lithium

ya kinda

in many cases the more expensive models use a more expensive cone material for example. so the freq response will look similar but distortion or other properties of the driver might be better. good example would be to look at the tang band w4 drivers. http://www.parts-express.com/tang-band-w4-1337sd-4-titanium-driver--264-848 http://www.parts-express.com/tang-band-w4-1052sd-4-driver-4-ohm--264-828 http://www.parts-express.com/tang-band-w4-1320sj-4-bamboo-cone-driver--264-847 then you have the some models with a ferrite motor. your battery analogy is not really correct. different companies are not rebranding the same drivers. as far as I know these companies are all individual entities with some overlap. one example is tymphany which i think owns/manufacturer peerless, vifa and scan speak. but i assume there are only so many build houses around.

the box itself creates the filtering. higher the order, the sharper the slope.

the kicker 4 channel bridged to the sls will be fine.

just a damaged dust cap? could just replace it.

those daytons are ok but not the best midbass. more of a midrange. peerless sls 8s are monsters if you can fit them. lots of great 3" full rangers. fountek fe85's http://www.madisoundspeakerstore.com/approx-3-fullrange/fountek-fe85-3-aluminum-cone-full-range/ i've used the ex88, very nice driver http://www.madisoundspeakerstore.com/approx-3-fullrange/fountek-fr88ex-3-full-range/ also used these with the sls8 in my car. http://www.madisoundspeakerstore.com/approx-3-fullrange/peerless-830986-3-full-range/ tons of great fullrange drivers to play with.

makes zero sense to use car audio speakers in an active install. for example, if you're looking for a 8" midbass driver to cover 50-300hz something like the peerless sls 8" will shit all over those jl's. not even a contest. speakers like the pwx, these"car-pro audio" drivers... biggest joke to ever gain traction in car audio i've seen. granted i haven't been around very long at all. its certainly able to do the job but that doesn't make it the best option. you'll have no idea wether or not those are good locations without significant testing/aiming. thats tons of money. great thing about raw drives is that they are really cheap. that example above from sb acoustics vs the acr audio driver is an example.

http://www.soundsolutionsaudio.com/forum/topic/60735-playing-around-with-some-new-toys-training-my-ears/?hl=fountek some good discussion here, worth a read

wow that's unfortunate. all for the better i guess

no, not a good idea at all. how about you describe your current install and explain what's missing.

i'd dont agree that you've learned enough from a legitimate active 2 way install if this is all you have to say about your past experience. my first 2 way active install was running pg rsd 6.5 component set active. and I spend months tweaking and improving the build before I knew what upgrades i need to make. my next 2way set up was peerless sls 8s in the doors and a 3" fullranger in the pillars. after tweaking again for months I decided I wanted to step up to a 3 way front stage. I'll be reinstalling that setup into my new car in the coming weeks, effectively starting over. most of the digital car audio processors are really overpriced or garbage with the exception being headunits. even then most hu's can only do 2way + sub. that unit has 2 modes. the first is front, back, sub. the other mode is high, mid, and sub. so it can really only do a 2 way plus sub. unless you run the tweeter really close the mid and used some other crossover to handle them.. not the best idea. mostly outdated considering you can buy a used alpine hu like the 9855, 9835, etc for under 100 bucks. minidsp is really good but they're not exactly made for car audio (low preamp output). they did/are working with ppi and soundstream their units. I think adrian is picking one up for his mazda install. I heard you can control them from your phone or they're planning to have that feature. if they can add that feature then I think it would a really great unit. the current "problem" with minidps is that you need a laptop to make any changes. this is why we keep recommending a headunit. I run two 2x4 units currently. it was cheaper than a single 8 channel unit but slightly larger pain in the ass to work with. here's where I try to talk you into a 2 way build. but before that, STOP looking at car audio speakers. they are overpriced and/or garbage. example A - sb acoustic ... arc audio . i'm not saying these are the same drivers. however, SB builds a few drivers for various companies so why not buy straight from them at 1/10 the cost. those jl mids, even at 130 a piece, cost more than my entire front stage drivers, lol. Ok, here's the pitch. You're apparently looking for big midbass and solid midrange. IMO, the best idea would to go with a large midbass + 3" full range. (someone in the forum is also doing this build right now, forget who, check out their build/testing). pro's: big midbasssingle driver (fullrange) playing the majority of the spectrum easier to tune con's full range drivers must be on axis or near to it to avoid top end roll off midbass drivers might shake your door panels apart probably something else but i cant remember.. so its not a 3 way front stage. but what are you going to miss out on? adding that 4th channel for a 3 way + sub makes everything costlier, more time consuming in terms of tuning, and more difficult to install IF done correctly. slapping some drivers in stock locations is a terrible idea. i'll probably spends hours and hours just aiming drivers for my install. Alternatively, a fullranger + midbass install is really simple. midbass in the doors with tons of deadening and full rangers in the A pillars/ sail pails aimed at your skull (more or less). kicker is still great, though i really want to pick up two of the ppi 900.4 (or one of clones) to simplify my amp set up. if you have the kicker, I would bridge it to the midbass and use a small 2 channel for the full range drivers.

if you're using passives you just need 1 set of fullrange outs and another set for subwoofer out. i would try to find a unit with l/r independent EQ, not sure if the pioneer has that. also, if you're interested in going active down the road than a deck like the pioneer could work.

I'd like to hear the reasoning for why this is good choice. seems like a smaller driver with a larger bandwidth and better off axis response would have fit the install better.

looks good, you can post them into the thread by copying the IMG url for each pic

I'm definitely going to have to figure what to do to reinforce my door panels. Any ideas? Hehe you're building a ported enclosures right? 25 lbs of driver plus several more pounds in fiberglass on the hinges is what i'd be possibly be concerned about. strengthening the door panels isn't really necessary since the driver is in an enclosure. just make sure you secure the enclosure properly (i'd consider rivnuts and maybe some kind of rubber washer between the enclosure and door). i would still apply cld tiles, butyl rope, mlv, and ccf in the usual manner. obviously the mlv wouldn't need to cover the lower part of the door panel where the enclosure will be.

i'm going with the joycon unit. http://www.rcjoycon.com/base_3/menu_10.php?com_board_basic=read_form&menu=10&com_board_idx=14 cant wait to get started.

what make year and model? also what steering wheel module? 01 buick century. i'll be doing a tablet install and i have a unit that taps of the steering wheel controls. Basic wiring colors And this is what the ASWC-1 uses for data for the steering wheel controls http://contentdocs.installernet.com/documents/vehicle/12434.pd thanks, for some reason i was thinking it wired up differently... like one data pin per control... lol 2nd hand vape smoke is getting to me.

poor doors. i thought i was being mean with my peerless sls 8s.

what make year and model? also what steering wheel module? 01 buick century. i'll be doing a tablet install and i have a unit that taps of the steering wheel controls.

anyone have a website for headunit wiring diagrams. need one that has the steering wheel controls

i meant argued as in a scientific argument. presenting an explanation consistent with observations

SMH Ignorance is bliss. tell me where all that frankenwoofer shit started with a few years back that still has traction today

some of the forum's tech team argued it has nothing to do with the amplifier. maybe i'll try to find the post. I believe problem was most likely from overexcursion of the woofer's suspension which damaged the tinsel leads. damaged leads would then fail/spark/overheat in some manner causing fire.

no one is really commenting on the performance. just that they had problems in the past with shitty parts and the website, imo, is trashy.

just went to psi's website. oh god they have options you can add to their woofers. one was called "high performance option" for $25. I'm staying very fucking far away