lithium

EQ down the peak (to simulate a lower tuning) and see if the overall frequency response is more to your liking. If it is, than just keep the setting or build a new box. you can find the recommended enclosure size on sundowns website probably. if you keep the same NET volume and tune lower the port will be longer and the overall size of the enclosure will have to increase.

should be fine. doubt you would hear a difference between the two enclosures.

then you didn't find a good ground. pull your main fuse and check everything and make a better ground.

yes

well just order another 4" kit i like the look of the dimpled ones myself edit. mmm im not exactly sure if one more would be enough.

circles have no length, they have a radius which is half the diameter. when you say length, assume you mean the length of the port (which is a cylinder). maybe a single 6 inch aero will work, you'll have to check the air speed for it. i think stephans site has a page for it. if space isn't an issue I would just build a slot port.

make the port longer. if its a slot port i guess you could build something from mdf to extend the port externally. otherwise just build a new box.

http://products.soundsolutionsaudio.com/index.php/product-information/icon.html check out the predesigned enclosures. might be useful for you.

i was going to take at look at stephan's site but my antivirus is blocking the page. i'll have to send him a pm about it. anyone else have a problem? there's a link on the page there for Aeroport which i'm guessing does the calculations for the flared portion of the port. the area formula for a circle is pi * radius squared. so 3.14 x 2 x 2 = ~12 sq inch. the length of the port corresponds to the tuning frequency. looks like you would want to do at least two 4" aero ports.

looks like a nice amp, zapco would probably hold decent value. i agree with bridging the 4 channel section for a 2 way + sub. probably wouldn't run a 3 way + sub on that power though.

its insulting to legitimate pro audio drivers to call garbage like those cresendos pro audio. zero published parameters? obviously the company is trying to cash in on uneducated consumers.

they dont publish specs so its a hard to say what they're suppose to be installed in. these car audio marketed "pro audio" drivers are another stupid fad. sensitivity and efficiency are not parameters to worry about in themselves. in car audio, power is cheap as hell. you need to just get a component set and start off at square one and iterate from there

WAAAAAY TOO MANY INCONSISTENCIES with what you have and desire. First, buy yourself a Dayton WT3 so you at least know what the speakers you have ARE capable of...even if it comes w/ a output graph, every speaker has a different signature. THEN decide what you want for x-over points. THEN get yourself a legit processor. You are robbing peter to pay paul. Unless you have a spectrum analyzer, I would shoot for a pxa-h650 or ms-8 processor. Drop the coin, you will THANK yourself for years. If you want a stand alone crossover, keep an eye out on ebay for an old school JBL GTX-47. Theyre cheap, and they should have NEVER stopped making them. If all else fails, get an EQX and spend hundreds of dollars on drivers just because "they dont sound how I want"...btw, $400 for an MS-8 costs the same as blowing money on drivers completely shit advice, please dont follow this. lets stick to the other thread for any discussion

And he isn't going to make it though the foreword without questions that are misinterpreted. It isn't light reading by any means. bcae1.com is a bit more noob friendly.

unless it was bottoming out the sub's suspension then i doubt it hurt something.

that was terrifying

i mostly learned (and still learning) through build logs and discussion. take installing a woofer in a car door for example. here is how I do it. build a baffle (driver motor must clear window) waterproof baffle apply butyl rope between baffle and door bolt the baffle to the door create fiberglass panels to seal all access holes in the doors (separates the rear wave produced by the rear side of the speaker) sound deaden door as per SDS optional, stuff 1lb+ of modeling clay or duct seal around the baffle it hard for me to call that an install. ugh but your shops not alone. here's a sad example of what could be an acceptable install. speaker baffle - checksound deadener or CDL on the door panel and trim panel - checksealed access hole - WTF!? closed cell foam wont doing jack shit to seal those holes. that install probably cost the car owner 1000+ in equipment alone. I like other aspects of that shop's builds but every time I see them pretend to seal the access holes with ccf... just sad. leaving the old tweeter connected makes zero sense. just complete laziness on the installer's part. and more bad info on coax speakers i see. you're right that there is some interaction between the sound produced by the mid and the mechanism that holds the tweeter. I'm not sure on all the details but i suspect that there is at least a frequency dependency on the interaction and as long as the woofer isn't playing too high you won't see any negative effects. Coax speakers actually have some advantages over a component set because the tweeter is mounted with the woofer. you should not have a problem looking this info up.

