lithium

videos are worthless to determine performance. what kind of music do you listen to? sorry if this was asked before but if all you ever listen to is rap then i really dont see a point in adding midbass to a system too keep up with those subs...

looks like google sketch up

you would probably want to have the fans in a push-pull kind of set up, blowing across the amp. what size is your wiring? is the ground good? do you have the amp's gain set properly?

picture might help us give you recommendations

drop the 6x9s and bridge 4 channels to the polks upfront, watch your gain so you dont smoke them haha.

no problem, glad i could help haha. sounds like your set for now, let us know your results.

try removing the rear speakers (temporarily) to see if you gain any output. depending on that, you will know what mods you will want to make to the rear deck. id recommend you remove the rear fill unless you absolutely need it....

If i take those speakers out, there will be nasty holes, but maybe ill get more bass in the cabin, ill try that. you could make it look like the speakers are still there by covering the holes with grills of some kind.

ouch 550, i assume you can beat that from another site, crutchfield is almost always overpriced. you should also look into the Pioneer Premier DEH-P800PRS, which you can get under 400 and seem to have most of feature your probably looking for in an active hu. maybe try tracking down the older model Pioneer Premier DEH-P880PRS to save cash, but it doesn't look like your hurting tobad... then there is always the alpine hu and the h701 processor that is very popular aswell.

i dont know anything about those speakers but if your talking about a FRONT end (usually refered to as the front stage) you are only talking about 1 set of components up front. so, no need at all for you to purchase a 2nd set for the rear. if you need rear fill get something cheap. I am using "Front End" as a term as all the speakers inside the car. Or should I be using the term as only the driver and passenger speakers? front stage is the speakers in the drive and passenger front doors, rear stage (idk if this is called rear stage but i assume it is) or often referred to as rear fill would be speakers in the rear deck or rear doors, and sub stage would be the subs.

I just joined the Image Dynamics Forum to get some more info on the horns since I cant find any info on thier website, so I appreciate ya for the help. As Im doing more research Im noticing that the Eminence Alpha-6C are more geared to mid-ranges than mid-bass speakers, as I read on Image Dynamics forum this is what Eric said "The horn is a very high efficiency speaker with controlled dispersion pattern designed for the inside of the car. ( model dependent) They play from 600 hz up to 20 Khz so they cover the range of a small midrange and tweeter but at much higher efficiency. So no tweeter necessary just use with a good efficient mid-bass driver." So should I look at switching my speakers out with some better mid-bass speakers, add-on some mid-bass speakers to this install or would my current Eminence's(81-5,500Hz with a paper cone) be acceptable? The Eminence Alpha's really sound like computer speaker bass instead of some nice mid-bass but Im satisfied with how they sound within the realm of my system, but if I were to turn my subs off its another story; basically Im just wondering what would you reccomend or do in this case? Thankx what kind of deadening job have you done to your doors? midbass wont improve without a good sealed up door. assuming you haven't deadened them yet id recommend you do so and then decide if you need to replace the mids after. by the way, i dont know anything about the mids you have now, so i cant comment on whether or not you should expect antiquate midbass or not.

i dont know anything about those speakers but if your talking about a FRONT end (usually refered to as the front stage) you are only talking about 1 set of components up front. so, no need at all for you to purchase a 2nd set for the rear. if you need rear fill get something cheap.

unless you can design your own custom set of passive crossovers you will have to get 6 channels of power, one per speaker, and go active. just one big (8 + inch) midbass per side would probably keep things more simple for you aswell.

get a 50.4 and bridge it

buy 1300 worth of stuff, sell it off, and buy something better then what they offer....

