lithium

I am willing to do anything except build enclosures within the door because I simply don't have room. Anything else I'm fine with doing seeing as I've done it before.Budget 250$ on raw drivers I think that hu cant do fullrange + midbass so you will have to stick with tweeter + woofer. Something like exodus anarchy and a large format has been a pretty popular recommendation. i'll leave others to make the recommendations.

contact psi and fi to see what they can do if you cant find a DD recone.

will more installation improvements the passengers in the rear won't have much a problem hearing the music. Its true they're further from the front speakers and loudness falls off with distance.

Thank you for noticing . Lots of weighted lunges at the gym. Yes and no. If you do the right things right you end up with a car that'll do decent from either seat for the most part. Things like trying to equalize pathlengths, get a decently flat FR or at least similar FR from each side, good selection in xover points, etc. In my case though the midbass in the doors will need quite a bit of TA so it'll only really image well from the drivers seat over the entire spectrum, but the midrange and up should do pretty good from either seat. Aiming yes I've almost always ended up off axis even for the best imaging from only the driver's seat. I think it has a lot to do with achieving a combination of both aiming the drivers for the same axis at the listening position and aiming them both to the same spot in the vehicle to keep FR from each side similar. No hard data on that, just my guess. Sean pretty much hit most of the acoustic reasons in his response, and to be perfectly honest it just makes life easier when trying out aiming and finishing the kicks. The only real downside I can think of is that the midrange and tweeter will be forced into similar axis, but I think the time saved, ease of testing out aiming and other issues like maintaining close center to center spacing will more than compensate for any slight deviation in imaging from either driver being a few degrees out of optimal aiming due to being affixed to each other. thanks for answering questions. I figured ease of install had to do with tweeter/mid aiming.

depends on a lot of factors. what are your constraints for mount depth, diameter, and locations for mids and tweeters? how much fabrication are you willing to do? budget?

a passive set would be less of a time investment in terms of tuning but the results wont be as good as active on raw drivers. up to you

how much of the required hardware do you have to go active (processor, amps, etc)? And have you done an active 2way set up before? If you have the hardware buy have not tried active 2 way before than start with a pair of components. I wouldn't spend hertz money for a pair of components that you will be replacing with diy drivers down the road. But, I guess you could more easily sell the hertz after you're done with them (assuming you dont blow a driver).

On/Off axis depends on a lot of factors. The xover points of the drivers (ie if you run them into beaming), response of the drivers, obstructions and design of the lower dash, one seat or two seat car, etc. Generally speaking the drivers end up being off-axis, especially in a 2-seat car. One of the requirements for good imaging is to have even FR from both the left and right drivers. Most people recommend to start out by aiming them at the back of the headunit and adjust from there. This way the speakers end up being about the same amount of off-axis to both listeners. All of my kicks end up being quite a bit off-axis for the best imaging. I've never understood the people who aim both kicks at the dome light or the like, the passenger side kick ends up being way more on-axis to the driver than the driver's side kick, and vice versa. If you aim the drivers to both be "on-axis" to the driver, then by default they will be all fucked up to the passenger and the power response will probably not be even at the listening position since they will be aimed differently in the vehicle. Look at pictures of vehicles like Gary Biggs Regal....the kicks were aimed basically straight across the car. As for the same plane, I assume you mean how I have them aligned horizontally? I'm doing this for basically height issues. If I tried to stack them vertically then either the midrange or the tweeter would be tucked way up under the dash and wouldn't have a direct "line of sight" to the listener. So all of the sound would basically be indirect reflections since the direct radiation would just be shot straight into the underside of the dash. Between that and the short wavelengths I can only imagine the comb filtering and other interference issues by having either driver *that* close to a reflective surface. The downside is that the FR in the horizontal plane with this alignment will probably be pretty bad around the crossover region, so aiming is going to pretty important to make sure I'm not shooting that crappiness straight at me Vertical would be better if I had the room, but I don't. Thanks for explaining that. So for your build are you aiming for a 2-seat car or do the drivers lend themselves to off axis aiming better? I should have explained what I meant by plane. Is there a reason for the mid and tweeter are at the same angle off axis? (your mounting rings are connected) I assume its a similar line of reasoning as above. I'll be testing every configuration I can when I start my front stage install but i'm interested in hearing how other people go about it.

let me know when they invent wireless amps. the amp rack will be attached via hinges the 2x4 secured to the trunk floor. This way i'll retain access to the spare. A carpeted floor and false wall will hide the amps and subwoofer. minidsp, minidc, relay, some switches, and distro blocks.

Cool, another buick install! Cant wait to see the midbass enclosures. I haven't decide whether to go IB or with an enclosure for my sls 8's yet. What are your thoughts on kick panel installs. Mid + tweeter off axis vs on axis? Is there a reason for the mid and tweeter to be on the same plane?

