lithium

this got me alittle mad!!!! idk how well it will show from this crappy camera but there looks like there was some damage from shipping.... i looked it over and it seem like its just the lip of the end of the basket so there's really no damage.. does anyone think i should contact madisound about this or just take some pliers and bend it back? next up is alittle defect on the same sls. looks like some paint peeled and theres alittle rust so it must have been like this from factory... it doesnt really bother me but i still might contact madisound and see what they might do about it the whole gang together w/ a cd for size comparison another next to my pb co2 tank new battery to chassis ground. i used the factory location but i cleaned it up real good. streetwires side post battery terminal FTW! shitty pic of where the sls will find their new home

well i got alittle done, was only out there about 2 hours.. i did the battery ground to chassis. i also tried to kill this nasty little rattle in my driver side door.... i know its gona be even worse as soon as i get the sls in there... but i was hoping to get it taken care of before then... afew pictures will be posted shortly... sorry about the quality. ill get a real camera out when there's something worth taking a pic of haha

ok after a bit of research ive decided to try something alittle different then the standard 2 way with a mid and tweet. what i'd like to attempt will use a midbass with a small full range driver. current stuff equipment- Clarion DXZ785USB, kicker 100.2, kicker 250.2, pg rsd 6.5" components. door treatment- 2 layers of raammat on inner and outer, plus a layer on door panel speaker location- mids in doors, tweeters in diy a-piller pods aimed towards the middle (driver sides about 30 degrees off axis) sub stage- AA arsenal but usually i have it turned down and blended in unless im feeling like some rap... --------------- plan is to throw the biggest and baddest midbass in the door that i can and either mount the full range, in a similar manner as the tweeter, in the a-piller or try some kick pods... what im trying to achieve is a easy to implement sound stage where id have great midbass and a detailed midrange with a soft high end. others who have tried this say it requires less tuning then comparable "normal" 2 way set ups. also with the current 2 way im am severely off axis to the driver side mid.. like 80 or 90 degrees off lol, listening preferences- metal, rock, alternative, (bands like metallica, nirvana, alice in chains, the mars volta, sound garden, megadeth, etc) ---------------- budget 200 or so.. ---------------- install specifics- stock location was 5.25" but i made a mdf baffle to fit 6.5s.. 8s would be cool but im not sure if i wana cut up my doors or not, YET... depth wise, with my current baffle, im somewhere close to 3.25 inch available. i dont want to rule speakers out on depth just yet so lets say i can get anything in there up about 4inch mounting depth. ========= speaker selection time!!! midbass!... these will only have to play as high as 200~ hz tops, could go higher if anyones think they should peerless sls 6.5" link mli-6.5" AA carbon 7" Tang Band W6-1139SI 6.5" (its a sub but for some reason i thought these could play up a tad higher... i think i read it on diyma... ill try to find it) link open to suggestion here, but im leaning hard on the peerless sls... full range... i was thinking 3 inchers here Fostex FF85K 3" Full Range link Tang Band W3-1364SA 3" Bamboo Cone Driver link i pretty much stopped looking after seeing the fostex, looks very capable, from its specs and what others have said.. -------------- well, sorry for the long post guys... if anyone manages to get this far down the page id appreciate some input!! ill be posting some pics shortly

oh, did i mention that these sls's are pucking beautiful!!!!

its all here! god damn these are some beefy speakers! honestly i dont know what to do.... put these in my car or mount them on my wall like pieces of art! haha ill start my build tomorrow night by getting the doors ready and plan how im going to attack these 8"... maybe ill take some time to get my amp rack in order... build log goin up shortly

Yeah, I was going to say it may function well as a noise absorber so you may want to put it back on. As for your sound deadener, along with flat panels that may resonate I think you also want to cover any holes in the door panel with it (just not the ones on the bottom of the door that allow water to drain out. That way the speaker can use the whole inside of the door as a sort of enclosure, IB style. It usually helps the midbass quite a bit. yep, got the doors sealed up pretty good. 1st time doing it so there room for improvement but it deff was a big help. ill get some kinda glue and put that foam back on then.

ya the door cards had some of that stuff that looks kinda like what you would use under a carpet. (random color padding shit..) i dont think it does anything so ill keep it off. maybe ill add some additional barrier later, im looking in to mass loaded vinyl w/ a decoupler... im broke for awhile so i guess i have plenty of time to research haha good luck with your build jono

ahh i see point, sorry i dont have much advice to give ya. still new to this stuff myself..

