lithium

more subjectivity. come on guys..

model them and see for yourself. a lot of subjectivity has been thrown around here

how much is left for the speakers?

no reason to frankenstein a woofer to meet those goals with so many subs already on the market. vehicle acoustics and enclosure design should be the area of focus.

needs a bit of formatting

doubt you can fit a SA 8 ported in that space. i would look at a 10 sealed. i think a dcon would be a good option on that power.

why are you even looking at the Q's when you should be looking at something like the Bl's. why would the bl lack low end? have you modelled any of these subs?

when you're chasing 1/4 a db on the meter may be.

you need to go to sounddeadenershowdown.com and read everything.

don's methods are pretty easy for cdl tiles because you're not covering 100% of the panel. domestic vehicles should be pretty straight forward for disassembly. even my brother's sentra was very simple. you want to replace all the clips so nothing is loose (rattles). deadening the cabin is definitely something you want to do all in one go.

no reason to make it that complicated. you can get tons of output from the front doors. the methods are just more complicated in terms of install and tuning.

that's a pretty large budget for a front stage. way more than i spent on my install which included a 3way active front stage. starting off with installation i think you need to get at least the doors treated with cld tiles, mlv, and ccf per the methods on sound deadener showdown. deadening the rest of the vehicle would make sense as well. perhaps go so far as treating the floors, doors, etc with mlv (or similar barrier) if the vehicle has particularly high road noise, engine noise, etc. lower noise floor = high perceived output from the entire system. there might be some other techniques used by the spl guys. I've seen shit like strengthening the roof with fiberglass (think it was quentin's build log). from what i remember your previous system was just some cheap comps or coaxs amped up but not installed well (no deadening or tuning)? Based on that I think it would be best to start with a decent pair of components. nothing expensive (perhaps used) set like what you can find in the SSA store (IA or sundown comps). The idea would be to install the comps correctly, learn to tune and adjust them until you squeeze all the performance out of them as possible. Next evaluate what you like and dislike about them. Then you can come back to us with some ideas as to what improvements need to be done. And hopefully by then you have enough experience to do something more technical (like the active installs some of the other guys have started). for the front stage amp, no reason to spend 500 bucks. i would just grab a big ass 4 channel for around 200 bucks. i've been planning to downsize my collection of 2 channels to a pair of ppi p900.4's for example. super small amp and a ton of power. there are some other options but the ppi (or the other models which use the same design) are really popular right now for a reason.

from the other thread. Don't waste your money like that Not worth the tag? I just read some reviews. I'm not too sure about the pricing between the series', and which line i'd choose. Alternatives? Something that would work well in a high output two way is what i'm after, but I don't want just loud. I'm tired of having just blaring, tinny scratchy bullshit ass sound. I am front stage retarded.

dont you fuse close to the amp for those that do not have internal fuses?

Oh god I hate posting from my phone. There is a thread for my front stage already. My dumb ass just forgot about it. Got sad and stopped posting for a while when I lost my truck. if you want to resurrect that thread for front stage stuff i'll delete my post and put it over there.

budget? this would include money for deadening the front doors and the front stage amp. edit: maybe another thread since this is titled substage haha

wish the sweep worked like this on funcgen

just tried it on my phone. works

ex anarchy is 25mm peak to peak but can play far higher than 250hz, its also an xbl design. peerless sls 6.5 would be another idea. i'd just run a single sls 8 per side. your doors will give out before the woofer.

it was dead long before the tread began. you cant beat physics for the reason m5 pointed out.

zaphaudio did some testing on cold speakers http://www.zaphaudio.com/temp.html

doesn't windows 8.1 put the desktop back in? i was using something called windows 8 classic shell before which does the same thing. though the search function didn't' work like win 7.

have you looked into the driver on sites like partsexpress or madisound? i would give zaphaudio's reviews and measurements a look as well. zaphaudio.com

ya power wasn't great and the suspension is really floaty. but i can buy something fun to drive when i'm making money.