lithium

I did everything you're supposed to do- gains cranked fully clockwise as far as they would go, bass boost on tape deck at +10, and fuses on amp replaced with jumper bars. I even broke the sub in with 110volt AC current. Not sure why I'm getting the blame for this. forgot the bank of flux capacitors.

https://www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-rss315ho-44-12-reference-ho-dvc-subwoofer--295-467 dayton ho not sure how this would go sealed. you should probably model a couple of the options and see how they perform for your enclosure

mount the subwoofer with the motor outside the box. the Q's displacement is .16 cu ft. so currently your box is effectively .84 cu ft. if you reverse mount the sub and add polyfil you can simulate what how the box would perform if the box was ~30% larger (according to this http://www.glasswolf.net/papers/polyfill.html). which would be ~1.3 cu ft. remember if you decide to build a new enclosure to include the woofer displacement in the calculation.

it is a remote gain so you can lower the subwoofer output separately of the front stage. not all headunits have sub level control which does the same thing.

read sounddeadenershowdown.com and come back to us if you have any question. use the damp pro as Don describes and whatever is left you should sell to someone else and spend that money on mlv, ccf, ect

All of this... If the first 2 things give you better sound then you should make a bigger enclosure. Did someone ask about ssf? You could turn it off or just set it pretty low if you're playing some really ridiculous low frequency shit. 25hz or so

from your description why not go ported with a dcon or sa12?

is the enclosure 1 cu ft net before or after subwoofer displacement? probably just needs to loosen up. I would try a few other things first. first you can simulate a large box by reversing the woofer in the enclosure and/or adding polyfil. another idea would be to move the enclosure around the trunk (close the the trunk lid is typically best).

http://www.theguardian.com/technology/2014/apr/05/pono-neil-young-24bit-192khz-review the kickstarter is at $5.5m with 8 days left. ridiculous. https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/1003614822/ponomusic-where-your-soul-rediscovers-music

the response you're missing from the sub, for whatever reason, could be made up for with strong midbass. i still dont understand why the xcon is not performing as it should. something isnt right and i can only guess you're overlooking some setting or other issue.

i think you got skar'd

why? get the proper parts from IA. mixing and matching random shit wont result in a better sub.

what's the high pass for the mids?

here are some other ideas/questions. but i think the problem is enclosure related. you sure the xover setting is accurate, markings on the amp are usually off. what about the front stage? have you tried moving the box around the cargo area? have you tried changing the phase (if the amp has a setting?) or swapping the polarity?

ppi p1000.1 is a solid amp, installed one in my bro's car on an ssa icon. would match up the the 900.4 nicely.

Not sure why this comment deserved a negative rep, but whatever. Your impression was wrong. A better box will give a better response. I think I misused the term transient trying to describe what was going on here. Sorry for that. It seemed like the response peaked at about 35-40hz and dropped off fast anything above about 50hz. Anything with any sort of speed or staccato to it just kind of ran together. You could tell there were separate notes or kick bass beats, but there wasn't much of any separation to them. if the bass boost on? +1 for the sds. probably someone missed clicked

and neither of you can do a google search. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Audio_crossover#Passive there's even diagrams.

never seen someone try to piss money away like this... honestly you got to be a troll you're install is a fucking mess. fix it before you buy another damn thing.

you're not looking for sound quality you're looking for output. no one on the planet installs 18s for the sake of SQ.

you're right a 10 and 18 CAN have the same frequencies response. the 18 is just capable of more output.

you got a giant peak in the low end due to the subwoofer/enclosure and the acoustics of a vehicle. either EQ out the peak or look to gain output from midbass (because that upper range that you're lacking is approaching midbass frequencies.

the point im making is that you dont need the output if you're looking for a balanced system. what you're trying to achieve with 18" Q's wont result in anything different then the sp4 you had before.

if thats the case then you shouldn't be worrying about subs at all. i dont understand how this is your goal but you're talking about 2 18" subs. What are you trying to accomplish exactly, because it certainly isn't SQ so stop kidding yourself?

why do you need 2 sets of speakers. why not get 1 really good set?

for the way less than the cost of the pr's you could build several boxes with different specs and test out which is best.