lithium

so what are you looking for in an upgrade. describe what is was and how it performed and someone could help you out.

first question you should ask is what is wrong with your current setup.

anything decent can slam. if it isn't than someone fucked up installing it.

IIRC they have a reputation of slapping together woofers with random and often inferior parts. I'd stick to companies that actually know a thing or two about speaker design or employ individuals who do.

I'm not disagreeing with you in any way, But While I'm making my strolls around major events ... I have noticed vehicles running higher frequencies are going more and more to smaller enclosures with bigger ports ...Heck, some of them are using nothing but large scale PVC pipe and positioning the enclosures in the vehicles that best performs with vehicle resonance ... and just about every one I see is knocking on 160's door ... especiallly in the CRXs ... Please understand that I'm primarily a Sound Quality guy with ALOT of friends and competitors in the SPL realm ... So this is primarily just an observation ... ya, they're trying to control woofer excursion with a smaller box.

if there were any reports of a significant number of these woofers bursting into flames you'd hear a lot more about it. i seriously doubt the average user should worry about this at all. if you misuse/abuse your sub expect it to fail eventually.

you would be best to keep something up front at your finger tips.

great point. I'm jealous of the toys.

show off

wait so wheres the rest of the sub at? did it break off inside the box?

search wikipedia for constructive and destructive interference. or think of it this way, what would sound better, 2 sets of shitty speakers or 1 set of good speakers? any money not spend on buying the speakers should be spent on sound deadening and install. buying expensive gear and not installing it correctly is just a waste of money

Better off axis and won't dig as low. Otherwise similar I bet. *have no idea which tweets you are looking at NE19 vs NE25. http://www.parts-express.com/vifa-ne25vts-04-1-silk-dome-tweeter--264-1034 http://www.parts-express.com/vifa-ne19vts-04-3-4-silk-dome-tweeter--264-1006 Sorry, no Madisound link with graph, seems like it doesn't want to work today. I did notice that it's slightly better off-axis. But the Fs difference is very small. 19 it is then. The Miata is tiny, I can fit the NE19 better without interfering with my visual field. 1/2" smaller in overall diameter than the NE25. http://www.parts-express.com/pedocs/specs/264-1034-vifa-ne25vts-04-specifications-46538.pdf http://www.parts-express.com/pedocs/specs/264-1006-vifa-ne19vts-04-specifications-46525.pdf

shitty japanese games ftw

if the cookbook is too technical or if you're just interested in reading check out bcae1.com. it has some javescript examples that might make some topics easier to learn

i'm not familiar with the clipping circuit design but it doesn't matter either way. think about it, clipping (distortion) is only an issue if you can hear it. (if anyone feels likes explaining the circuit design or linking something for me to read that would be great)

are you competing?

i would look for a used icon, fi bl, etc. check the f/s section

what sub you running now and why aren't you happy with it?

it doesn't really matter. if you do it for a few tones just pick the middle one. remember you set the gain at about 75% volume so for songs that are recorded at a lower level you can just turn the volume up a little higher. you should be always listening/smelling for problems while pushing the subs to their limits.

clipping is fine until its audible. that "In theory" bit is just an argument used by people who don't understand what they're talking about. however, I agree with you're conclusion.

some people use a test tone while setting gain by ear. i'll just quote something from another thread. i'm surprised we dont have something stickied.

you still have some misunderstanding of how it works. the material thickness has to be at least 1/4 the wavelength. so for sub bass you're not absorbing shit in a car. even up through the mid range there would very few surfaces where you could install inches of absorption material. 3m thinsulate works in the headliner because sound is traveling at angles other than perpendicular to the surface. to correct something you said, mlv is not an absorbed its a barrier. throwing shirts on the dash can only attenuate high frequencies. people use those carpet dash kits to accomplish the same thing. how much this helps probably depends on the location/aiming of the tweeter

Rightfully so. Notice how little. We hear about the Japanese plant? Do some investigating. It's a global epidemic being swept under the rug. almost every article I see is if from some anti-nuclear group.

well first you need to send the signal to the amp. either rca from the head unit or if you're running a stock headunit you would use a LOC. next you decide where to put the passive crossover. either by the amps or upfronts. preferably not in the doors as they would be exposed to water. i would either do try to place them in the kick panel or back by the amps. the passive crossover will have 1 set of inputs which is wired to the amp's speaker terminal. the crossover will then filter that signal into two sets of outputs. one going to the tweeter and the other going to the woofer. also i would bridge the 4 channel to the comp set if that wasn't your intention already. does that answer your question? edit: oh i see you guys were talking about taping the stock wire. i tend to just run my own 16 gauge.