lithium

lol maybe they actually do sound pretty good? sometimes that cheap shit will surprise you. the pwx and the boss bullet tweeter do not advertise t/s parameters. without any way to gauge their performance objectively than we should assume they're trash.

good catch. it would certainly be better if it was ported. if he was only going to run sealed he should have gotten the high qts. should still work in either with a qts of .37

i've yet to hear you describe what "bad" sounds like. given your description of the amp settings and so forth i assume you've got something set up incorrectly.

enclosure, tuning, install, deadening, etc.

you could always try gaining output through other means than more power.

it would be worth the (used) value of the sub minus the cost for the recone kit. so if it is a 200 dollar sub and needs a 75 dollar recone the motor and basket is worth 125.

speakers are stupid, it tried to do what you told it to but you told it kill itself. buy a recone, set the amp up correctly, and learn to use your ears and nose to tell when the sub is being pushed too hard.

Two way passives? Was thinking about building bookshelf speakers for some locals to make some money on the side. I want to try a three way active one day as it seems like a proper challenge, however, what is gained with three speakers over two, provided the two way is already setup correctly? Ease of reproduction? I was always told to keep it simple. But other than that, I am game for trial and error, and some foolin' around with different sets. That has to be my favorite way to learn by far; not to mention, learning by experience tends to be more rewarding lots of good bookshelf designs out there if you want to build and sell. zaphaudio for example

dont really see a point in building your own passive 2 way. requires more work than an active 2 way. best way to learn would be to install a typical passive 2 way and tweak it until you've gotten everything out of it. If you're not happy with the preformance at that point then you choose to go active or not. If you choose to move forward then take that same set, replace the passive xover with an active xover (requires a 4 channel amp and processor), and tune it again until it sounds even better. Now you know where or not the drivers can do what you need them to do. If they can't then its time to look at new drivers to fit your performance needs (output, sq, etc). as to what drivers you may want to consider i'd come here asking for recommendations. i've been doing this for a little while and still dont feel comfortable picking out drivers without first getting some recommendations and advice if you want to read about how NOT to go about it read that stupid ncc thread...

contact don, he will go over each part of vehicle that you want to treat, recommend just enough to get it done, and give you the right instructions. then you'll have an idea of what it will cost. i would recommend at least deadening the doors, roof, trunk, and rear shelf. and then mlv and ccf for the front doors. depending how much you want to spend, you could do more areas (like the floor) to reduce road noise for example. will do! what do you mean rear Shelf? Are you talking about a car? I Have an SUV so it'll be the doors, hatch, roof i guess. Not sure if ill need anywhere else But i most certainly want to do it right. aside form Don's email on the website I found is there another contact? is he on this Forums? contact him by email

location is not the problem I have it up front it that I'd like to have more band to adjust the sound. I take it that your not a fan of the kq30. No, what he's saying is that with the digital processors that are available that can be adjusted from the seat you'll be listening to it in at real time then what would be the point in buying something so archaic. If you can't listen to the adjustments you make in real time it's much harder to hear AND know exactly what that adjustment did for you. Given the prices those are going for a DSP just makes that much more sense and with most of the DSP's on the market you have 30 or more bands of EQ for each individual channel and so much more that it can do. I have a four way system what dsp would you suggest for less than 200$? what is your set up exactly? might be best to make a dedicated post in the main forum so people will see it.

for midbass frequencies you dont need worry about aiming or port location at all really. just make sure the port clears any obstacles close the exit (within a few inches).

good question, wonder why you dont see it done more often. maybe pr's are limited to subbass frequencies?

wont break in if you dont play them.

Paying for something that last for 25 years or better and that product works just as good today as the day you bought it would seem well worth the money to me. Wouldn't you agree ??I'm sure that I've got my money's worth 10 fold out of the Drivers that I own. So If they ever go bad, I think I will drive over to the Manufacturer to purchase some new ones and not worry about recones. sure, plenty of speakers have been around that long. take a set of dry rotten speakers, replace the surround, and they're back to performing as good as the day they were new.

I know what you can do Sir, Spring Break Nationals in Daytona Beach is this weekend.Why don't you go down there and talk to PSI personally ?? I'm sure that they will be down there doing what no other manufacturer does, and that's building drivers on location for competition. They will be building drivers Friday and Saturday nights for next day competition runs. Been doing this for the last few events there that I know of. Maybe you can get your answers there ??? It's 2014, if i had a question for PSI i'd send an email.

I agree, but in the same sense, it takes a long time to get recones from Fi/SSA. Extra week or two for the parts designed for the sub is worth it. its worth quoting this again.

Ok Brother, No need to bust my balls any further. Its aparant that you have an absolute hard on to discredit the name of PSI.I'm cool with that. I was just posting my thoughts on a single driver and not necessarily praising the company. Customer brought me a sub needing an enclosure build and I provided a service to get that customer satisfied. Nothing more. Now we are moving on to the next project. I got paid for my services and bought a case of Budweiser and some food for the BBQ Grille. Done as far as I'm concerned. So I will Leave this one alone since I have absolutely nothing to do with PSI. Now as far as the drivers that I used in my truck, They were built in the early 90s and to this day DOES NOT NEED ANY RECONES. I could reinstall my enclosure / drivers tomorrow, throw a meter on it, and still hit a 137.7 db at 28 htz as usual AND THEN PLAY through the Chesky Records Collection Disc with very accurate music reproduction. I do not mistreat anything I own. I haven't looked to anybody for over 25 years to recone my drivers, So why should I worry about that now ??? wasn't criticizing your install at all. I was criticizing the idea that sourcing inferior replacement parts is preferable over getting the actual parts designed for the subwoofer. i dont have a hard on for shitting on psi but i do think there's value in having loyalty to companies you deal with. I understand you take good care your gear. i would too if I paid that much. But, accidents happen sometimes, screwdriver through the surround or something like that. i guarantee you'll get a recone from blues, not psi, not fi, not anywhere else. Because, it's blues' design and its blues' parts.

contact don, he will go over each part of vehicle that you want to treat, recommend just enough to get it done, and give you the right instructions. then you'll have an idea of what it will cost. i would recommend at least deadening the doors, roof, trunk, and rear shelf. and then mlv and ccf for the front doors. depending how much you want to spend, you could do more areas (like the floor) to reduce road noise for example.

i'd be interested in seeing how the grills were made if you can get some pics later.

ok cool, so car audio cable is oversized for the most part.

looks nice, what material did you use? swede?

Yeah tell me bout it! Not that tried to huggle on the price or anything but its UP THERE. ill PM thanks Yeah they told me the same thing. Although he recommended at least 90 sqft of dampener for the whole SUV. When you say sealed this is what you're talking about right? just dampening? I do plan on doing the inside and outside of the door and am thinking I should cover the whole door, yes? Sounddeadenershowdown.com nuff said this! give don's site a read.

midbass should be better when installed in a properly sealed car door compared to the sound board. best to continue listening to installs where possible.

exactly what i thought. 1/0 welding cable should have the same amount of copper as 1/0 car audio cable, right? why suggest otherwise