i tried alittle something different with my speaker selection, as explained in my post here. before i decided to do things this way i was just going to do a simple mach5 mli 6.5s (or AA carbons) and some seas tweets. im still new to this kinda stuff id also recommend the hu im using (listed in my link) if u dont want to spend to much but still want something thats pretty decent. its actually only about 140 on sonicelectronix.com... i payed 200 right before xmas, then it dropped its price in January... the disadvantage to this hu is the display is hard to read if theres some glare. then again, if u have the budget for something like the pioneer 880prs or something like that id probably spend the extra bills for it,

first thing id do to that prefab is cut the shit up and get the recommended sealed volume.. till u build a real box

he has a great review in the reviews section. start there.

the 20 or 30 bucks it would cost to do the big 3 is hellz cheaper then a cap..

from the description.. "his Oxygen Free Copper speaker cable provide superior frequency response compared to conventional speaker wire. Each conductor is composed of 294 strands of the finest copper for superb audio accuracy and flexibility. Price listed is per foot. " i think that means theres basicly 2 wires in a casing... just like the karma, which has the clear casing... i guess u got extra haha.. save it for another build or sell it to friend. your probably not out to much cash...

haha ya, M5 will have some choice words for this kid... i should just go find one of M5's other post where he pwnz someone and just copy and paste it for the OP.... save M5 the trouble. my friend literally drove around his caviler with out the muffle and out of inspection for like 2 or 3 month... it was pretty Bad ass tho... man i miss that thing, alot of good story to tell about that car

btl and 2000d will work too i guess take a look thru the build logs and see if what kinda stuff ppl do to get loud...

i got an idea... sell your car and buy a 90's chevy caviler... cut the muffler off... u can here that shit coming over a mile away!!

just ordered everything, i spent 150 with shipping for the 8s and 3s! i also picked up some extra random stuff to finish some little things up like a new power distro, a side post battery terminal so i can do the ground run on the big 3, some door clips for about half of what i pay here, and a cigarette outlet thing so i can wire up my gps's power cord real stealthy like! i also deadened the door panels with about 25-30 percent coverage... i just hit some flat spots that tend to resonate... i got a question here for anyone, my door panels had some of this stock foam stuff that covers the back of the panel... i ripped it of to put the deadening on but i was wondering if i should bother gluing it back on? and what kinda glue would i use? im also pining down some rattle around the window mechanism before the beastly sls's power up!

thanks, hope your's arrives soon. some one just pm'ed me that the 2" model, on partexpress, is selling for 9.50 each! i think ill still go with the 3" tho..

thanks m5, i think im going with the 3" peerless. and at only 30 bucks for the pair, its cheaper then 1 of the fostexs haha i think these 4 speakers will be the best upgrades ive made to my system so far! ill start a new build log for this stuff and afew other things im planning aswell...

ok ladies and gents, the 8s are good to go! peerless sls ftw! however, im still debating between the 2 and 3 inchers... leaning towards peerless here aswell. 3" is 15 bucks each 2" is 20 bucks each but i dont really care about 10 bucks the only two differences i see are a bump at 10k on the 3" 's graph and the 3" being able to play alittle lower. i believe the sls will make it up in to the 200-300 hz range, if im not mistake. any advice? id like to order tomorrow/ this weekend!

mach 5 ixl ';..;'

thanks for the info on the peerless 3". ill deff consider it. anyone is welcome to post other drivers that might work better!

im pretty sure that fostex can get down pretty damn low based on what others have said about it (i think one guy had it crossed as low as 165hz if i remember correctly). ill get back to u guys with some measurements for the midbass this weekend. i may even attempt a baffle with some left over mdf just for fun.

if i use the 3 inch in the same manner i am using tweeters now (with the end caps) i could use a larger threaded rod and potentially make it ib behind the a-piller... ill get some measurements on the end cap i would use for the both a 2" and 3" full range to find out about how much air space id be looking at. ill get some more info up in a day or two, thanks for the help so far.

found a pick of the door with the rsd's in.. vertically will be tight but if i move the woofers placement to the right it might be good, im also considering removing the plastic part of the door panel and cutting it down alittle so its not in front of the speaker. furthermore, if i can move the mid into the door more (ie. further from the panel) if could create even more clearance but a mid like the sls, with a mounting depth of about 4 inches, may not work... any suggestions?