Sealed fiberglass pods for a mid that maybe be designed for IB (car door) will hurt the midbass. though im not sure what you mean by pods. Either way, performance will come down to install so focus on that and not on the speaker brand.

i've been hearing some good things about ting. https://ting.com/rates, they use the sprint network. in my area i'm stuck with verizon.

too many amps. should be finished with wiring and installed tomorrow. I'll have to get more mdf/plywood to finish the false floor.

Sorry, I have no idea what you mean. I have to do something with the 6"s, right now they're mounted to the door frame, there is around a 3" to 4" gap between the speaker and the door panel so I need to make some kind of adapter. I was going to make an adapter to bring the speakers out to the door panel and cut out the grill on the door panel, is that what I should do next? the gap between the speaker and the door trim is fine. you need to use a baffle between the metal door and the speaker. what you're wanting to do is a little unnecessary but you could do that if you wanted to.

that's the complete opposite of what i would expect. as alpines and clarions i've used are front = high, rear = mid

The infinity are fineSell the 6x9's. bridge the 4 channel to the frontssub and sub amp are fine if you're happy with them. Watts are wattsEQ is unnecessary. The 3 parametric built into the headunit is way more powerful than a 7 band graphicsell the EQ- see abovedeaden the doors, SDS has the cheapest most effective option, in my opinion. not sure what you mean by: the sub amp only needs to reproduce 30hz to ~100hz basically. fullrange amps accomplish this obviously. I assume you've set the LPF appropriately (subsonic filter isn't required for a sealed setup)? how about you just go over all your settings on the amp and hu. as far as deadening goes you should be able to sell your unused equipment to buy everything to deaden the front doors. this is a rough estimate: 1 x 13.5sqft sheet of mlv1 x 13.5 sqft sheet of ccf1 roll - butyl ropevelcro strips1 can contact cement~12 - 15 cdl tiles Thats what? 100 bucks or something? Those 6x9 are $170 on the sonicelectronix link you posted. You should be able to sell the 6x9s and EQ, buy deadener, and still come out ahead.

small update before the amp/false floor build starts tomorrow. some solid photography here :/ sub installed, not happy with my carpet choice , I'm also considering some kind of grill for the sub. I leave the rear seats down so I may need to find a way to hide the sub. from behind. yes the top bolt is not installed correctly. It's just plugging the hole. This 2x4 is will anchor the false floor and be used as the hinge point for the amp rack. rivnut and machine screws secure it to the floor at 6 points.

Why wouldn't you use the correct parts. Fi builds both subs anyways

when two sources reproduce the same signal, ie the front left and rear left speakers, they interfere. This kills the frequency response. When the same signal from two sources arrive at your ears at different times, due to different path lengths, this fucks the stage. Its way more complicated than this but thats the basic idea. Read the psychoacoustics section on wikipedia where it explains sound localization. the point to the bookshelf speaker example is that there in only ONE set of speakers. not one set in front of you and one behind you. no you're not processing the sound at all. you've just hooked up a 2nd set of speakers. active processing is where the signal is filtered (altered) digitally before amplification). while passive refers to filtering after amplification (ie. capacitors, resistors, inductors, etc). if the 6x9s are inherently bad than there's no saving them. since you haven't mentioned deadening the doors, i suggest you start there. correctly installing a pair of speakers should be the first priority.

more bad camera work. test fit Went ahead and installed it after upholstering with carpet. Not too happy that the carpet is darker than factory. oh well its a freakin buick. The gray sticking out along the bottom is foam weather stripping. Probably should have used black. I think I'm going to regret my stapling job .

you didnt post any links or mention a price. doesn't really matter though as you're probably better off finding something used. check your local CL or the f/s section on the forums you visit (make a wtb post and see what people have lying around).

cabin gain would have be measured. not that knowing it would do you any good.

Thank you for your response. I've heard that from a few people. Sorry but I disagree, if you do it right, the rear can help make the system better. My Front is complete,that's why I'm working on the back. I blew out my back speakers last year and had to drive 6 hours home from Michigan and it sounded good, I was surprised, just the fronts and subs. But, If the back matches the front, it's like wearing headphones. When I fade it to the front only, the sound is all in front of me, but if I use the fade and start adding a little rear, there is a point where the music is right where I am, then I'm surrounded in it. Back in the day when I had a 76 Buick regal I had a great system and the sound was perfect, at least in the front seat, sounded like crap in the back but I didn't care. When you would sit in the front seat the sound was all around me just like putting head phones on. I'm trying to get that sound again from what you're describing you simply have not heard a front stage that is set up correctly.

The carpet I ordered from partsexpress is a tad dark. anyone have experience dyeing carpet? I'm thinking about trying it if the process is relatively painless.

lol thanks guys. quick update. built the baffle for the mj 18. It might look a bit strange but the design makes more sense when you see it installed. I was going to wait until after I upholstered before posting so you wouldn't see bad cuts. I decided to get fancy with some rivnut to secure the baffle.. what a giant pain. I'll post the pictures of the baffle upholstered and installed tomorrow.