lithium

the only way to establish what the difference would be to model them. if you dont have a PC post the the correct t/s specs and i or someone else can do it for you. establishing a comparison based on opinion is worthless UNLESS that individual ran the same subs on the same power in the same enclosures and in the same vehicle you're installing this in. then maybe that persons opinion would be worth a shit. why the ZED audio amps? great amps but a system like this is just asking for theft problems. why not stick to cheap power, you won't hear a difference.

Didn't know people used recipes for soup http://www.foodnetwork.com/recipes/tyler-florence/roasted-tomato-soup-recipe.html *I didn't read any instructions on that recipe but the ingredients are fine. Do you have a good immersion blender or a real blender? If not, you won't be making tomato soup that makes you go, Ahhhh. i'll get a blender if it means good soup.

dumb cooking question.. anyone have a good tomato soup recipe?

you have to connect via usb and launch an app to make changes. minidps.com

jumping from coax installs to an active setup with a minidsp is a pretty big leap. also, a minidps is not really for a beginner in my opinion. it would be really great if you could go with an active capable hu. maybe hide a single din unit in your glove box? having those controls upfront is something i really miss now that i've done a minidps install. having to grab my laptop just to make some changes is a huge pain.

headunit? do you have 4 channels of amplification? does the budget include sound deadening for the doors. (i would start here and recommend contacting sds)

whatever fits will be fine. typically people try to aim for the higher end of the range. and make sure that is enough port area.

the rattles should be address with CCF (closed cell foam) regardless. no reason that removing the stock sub and/or rear speakers would cause rattles that couldn't be address easily with some isolating material like ccf. of the other options. a correctly designed bandpass box firing through the arm rest would also be great. the fact that a shop cannot address this scares me.

you can probably add an aux in unit. google it.

have you taken care of sound deadening yet?

Got an e-mail from Don last night, he has b-stock CLD tiles. nice! don is great guy. he threw in a ton of extra ccf when there was a mix up with my order last year.

stick to the recommended

tablet stuff ordered. went with the joycon unit for steering wheel controls. still need root the nexus 7. also need to order deadening

i think the stp gold might be more comparable to don's stuff. you're aiming for ~25% coverage with the best product you can get.

read don's section on the cdl tiles.

it doesn't mass load the panel.

weight of the cdl doesn't matter so much i believe. i think the important specs are thickness of the butyl, thickness of the constraining layer (alum), and the adhesive. if you read the don's section on cdl tiles you might get a good idea for what to look for.

those graphs next to the products are hilarious.

I think there won't be any problems sourcing closed cell foam. I am trying to save on shipping cost as the material needed is quite heavy. In other words, it has to be local. Thank you for that. I might crab their vibration dampening products, but I am not sure about their sound isolation products. They marked polyethylene foam as their sound absorbent product, but I can't find it's weight anywhere. And it's has self adhesive, combine that with the word "foam" and I am not sure it's the right thing for the purpose. Another company I found was STP, but I am not convinced about their products either. http://stp-distribution.com/en/products/ They market products 10 times lighter than SSD MLV to be their noise insulation. For example : http://stp-distribution.com/en/products/sound-insulation/stp-spl/ Weight: 0.37 kg / m² MLV is 4.88 kg/ m² http://stp-distribution.com/en/products/sound-absorption/stp-vbt/ Almost 4 times thicker than MLV and more than 50% less weight. I know that air is a good sound insulation, but where else is my mistake in not believing in these products? the effectiveness of a barrier material provides is based on the weight per area. a light barrier will block some high frequencies but low frequencies will pass through. for example, if you have a car with a rear seat (not backed with metal or plastic) you don't lose much bass when you dont lay them down. for absorption you need very thick material to actually absorb anything in the audible spectrum. thats why you rarely see them used (correctly). SDS's thinsulate is the only absorber i've heard that is worth using in a car. even then you're mainly only using it between the headliner and roof. this article seems decent at explaining stuff... the quarter wavelength section explains why these thin foam products fail to absorb much of anything. i'm not familiar with their products but if they have something with a similar lb/ft^2 or the metric equivalent that is what you need to find. those products will not do shit compared to mlv or anything else with a similar spec. edit: something on closed cell foam, i think Don mentions that some inferior products will compress over time

if you have room in the bed of the truck for a large box then use both subs. an extra 3db is noticeable. no such thing as underpowering bandpass would be ideal for keeping the blow through cut small port shape doesn't make a difference assuming the box was designed correctly

Looks like i'm cutting the door card to fit the sls 8's as well.

Anyone else running/have run kick panels in a W body? I'm pretty sure the hole vents through the frame but not completely sure. I've got a ton of space in the century so maybe i'll go back to sealed kicks.

lol. nothing wrong with either.