lithium

make sure to factor in the subwoofer displacement when you're designing the box.

i'm more inclined to think you have some issue with the settings either at the amp or hu rather than an issue with the amp itself. if you have another amp around you could try swapping it in.

should be on 4 channel otherwise the signal sent to the first set of inputs is duplicated to the rears

is there a 2 channel or 4 channel mode setting on the amp?

agreed. Op get some duct seal from a hardware store and play around with different locations and aiming.

try the lpad on the tweeter. there is a -3 db and -6db setting. try them both. the -6db will lower the tweeter's output the most.

welcome, wish you came by before purchasing the gear. since you're working with drivers without a passive crossover you need to dedicate 1 channel of amp to each. then crossover the tweeter high enough so that it doesn't pop. honestly, you were mislead to purchase those drivers and should just sell them and start over.

That's ridiculous. Why would you not get new soft parts from the company who actually made the woofer?

Wednesday was really strange. Dropped 30+ degrees in the afternoon/evening.

the tweeter likely failed because you put your faith into a black box to set up your amp. the dd-1 is making someone a lot of money, sorry you got taken advantage of.

i would try to correct the issue with attenuation like m5 suggested or with the aiming/location first before eq'ing it. though figuring out what range of frequencies are "hot" would be a good idea.

good news you can probably sell the dd-1 for a new tweeter. and it would solve your problems.

EXCELLENT ANSWER SIR!!!! See I was thinking the same thing. The C1100 is huge and I guess thats what caught the eye a bit. Maybe I came off a bit strong with that but in my head I'm thinking I need something to keep up with that Fi Q. ( BTW you ran 2200 RMS to one Q sub @ 1ohm???) Whats your opinion on the new line of Crescendo amps called Symphony series?? Loved the old school Alpine audio too! I'll have to look into Incriminator Audio. Thank you! if you were looking for output why did you buy the fi q?

go over the installation in detail. pictures would be useful if you cant describe speaker placement/aiming.

watts are watts. i'm sceptical that you actually found differences in amps if you compared them correctly. changing amps in your situation likely wont improve a thing. imo, OP should be looking at used or refurbed korean amps for the subs. Or if he is looking to save some space, ppi 1000.1 are super small and very solid. the ppi 900.4 or any of the variants using the same board (polk, hertz, etc) are also solid. i feel its important to point out that op will likely need to upgrade the alt in his car if he's running much more than 1500w (depending on the music he is listening to, of course). you also gain little output running more power comparably.

I think buying some higher quality used gear would be more appropriate.

what's the kx3 doing exactly?

what are the amp settings? what does it actually sound like when you say bad?

someone else's subjective opinion on how they sound shouldn't mean jack to you. however, opinions on build quality, for example, are useful. if you're about to drop several hundred bucks on this install do yourself a favor and listen to them in person. or spend less money so you wont be pissed when they sound like shit

madisound.com parts-express.com uspeaker.com i dont think OP is doing an active install. ah, good catch lithium. Maybe he could make his own passive setup. I've never tried myself, but there are some kits available. Probably would go terribly for him. The comps he picks will have little impact on the results if he fudges the rest of the install.

madisound.com parts-express.com uspeaker.com i dont think OP is doing an active install.

caps, like batteries, are wired in parallel so it doesn't really matter.

http://www.bcae1.com/battiso.htm

jesus, try some paragraphs. Stick with one set of 6.5 components upfront. 6x9s or whatever are fine too buy have no real advantages. 6.5s are probably easier to install in most cars. Anything installed in the rear deck or rear doors is a waste of money. better to spend that on the front comps/install/deadening.