lithium

or just copy the url and click the image button in the post window.

http://www.sounddeadenershowdown.com/ some recommended reading

have you considered a ported 10? an icon perhaps. does the xcon come in a 10?

I meant that I have never heard a Dayton driver in person. I have heard of the company. I do a lot of research before purchasing anything, and I did come across the Dayton drivers, both the Ultimax and the HO. I'd rather base my purchase off of experience from others than specs alone. The specs may sound great, but doesn't mean it will sound great. there are plenty of shitty subs with good reviews.. speakers just do as they're told. and modeling is about as close to an objective comparison you'll ever get.

good deal on the amp. i'd probably just take a chance on the sundown or IA components from the ssa store over anything for mb quarts. but you should also consider budgeting for some sound deadening in the doors. install will determine the performance of the speakers regardless of what gear you choose.

so no IB then. strange that you have heard of CSS and not Dayton. Dayton is probably more well known to home audio folks.

Exactly, he got a increase of 132W eventhough through calculations he should only gain about 55W. yes you lose less power with more/larger gauge wire but a simple understanding of physics already proves that. however, his measurement is completely worthless with reporting accuracy.

if you drive a sedan but want to avoid a large box and you need some low end extension i would consider going infinite baffle. here is the full spec page for the css driver. looks like a good driver but i dont know anything about it http://creativesound.ca/pdf/SDX12.pdf another idea if you're going the sealed route is the dayton ultimax. http://www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-um12-22-12-ultimax-dvc-subwoofer-2-ohms-per-coil--295-512 plug some specs into winisd or some other modeling program and see what they can do. if you want to see what an infinite baffle setup could look like plug in a fi ib3 15" (10-15 cu ft sealed box).

i'd just stick to the hu and a set of coax or components

you can calculate power loss with some basic math.

100 watts isn't significant.

A short wire can conduct more than one of the same thickness, but longer. science is fun http://hyperphysics.phy-astr.gsu.edu/hbase/electric/resis.html#c2

I was just clarifying why 95honda was saying. if an amp is designed to draw enough current to warrant a larger gauge power wire or a second input then it would be there. if you go down to the power/voltage loss demo you can learn about how power loss works. http://www.bcae1.com/wire.htm

2 runs of power to the rear > distro > single short run to the amp

good luck with the build. best way to go about it out is to install something and figure out where its lacking. making it complicated from the start just makes that process of improvement harder.

being different doesn't make it a good idea. boosting isn't a good idea either. you're worried about a very narrow range of frequencies for no particular reason.

if you cant figure it out with math/geometry may be drawing it with sketchup or a similar program would help you visualize it.

nothing much to say. decide how much space to give up

its subsonic, the range does frm 15hz to 50hz on my amp, there is no off button, do i just leave it to 15hz? yep thats fine. subsonic and infrasonic mean the same thing. the prefixes infra and sub are interchangeable.

its an ios game created by some guy in vietnam. its not really clear why the creator took it off store but he was apparently making about 50,000 $usd PER DAY just in ad revenue. Maybe he couldn't handle the fame.. or there could be a cultural reason that probably wouldn't make sense to us. http://www.theverge.com/2014/2/8/5393208/flappy-bird-creator-says-hes-pulling-the-game-offline-tomorrow

sounds like an install issue

there isn't a midbass setup in existence that could keep up with that substage (that fits in a car). go ahead and try the comp set. install it properly with sound deadening and let us know if its enough.

oops i got beat to the punch

welcome to the forum. hate to say it but there's so much misunderstanding here. where to start... 1. no such thing as SQL. i swear there's a post explaining these definitions somewhere. SQ = reproduction of sound accurate to the source material. SPL = raw output. what you probably mean is that you're looking for a decent sounding subwoofer that can get loud. which isn't particularly hard to find. building the correct enclosure is where most people fuck it up. All the jazz about ground pounding comes down to enclosure design. 2. punchiness and speaker size is an old car audio myth that never dies. 3. if you haven't guessed by now, running those two subs together would not accomplish your goal.

If the parameters are accurate, they can be useful. However they often aren't accurate, and even if they are accurate, will change significantly as the suspension loosens up. Personally I'm more concerned with SPL at this point in my life. At my listening levels, it's impossible to discern small imperfections in sound. I can understand your side of the argument, but it simply doesn't apply so much to my listening habits as it does your own. why would any reputable company publish inaccurate specs? I was going to post something showing how you're constructing a straw man argument to defend your position but I think that would be lost on you. The fact of the matter is, assuming the T/S specs were measured correctly, we can predict how a woofer will behave. Its physics. You would be surprised. Side note, most of these "reputable companies" nowadays pay a buildhouse to do everything... There are very few companies doing a lot on their own. Do you trust Chinese specs? Because I don't. Personally, my subs have a fat "Made in the USA" sticker on the motor. we're on SSA so its pretty obvious what subs i'm talking about when i say reputable.