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Everything posted by lithium
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my plans just got put on hold..... im desided weither to comute to college in the fall. if i deside to comute ill be buying a new car that gets better gas milage. i think ill start another thread but i am wondering about want kind of modifacations i can make to a new car that will not interfer with any sort of warrenty.
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ill have about 100-130$ for deading front doors. ive got a dynamat extreme 36^2 foot (bulk) kit in the trunk. which is enough just barly enough for my arsensal. what would be a good product to cover front doors with my budget? i was thinking about getin another dynamat extreme bulk kit for doors.
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for the price i guess i cant pass it up! ill order some soon and post results
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thanks for all the advice. ill see what i can do. i think ill do straight deading. i havent use fiberglass yet. i like that idea with the plastic but it sound just as tricky. im goin for an competion quality install here and so i think a good layer or 2 of damp will do the trick. just finished the mdf baffles to fit my 6.5" woofers in the stock 5.25 location. its kind of a nigger rig but sould work just fine...
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damn thats hardcore.... ill see what i can do.
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i was wondering about doing the outer door skin. so a layer on both? my car seems to get alittle moisture in the door from rain. will that be a problem after applying?
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ive got a pretty good size door on my car. i figured 8-10 per layer but i havent made any messurements. i gona order the 40 sq ft of damp. so i can get 1 complete layer on each door and use the rest equally, and as most effective as possible.
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SSA 18" Prototypes.....vids
lithium replied to Mark LaFountain's topic in Sound Solutions Audio (SSA®)
kick ass -
k thanks. hope to selling my spare assassin and placing an order in 1-2 weeks.
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im guessing it take about 8-10 square foot of it to cover a door. so sould i go with 2 layers of damplifer or 1 layer of pro??
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thanks for the comments those are some great idea's ill post what i deside to do. im just hoping i get get my speakers to fit where i want them. but thats another story
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i got 50' (overkill but i got it cheap) of speaker wire for my new components. i ran my power on the left and rca's on the right. which side sould i run the speaker wire on? does anyone ever leave the crossovers close to the amp so they dont get damaged? it would require me to run x2 wire tho... my components are pg 6.5" rsd's. amp is kx250.2 (mounted behind rear seat)
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so runing speaker wiring by the power and rca's will not induce noise? im gona get all the wiring ran tonite so its ready for the speakers monday.
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Ported sub enclosure - Transient response?
lithium replied to Biowaste's topic in Subwoofers / Speakers
My plan was to run some PG rSD 6.5"s comps installed in properly sealed and deadened doors and to cross them around 75hz. That, plus a 12" either sealed or ported in the trunk. Do you think that would get me the midbass I'm looking for? In the most cost effective way of course... I'm heavily considering just dumping the kick pods and running an a-pillar/door setup. Over the years, imaging just isn't very important to me while driving. The time alignment on my HU should be enough to satisfy my listening needs. Thanks man! -Bio seems like alot of ppl are picking up the pg Rsd's. including myself. im basicly gona be runing the same set up as you(pg's and a 12). my sub is a 12" aa arsenal runing sealed. my head unit is a sony POS but i just try to work with what i got. gona be geting some deadening for the doors too. i have my sub in a ported box just for fun right now. its pretty accurate. i always thought ported would sound like chit but i think a better sub installed right would sound pretty good. the Rsd's will be in next week and will be runing a kicker kx250.2 to them. -
i dont know chit but you could probly go active with that money... idk but if i had some cash thats what i would do.
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i got a pair of 6.5' rsd's on the way(sould be in this week or early next week). runing a kicker kx250.2 (2004 refurb i got for 73$ shipped) pretty budget orriented install. ill let ya know how they sound but im sure someone else will find you a better pair of components they would fit your price range better.
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NEW LAW!!!! (important read) everyone please
lithium replied to scizzle's topic in Subwoofers / Speakers
heres some more words to live by from another thread. 'With great power comes great responsibility" ~theabunai -
NEW LAW!!!! (important read) everyone please
lithium replied to scizzle's topic in Subwoofers / Speakers
a wise man once said, "you ant breaking the law if you dont get caught." -
i won the bid on a kicker kx250.2 and ordered my pg rsd's. i think 70$ shipped for the amp is a pretty nice deal. but i have some dumb questions i would like to get some comments on. how much wire does it ussually take to get from the trunk to the front doors in a sedan? what gauge sould i run? any tricks to running speaker wire like how to stay away from noise, etc? would u recommend doing a distro block for the power or can i just run the +12 off the terminal on the cap to the speaker amp (as well as the sub amp)?
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im seeing some great reveiws for this cheap set of comps. the stock locations in the doors is a 5.25 and i can get the pg rds-5cs for 80$ shipped. i havent found a set of 6" anywhere but i did find a 6.5" set on ebay for 120$. is 40$ worth the money? will the difference in size make much difference? does anyone have a better price for the 6.5" or 6"? id like the added midbass but for another 40$ idk if i wana spend that on speakers or the amp... im also not sure if i can get the 6.5" in the door. the 5.25s are mounted in a plastic (not sure how to describe it..) extrusion in kind of like a kick... but anyways there is hole behind that plastic thing which may, along with a baffle, be big enough to fit a 6 or 6.5. ill check when i take the speakers out to make sure before i buy. if i can get a set of either the 6 or 6.5 for 100 i would jump on them but im not sure if 120 is worth alittle extra midbass...or is it? i think i found ppl to buy all my speaker so that 90$... and im gona try to get a kicker amp off ubid for as little as maybe 50 shipped. ive been watching that site and ppl are geting amps liek 200.2s for ungodly cheap prices in the 40$ range!!! ill probly add an extra warrenty with the factory warrenty because their refurbs.
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i wish lol.... i dont have the money for that.... im thinking alittle kicker amp from ubid.com. ive seen some goin real cheap. but im not sure how much power i sould run to the speakers... i was thinking about geting a kicker 100.4 or 200.2 im thinking i can pull a lucky bid off and get one really cheap.
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just ordered my speakers now i need to track down an amp and some wire
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i think i like it sealed more for the music i listen to. the ported box is nice for alittle more spl. ill probly just switch between the 2 depending on my mood. think ill try the assassin the ported box sometime too.
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using win isd (im a noob with it so im checking with all you) aa recommends a 2.2 cubic foot box tuned to 33 hz but some one on here recommends a tuning frequency of 29. i used 2.2 cubes for the net and tuned it to 29 hz and picked a slot port with a hight of 8 inches a width of 1inch and a lenght of 8.13 inches. external dimension are 28" L x 16" h x 12.5" d sub displacement and port displacement where include. the port seem really small but again i have no idea being my first ported box design. i have done several sealed but that very staight forward.
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ive read afew "big three how to guides" on sites and forums. guess i can start with what i am runing in the car. kenwood excelon x10d -- 600rms tsunami 1.2 farad cap **adding small 2 channel no more then 250rms (total)** 1 run- kicker 4 gauge battery---- car was baught used. evidence of this being a second battery however it is not a deep cycle i believe the stock alt is like 105 amps (not sure though) ok now with the questions. some one mensioned that a cap isnt needed becasue its just putts a bigger strain on the electrical system. however after installing the cap i noticed better quality proformance from my subs. according to some websites i have read a cap can even out the alts output. so this is what i assume happened. see bcae1.com.... that being said, cap or no cap??? what guage sould i run? what is some good wire? links to a site would be nice. ive got afew question about where to do the chassis to motor grounds. ill post some pictures of the engine bay. u can only get tothe alt from below so ill have to look at that too. ill post pics so i know i have the right wires or whatever.