lithium

wait.. what? since when at least from all my ordering. That has been the case from an total OD perspective. interesting, anyone else test this? You can try for yourself. Go buy some 2/0 welding cable, then buy some RF 1/0 cable. I'm will to put money they are the same size in total OD. You can buy 4/0 welding cable, and compare it to SHCA 2/0 cable, and again, same szie. I've also confirmed this with speaker wire as well. 6 awg welding cable is the same as 8 awg car audio wire. i got some 1/0 welding cable around so i could test it. for my purposes it doesn't matter. just haven't heard that the size difference was that significant between welding cable and the car audio cable. I assume that car audio cable is oversized or are they using a different rating? we're talking the OD of the copper not including the jacket, right? when I say "Total", that indicates both cable and sleeve. you're really confusing me here. who gives two shits about the sleeve? does 1/0 welding cable have more or less copper than 1/0 car audio cable.

wait.. what? since when at least from all my ordering. That has been the case from an total OD perspective. interesting, anyone else test this? You can try for yourself. Go buy some 2/0 welding cable, then buy some RF 1/0 cable. I'm will to put money they are the same size in total OD. You can buy 4/0 welding cable, and compare it to SHCA 2/0 cable, and again, same szie. I've also confirmed this with speaker wire as well. 6 awg welding cable is the same as 8 awg car audio wire. i got some 1/0 welding cable around so i could test it. for my purposes it doesn't matter. just haven't heard that the size difference was that significant between welding cable and the car audio cable. I assume that car audio cable is oversized or are they using a different rating? we're talking the OD of the copper not including the jacket, right?

wait.. what? since when at least from all my ordering. That has been the case from an total OD perspective. interesting, anyone else test this?

hey randal, let us know when you recone the blues drivers with psi softparts instead of going to the manufacture. By your arguments, the results would be the same, right?

Did you go to your Vehicle's dealership to get an upgraded Alternator to work with your upgraded aftermarket stereo system ?? No, Most likely you went with someone that took the origional idea and made it better to work with your application. The aftermarket thing has been going on for years with cars and trucks. Where have you been brother ??I'm sure I will not be able to ease over the local Ford place to buy replacement parts for my 1949 model vehicle. I have no choice but to go aftermarket. Sorry brother, but this post is pure speculation. I have another friend that has a chevy Truck that is similar to mine. Well, His is a GMC and mine is Chevy. His has one of those well named audio aftermarket alternators on it and mine has a General Motors Upgrade off of a 3500 series chevy, but my truck is a 1500 series.Now when you set the alternators side by side, they are identical. If it wasn't for the aftermarket audio brand being powercoated, you could not tell which one is which. So did this well named audio brand (they have a section on this forum) steal ideas and / or parts from origional manufacturers ?? I don't know Guys. Maybe at the time of my friend's need of work being done, nothing was avialiable from IA. Out of stock ?? Who knows ?? But from what I was told, the PSI work got done in a very timely manner. the car analogy is pretty pathetic. find me one source to back up the idea that PSI can source replacement parts and rebuild a woofer to original spec. bottem line, if PSI could actually do this then companies like SSA or IA would probably advertise the service, right? wouldn't they want their customers to have access to quick reconing services? It should be obvious as to why they DO NOT endorse psi recones and recommend going to the manufacturer. A team member designed the enclosure for me. He designs all of our enclosures.I built the enclosure for this build. He Designed this enclosure to origional IA Flatline specs found on the net (So I'm told).I wish I could get my hands on an origional IA Flatline driver just so I can Swap drivers and see if I can tell a difference. I'm not trying to argue with anyone brother. I'm just posting my thoughts on a driver that I got to work with first hand. If anyone within a hundred miles or so from Jackson, Ms with an origional Flatline driver would like to meet up with me and compare drivers, Shoot me a PM so we can meet up some time. then the enclosure build was a complete fluke. no reason at all to believe that the new woofer and the original have the same T/s specs without measurement. except PSI is doing nothing to improve performance over the original.

wait.. what? since when

as to your question. your method is fine but doesn't result in any differences. unless the hu output get dirty before hitting 75%, in which case you would pick a lower volume level. you won't gain any magic db's or anything like that...

the hu signal could be clean all the way up to 100% but thats not the reason why you set the gain with the hu at 75%. say you have a song that is recorded at a lower reference level. if you set the gain with the hu at 100% then that song would always be quieter relative to other tracks. but if the gain is set with the hu at a lower volume (755%) you can turn the hu up past that point so the song is as loud as everything else. 75% is pretty pretty arbitrary, you could pick 50%, set the gains accordingly, and you wouldn't hear a difference.

anything special about sky high's stuff? i'd just get welding cable or whatever is cheapest (assuming its ofc and to spec)

box built to manufacturer's spec should do the job just fine.

actually capacitors mask problems with the charging system

i hate hearing the miss information shops try to sell people... If your friend knows a thing or two then i'd work with him to do the upgrade yourselves. a capacitor wont do a thing to help. you should do the big three upgrade. for the amount of power you're running this should be enough (the limiting factor will be your car's alternator). you will have to upgrade to a 1/0 awg run to the amps if you move them to the trunk. wire is cheap enough, assuming you're not buying overpriced stuff. if you stick to the underseat idea than just do a separate run to the sub amp. the sub you should get is a dvc 2 ohm model and wire to 1 ohm at the amp. if you're pulling to much power just turn the volume down. i wouldn't bother with rear speakers at all. leave them on hu power or remove them preferably. i would bridge the 4 channel to the front speakers

Attaching a ported enclosure to a door that is well "padded" should be fine. oh so these will be ported then? looked IB in the pics.

bad news. have you tried fiddling with the 2ch/4ch switch. maybe its not engaged properly. worth a shot before giving up on it. there might be some repair options available or sell it as-is to anyone who can

how does psi go about sourcing the parts? how do they know or figure out the design specifications that Fi or IA used? we're not talking about off the shelf components used by all these chinese mass produced woofers. at best they could only reverse engineer the original design or produces something entirely different (ie. the frankenwoofer trend).

i'd say thats still way too thin. maybe you can get away with it for that sub but it seems like a poor practice. you'll often see people stand on their box to test/demonstrate how strong it is. i've personally never done big fiberglass work but i would think 1/4 inch minimum thickness would be a good target.

well you should probably rule out the headunit by sending signal to the amp from another device. easiest would be from your phone via a 3.5mm to rca cable. if you have an andriod device, use an app like funcgen to play tones. experiment with the woofers not the tweeters so they aren't damaged. or use a dmm

you obviously dont understand subwoofer design. the correct softparts are absolutely vital to the subs performance. You misunderstand me. I'm saying that psi soft parts are not going to make that driver sound any better than it already did. In reality, it will degrade the driver, not help it. ahh my bad. i agree, the sub is definitely not performing as well as it would with the correct soft parts.

so basically the rear of the enclosure is molded into a pocket in the corner of the trunk? and the rear of the box only consists of TWO layers of glass?

how you managed to kill the amp will be important to understand so that it doesn't happen again. The speaker was probably killed by thermal failure. cut it up and take a look.

looks good. won't mounting to the door trim cause a lot rattles?

screw efficiency and small mounting depth, imo. i'm not afraid to cut my doors up.

so you're assuming the coils are the same for both subs? even if the gap measurement was the same that wouldn't mean the coils are interchangeable contact fi and get the correct part.

the builder probably measured new ts parameters and built a new enclosure around it. i very much doubt it resembles the original. Or just go lucky..

you obviously dont understand subwoofer design. the correct softparts are absolutely vital to the subs performance.