lithium

i wonder if the gov't will consider stimulating my amp purchase? lol cash for clunkers pos amps???

50.4 is looking good right now, or a 100.4 if it fits budget. using an amp to process an active setup, as i've been told, isnt ideal but hey if it can do the job then why not haha... plus sundown amps are sexy as hell

this is kinda ironic but ill post m5's build. great example of how to install. My link hears some stuff on tuning My link some other good info My link time for sleep, hope this helps.

AA sells a 7in carbon fiber mid, i almost went with it myself. you would then pick a tweeter to go along with it, i think a seas tweeter is recommended by most. mach 5 also has a very nice mid which would also be paired with a tweeter. AA is dealer based only so you would have to go through the dealer to get the speakers. if you would really like to read up on setting up an active front stage i can find you some stuff to read on it. ill find you something quickly before i go to bed here.

I would probably spend up to 300 on speakers. I was going to get the 100.4, also I figure if I can get the same amp yet refurbished with the same warrenty at a cheaper price I might aswell do it.... x2 on the amps, good choices there. picking components is pretty tough, its so subjective... i feel, now that i went active, that i can beat any component set over like 250 bucks with diy drivers at half the price... have you done any deadening in the doors yet? (sorry if i asked already)

try velco, you can buy the stuff at walmart (around the sowing section), it comes with the hook side and the fluffy side backed with adhesive in strips or small circles.

give this a read. diyma

i liked my pg rsd 6.5 components, midbass was excellent for rock/metal while the midrange was not to bad. tweeters came off alittle to bright but its really install dependent. only about 70 or 80 shipped but if you have more budget headroom then im sure there are better options. whats your budget for the speakers? assuming your getting the sundown 125.2/100.2 or 50.4 for about 200 bucks. (i assume your buying from db-r because you mentioned the 100.2 above, instead of 125.2, which is the new version.)

I have the same problem. Been thinking about a 3 way with solid mid bass drivers. Curious to what is suggested for you. i went with a 2 way myself, sls 8in midbass in the doors and a 3in full range, on axis, in the a piller. much simpler then a 3 way for a beginner like myself.

you say you went active but you still baught passive component speakers? what speakers are you running up front? link to your thread where m5 helped you would be helpful too. on the install side you will want to seal the access wholes in the doors FIRST. then we can talk about the rest

good choice on the amp for those 2ohm components. (if you change to a 4 ohm component set id recommend a 50.4) how did you arrive at picking that set specifically? i would suggest you look into other components, maybe some searches and reviews that might steer you to a better set for the money (just to be safe). how much did you find those speaker for?

Well I thought one or the other may be better when talking about silk or metal tweeters. Anyway I have no idea still. I guess I will just have to go to a shop and have them match up some speakers to the amp I want. I know plenty of stores here will charge like 200 for decent speakers but 800$+ for a shitty 250 watt amp so I am in a bind here I guess. go to the shop and listen to some speakers, compare sets with metal tweeters vs silk tweeters. take a cd with your favorites songs and give them a good listen. let us know which you like more. if you have some friends with install or if the shop has can demo you something in car do that too. picking speakers is very subjective, what you like may not be what someone else likes. dont worry about picking the amp, that part is easy. (relatively speaking)

Ok goals 1. Sound good 2. Keep up with my Xcon so I can hear voice 3. Be clear 4. Help me understand what the hell I am doing for future setups. Sorry M5 I just have never done any of this and decided its time for an upgrade. sounds like you want a passive comp set since your hearing will be gone before you could learn enough to do an active setup. haha jk maybe you could try a passive set for now and continue to read up on active processing. then experiment with running that same set active. you could try something cheap like a set of pg rsdc 6.5s, they go for about 70 or 80 bucks i believe. this is just an idea, imo, it would be a good way to learn more about this stuff in a more hands on approach.

