with an Icon free air (because i cant access the amp with the enclosure installed) and it wasn't pushing the sub anywhere close to full stroke.

voltage is fine. its cutting out way before the amp is producing big wattzzz

there is some ground loop noise that i dont remember being there before. this hobby is a pain in the ass

pretty sure i didn't do that but now i want to go out and double check. this is in my brothers car and i set it up a few years ago so it was fine for a while. just picked a shitty sub amp or my bro was pushing it too hard.

subwoofer amplifier enters protection at a certain volume. over-current protection maybe? I'll have to pull it and check the output transistors i think.

damn. i thought the auto leveling thing audi does was cool but thats much more impressive.

reminds me of the batmobile