after you're done reading sds check out this buildlog http://www.soundsolutionsaudio.com/forum/topic/44181-install-log-on-the-ssa-mazdas/ here is an install i did in my bro's car. wish i took better pictures somethings to note are the simple baffles used for the mid, mdf covered in several coats of truck bedliner. also, the full range drivers on the dash were wrapped in a towel and i played around with aiming for a while. later I made a mounting ring and spent quite a long time trying to get them aimed as I liked. hot glue and wooden dowels are a pain. Here is a slightly better method for creating the baffle using heat sensitive abs. One other thing, the access holes in door were not sealed in this install. Don suggests that mlv (which i did install but I might have forget to take pictures of) creates a barrier to isolate the rear wave (sound produced from the rear of the driver). I went along with it in this case but for my personal car I seal those holes with fiberglass.

please just read sounddeadenershowdown.com. The physics behind sound deadening is well understood, Don really did a great job at presenting a method for deadening a vehicle for people who aren't physicists or engineers.

i'll post some pics from my build log. or look for some build logs that do a good job of showing basic install techniques. including deadening, etc.

most of the units on that list are not made anymore. i'd get a used eclipse, alpine, or pioneer unit. I'll show you some examples. check these out. hunt your craigslist and you'll be able to find the old alpine units for 50 bucks probably http://www.ebay.com/itm/Alpine-CDA-9813-CD-Receiver-Tilt-Face-Sirius-XM-Ready-Detachable-Face-/331142546104?pt=Car_Audio_In_Dash_Receivers&hash=item4d19a242b8 http://www.ebay.com/itm/Alpine-CDA-9855-CD-Player-MP3-In-Dash-Receiver-/151244842294?pt=Car_Audio_In_Dash_Receivers&hash=item2336e52536 http://www.ebay.com/itm/Alpine-CDA-9853-CD-Player-With-Glidetouch-Control-/121285872174?pt=Car_Audio_In_Dash_Receivers&hash=item1c3d338a2e http://www.ebay.com/itm/ALPINE-CDA-9886-CD-player-WMA-MP3-SIRIUS-XM-IPOD-HD-READY-9887-117-/271408058271?pt=Car_Audio_In_Dash_Receivers&hash=item3f312e4f9f http://www.ebay.com/itm/Eclipse-CD7000-Head-Unit-with-Sirius-Satellite-Receiver-/261406874436?pt=Car_Audio_In_Dash_Receivers&hash=item3cdd105b44 if you really need hd audio. here is the alpine adapter. Though, as m5 pointed out, its a shit source for music. just take that money and buy cd's. http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_trksid=p2050601.m570.l1313.TR0.TRC0.H0.XTUA-T550HD&_nkw=TUA-T550HD&_sacat=0&_from=R40 minidsp will be more expensive when you factor in all the extra time you'll spend fucking with it. even with the voltage regulator it still susceptible to noise and other issues that make using it a pain. its not a fun experience tuning at all. swapping in a headunit will literally take a few minutes (or longer if you need to run dedicated power/ground, which i recommend doing). this assumes they were installed correctly/properly, which i doubt they are.

How did you measure it? dd-1

http://www.bcae1.com/repairbasicsforbcae1/repairbasics.htm happy reading

Thanks for the tip. Impact is good stuff. I took it to a shop and told the guy to build the box to 1.75 cubes. I'm thinking I maybe should have told him as big a box as he could build. The sub is a 10" running off a Sundown 1500 amp, not sure what you mean about bass boost because the only thing i'd consider boosting my bass would be setting my car bass EQ up a little higher. If I turn the bass knob down with the clipping light on it there's literally no bass. haha And I didn't set anything, I picked it up from the shop and they told me they set everything up for me and that it was good to go. I could take some more pics later and post them up if it'd help. we would need to know dimensions of the box to say if there is a problem with it. all EQ or bass boost should be set to flat or zero. what you're calling the bass knob is a gain knob for the sundown amp. sounds like the amp isn't set up correctly. or the EQ your messing with is confusing you.

what are the specs on the enclosure? what size sub? what amp? bass boost off? how did you set the gains?