ewww let me beat m5 to it. here's alittle physics lesson. Do not add multiple speakers playing the same frequencies! when you add more speakers that play the same frequency you get cancellation. which is one of the reason to remove the rear speakers. (if you want the sciency answer w/ pictures and stuff i can get that for you) in short adding more speakers wont make your car louder. what your going to want to do is power 1 set of component speaker (or, imo the better option involving an active setup), a mid and tweeter per side (or a mid, midbass, and tweeter for a 3way), and throw alot of power at them. the problem is you have to find a set that can handle the power. (you can stick a pair in the rear doors, i would just stick some coaxil and put a switch on them so you can turn them off when you dont have other ppl riding with you. i dont see any reason you need them back there otherwise) idk how loud you need your speakers to be... but ill give you the warning now that you are, most likely, about to cause permanent hearing loss.... to be blunt, your list of stuff below in a waste of cash and wont meet your goal...

a cons would be having to run to the back of the vechical to change some settings then go back up front to see if they worked out better... i've never done active off the an external processor but id probably have to recommend an indash unit.. although a 360.2 might be nice, however i've never researched it. (way outa my price range...) i also dont see any TA with those... by the way, what exactly are your plans for this system?? ..infact answer this question first!

those holes in rear deck looks like someone was trying to solve the old "how to get more bass into the cabin" problem. pull those rear speakers out, you dont need them anyways. otherwise leave them in and try sub back port back. another idea is moving the box around in the trunk, start with it up against the back seats and move it towards the trunk lid till you find the sweet spot.

true, very true. im liking your idea here. ill see what i can find..

ok guys im starting a thread here to discus some real cheap amp, new and used, that would be acceptable for a budget setup like mine. also, the new option must have some significant advantages for justifying the purchase. i have to run off shortly so i cant type up to much right now. what i have now is a kicker zx100.2 and kx250.2 powering sls8's and peerless 3" full range. my dad is interested in the 100.2 for 30 bucks (baught for 50) and my bro is interested in the 250.2 for 70 (paid 90) and im willing to throw in 100 bucks tops for a $200 budget. some things that id like to get out of this are, 1 a good quality amp that i can expect to last thru college (3 years), expandability (possibly a 3 way front stage), more power for added head room (on the midbass of course) but so far the amp that caught my attention is JL AUDIO E6450 six channel. 200 bucks shipped to my house. (i would be bridging 4 channels for midbass) opinions? im thinking my budget is too low to justify and upgrade but i like the simplicity of the jl 6 channel and other powerful 4 channels vs multiple amps.

go with the 100.4, db-r.com has them refurbished with 1 year warrenty for 265 ish. as far as active vs passive. you can definitely do better running active but you have to educate your self alittle bit before hand. here is alittle piece on why its better. if you are willing to learn how, active is the way to go. if your not ready to learn how to set an active front stage right now but maybe down the road still get the 100.4. if your just looking to toss in a set of speakers save some money and get a 125.2 another option for an amp for active, kenwood's kac-x4r. all the xover stuff plus time alignment plus eq (if i remember right) BUT, from what i've heard, is alittle overrated power wise... i should also add here, an active capable hu is way easier for tuning.

i think im beginning to smell a change in the sub stage depending wether or not get a mj 18 motor off a guy in the FS section... :cough: ib :cough: for now i think ill keep the 250.2 but i will be selling the 100.2 to my dad, i owe him for helping with building boxes and using his tools and all that stuff. so ill get a kx100.2 to match the kx250.2 The 100.4 is a great amp!! I love mine. Which radio do you have? its a clarion dxz785usb, great CHEAP active hu.

its a nice amp but i already have active with the hu im using. i think a 100.4 would be an awesome amp down the road tho.

haha if i could find ppl to buy all 3 of my amps and my sub w/ box i think i would jump on it... but then i really wouldnt need a 6 channel since i wouldnt have a sub to power lol

9thanks for posting guys, im think my budget wont allow for a reasonable upgrade. i think i'll go ahead and sell the zx100.2 to my dad (i owe him one anyways) and pick up a kx100.2 so i have almost a matching set up amps if not for the kenwood powering the sub. the 250.2 is just enough for the sls for now i think... anymore ideas would be helpful