Well with my research, I found that active sounds better, and gets louder, Also has a lot more play wth tuning which frequencies for each speaker. Now if my h/u is capable of going active I would like to do a 3 way set up. 6 1/2 midbass in the doors , 3" fullrange in the stock 4X6 mount, and tweeters in the a-pillars. I need opinions on what speakers/tweets to get. I mostly listenin to rap, rock, an heavy metal. I would like to go 3way active if possible if not then 2 pairs of tweets, 1 in 4X6 1 in the a pillars. Thanks in advance. Ouch, that isn't a 3 way. Please read some more or ask questions. - never run two pairs of tweets, it will sound like ass -4x6's are generally useless -a 3 way should consist of drivers that specialize in a certain passband. In general you want to find a mid that can play as much of the frequency range as possible -generically speaking your first attempt at active will sound WAY worse than the same set passive. It is far from trivial to implement. -there are very few 6.5" midbasses, normally that is a midrange and I'll add a really crappy size for a midrange You are confused. Stop posting options and instead ask for advice based on what space, budget, and listening preferences you have. If you continue down the path you are on it will fail. what im geting from this post is that he is doing exactly what your telling him to do. im pretty sure this is why he posted it in the first place if im not mistakin. hes asking questions and learning about stuff. m5 just comes off alittle rough, if you read the how to post section it give you a pretty good idea of how your suppose to inform "us" as to what you are trying to achieve with your build.

Ok goals 1. Sound good 2. Keep up with my Xcon so I can hear voice 3. Be clear 4. Help me understand what the hell I am doing for future setups. Sorry M5 I just have never done any of this and decided its time for an upgrade. sounds like you want a passive comp set since your hearing will be gone before you could learn enough to do an active setup. haha jk

m5! laying down the pwnage! your on a roll tonight! IMHO caps with flashy led displays = useful lol

go for the gold! lol

i dont think u mention what this is going in but u have to look into you mounting depth for the all your speaker location. i would really recommend u try to fit a 8" midbass in the door or kick. id also like to recommend peerless sls 6.5 or 8" for your midbass drivers. if you cant fit those then maybe look into dayton 8". i run peerless sls 8s and a peerless 3" fullrange in a 2way set up. im very pleased with everything so far and i find no reason to have a tweeter since i am still new to active processing and the tuning involved. i would not recommend buying a components set and running it active. imo i think you can do much better with diy drivers, for the money. you also mentioned running 2 tweeter,this is big no no. 2 speakers playing the same frequency creates cancellation. i assume you brought up that option because listen to your music loud? 2 tweeters will not help, you will have to use more power (which the sundown amp can easily provide) with the appropriate driver. if you want to run the 3 way id recommend that you use the 100.4 bridged (or 125.2 if you havent purchaced it yet) to some big ass midbasses and get a 50.4 for the mid and tweeter. oh you will also need to do a REALLY good deadening job in the doors/up front if you want to get the most out of this. if you go 2 way the 100.4 should be good enough power wise. do some more research on setting up an active front stage and ask plenty of questions. i think, if like me, you enjoy your front stage build more then sub stage.

you guys better keep making amps when im out of college and have some cash flow!!!

i believe he has an shit load of these guys left... i wish i could pick one up myself!

so your budget is 800 for just the speakers? have you thought about going active with that amp or do you plan to bridge it to a set of components?

sorry ive been so lazy here guys. cell phone pics for now, ill take real ones later. sooo, progress wise, im finished with the midbass! it took almost the remaining matt i had left to deaden up the doors... but their solid as hell now. id say 97% of the rattles are gone and the remaining 3% are caused by my sub when its turned up louder then it should be. all i needed to do was open my major access hole back up and deaden the rear side of the internal panel (the piece the mids are mounted to). after sealing it up i added the 2nd pound or modeling clay around the baffle as well. modeling clay FTW! next up will be cleaning up the full range install and new amp rack.

well i guess ill get this started tonight before hitting the hay.. car- 00 Oldsmobile intrigue plan- install new front stage, finish up amp rack, paint sub box, use some more deadening and other products (expanding foam) to kill remaining rattles. equipment- 3" peerless fullrange, 8" peerless sls, AA arsenal 12" (2.2 cubes @ 30hz), kicker 100.2, kicker 250.2, kenwood excelon x10d, clarion DXZ785USB currently i have pg rsd comps running active, doors are deadened with raammat. the trunk also has a layer of raammat w/ some dynamat extreme back there too. amp rack is mounted upside down under rear deck. picture tomorrow

looks like a bitch man, good luck

i dont see why these should be used IF you seal your door properly so the rear wave doesn't enter the cabin.