lithium

watts are watts. there might be some other options if we knew your size limitations.

eww

if the 3" isn't on axis you might need a tweeter covering the top end.

Thought about trying a blind test. Im using 320kbs mp3 right now. Maybe I'll just make a bunch of files and put it on random. Should I throw a few different encoders into the mix? I've also done some null tests for my undergrad research. So based on that I realize there's little difference between high bit rate mp3 and lossless but its not an area I feel understand confidently. In that case it had more to do with the data than whether or not an audible difference exist.

Real question. What format do you use for your music. I've been thinking about re-ripping my CDs to lossless and converting to 256 MP3 for smaller storage like phone.

I have an mSata SSD inside and room for a 9.5mm thick laptop HDD. I have 500mb of SSD and 500mb of HDD which is a little shy for my music, but close enough as I can yank a few things.GB? Haha

scotch guard might be worth trying. maybe this wet look stuff or something similar might be worth checking out. http://www.parts-express.com/Search.aspx?keyword=wet%20look&sitesearch=true

http://www.parts-express.com/peerless-830667-8-paper-cone-sls-subwoofer--264-1102 no its actually coated from factory.

does the SSD fit inside?

my sls 8s (treated paper cone ) were in the doors of my previous car for a few years and haven't failed yet. Im re-installing them with some additional protection this time around. http://www.crutchfield.com/S-38fdFVYlUUh/g_762/Foam-Speaker-Baffles.html had to modify the rear of section of the foam so they would vent into the door.

I don't understand. So a 2 way setup plays the midbass and frequencies above? While the 3 way setup just plays the midbass?no a 3 way you will have another driver that plays in between the mid bass and tweeter. Thanks for clarification. So do 3 way setups usually sound better than 2 way setups? Because your using each driver for a specific set of frequencies. Rather than using just using just 1 midbass driver that plays a larger range of frequencies? potentially, but the install and tuning is incredibly more difficult

using US composites right now. its great, much better than walmart's 3m shit.

<3 physics

looks good

after 2 years installed in my brothers car both fr88ex died within a few months of each other. motor shifted in both. bad batch? too much heat on the dash?

bit cheaper on PE

Ah, CAN. PAC-SWI will work too and then there is no dicking around. That is what I am going to do. Less cutting of stock wiring in particular wires connected to a bus is a good idea IMO. I was at TRW and specifically asked if they implemented the CAN in the wheel or post wheel on my car...they couldn't answer, lol. seems pac swi rc will take care of it then. whats another $40 at this point...

http://www.mp3car.com/input-devices/149702-where-to-get-the-signal-of-steering-wheel-controls-for-car-pc.html this seems to say that i can tap the resistive buttons before the can bus

routing out some is probably fine. or you could cut a hole and fiberglass it.

got the nexus 7 in and everything working fine except for the joycon exr. i think i need to look into some sort of interface.

mb quartz might be good. check out massive audio. http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAudio/p_29650_Massive_Audio_D_2400.aspx

maybe its the 4th of july sale.

poor car

you might have toasted the coil. there shouldn't be any scraping sound.

tight fit!