lithium

sounds good to me, ill see what kinda of space my friend has for 1 or 2.

why not get subs that can play from 30-100???

respectably, why would you do that? 3 10's have hardly any more cone area then a 2 12's and the cost wouldn't justify any gain in output, if it was even audible... edit: the load at the amp would also be at 1ohm vs 1.33 the only thing about 3 10's would be that they can take more power then the same 12 inch version but with the same budget you can get a different model 12 that can handle the power....

just incase u missed this, and to clear up misconceptions, the btl would be louder (assuming equal install, etc). im not sure if anyone pointed this out, (and please correct me if im wrong) but the btl, due to having the strongest motor force, would be a more effective use of power. (anyone who says your not giving it enough power is full of shit, u dont need x amount of watts for the sub to make noise) i think this was the point m5 was trying to make but if im wrong correct me or delete this.

just do a frigin huuuuge assed (big motor) sub like a btl or something, reverse mount the bitch and call it a day...

your going to want to deff. budget some of that $$$ for deadening if your firing thru just the rear deck. idk about the re's but others have had great success with ssa driver w/ your music preferences. with only 1 of either of those amps your could save alittle cash and get a single 12 or 15. there are alot of subs to choose from so listen around and read some reviews. also look into what you need to do electrical wise to run the amp you pick. big three will deff be need atleast...

interested in one for a friend. any links to reviews or other data or comparions?

theres tests on the sundown amp. rated at 1200rms but puts out 1500rms. if u go to the sundown section u can find more data.

the 10 looks promising, was hoping for something even less power consumption. thinking of going to 1 4ch amp that will do the highs on 1 + 2 and sub on 3/4 bridged. so probably 100-150 rms to work well with the highs also(amp wise). something kinda like what the w0's were.... the new w0 on ebay are ~60 shipped i think... forgot that on my list i think i read some good reviews on them...

you wont find much love for eD on ssa haha. honestly the extra 35 bucks? not that much money...

parts-express.com --> tang bang 8's or dayton hf 8 or 10 maybe a pair of re8's off ebay for under 100 shipped ive heard about jbl gto... not sure on that one tho kicker l7 or l5 .... might be ok for what your looking for actually these are what i've been looking into for my friends single cab s-10

i've played around with spray foam (like great stuff from lowes or hd) in my brother's can and my own. helped kill some rattles in the truck lid. might be worth buying a can or 2. just be smart about using it.... dont let it fall on the carpet or get it on your hands lol. also dont spray too much at a time it expands a fair amount.

active X2!!!!!!

go with 24 in^2, there would be no real benefit of going with more port area because it would, most likely, not have be an audible increase in output (there is also a point of too much port area..) good luck with the new box. -lithim

<<<<<< fails at reading... carry on sir

i have the newer version, which seems to be identical but im not sure if it has all the xover settings. id say, for 100 bucks, its a great deal. here are some pro's and con's... first the pro's - TA in the head unit is a great feature!! seems pretty rare to have it in such a low cost model.. - easy to use (navigating the menu's are easy, the slider is will grow on you!!) - ipod control is great (note on the usb, u can plug your ipods usb right in and it will controll the ipod. this will also work with any other storage device, like a thumb drive or even a portable HD) - ability to turn off internal amp for better sound quality - customizable color display - design isn't very flashy (deters theft) now con's - display sucks when you have a glare - this unit, after check into it, do not seem to have the xovers like the new model. - design is not that appealing to some ppl id say, if you running passives and do not plan to run active OR if u already have an separate active processor (via amps, etc), this will be a great unit. for about 150 you can get the new model bnib.... for 100 i dont think you can beat this HU.

take the rear speakers out for a min and see if u get more output.. if it is significant we can help u with ideas to cover up those holes in the rear deck. you could deaden the trunk, i bet it needs it!!. umm then theres the front stage if your ready for that?

what kind of sub is it? can u post pic???

those amps look nice, never seen them before.... what are the specs? if their all 2 channels i would use on big amp per mli65 and the small amp on the tweeters.

! the kx3's crossover frequency range is 35-400 hz so this wont work... as far as speakers go, a 3 way is not what your looking for. go with the mil's and a pair of tweeters. what your goin to need a 2 way xover that can bandpass the mid and highpass the tweeter.

have you done this yet? Yes I have noticed where my car lacks bass at but its not a biggie ( I do listen to rap, r&b and old school r&b with some Citizen Cope here and there). Yeah I know videos are worthless for viewing performance just wanted to see what they could potentially offer sound wise (I do know that people use different power ranges and frequency levels and every install is different). I appreciate you correcting me about what mid-basses do, what you said was a better way of what I was trying to say (my mind said what you did but my typing it out was off). Im gonna save the mid-bass Idea for another install in the future and Im set on mid-ranges and tweeters as my front stage, Thanks Lithium your the man with quick and logical responses. sounds good man, good luck!

Yea wus up i would like to hear the words i would like for it to be crystal clear but at the same time i dont want to lose any bass because it does pound.Thanks for any help or suggestions I would take those 6x9's out and sell them, go buy you some tweeters to go upfront with those 6.5" polks and if that doesnt help then its time to upgrade the 6.5" speakers. what would u upgrade with and if i take the 6x9 out do i replace them with anything or just leave the holes empty also i did order some horns i being hearing good things about them. thanks for all of your help leave them open, lets the bass get into the cabin better. put grills over the holes if there exposed (makes it look like there is a speaker there but there really isn't)

Yea wus up i would like to hear the words i would like for it to be crystal clear but at the same time i dont want to lose any bass because it does pound.Thanks for any help or suggestions I would take those 6x9's out and sell them, go buy you some tweeters to go upfront with those 6.5" polks and if that doesnt help then its time to upgrade the 6.5" speakers. what would u upgrade with and if i take the 6x9 out do i replace them with anything or just leave the holes empty also i did order some horns i being hearing good things about them. thanks for all of your help leave the holes. cover them with a grill if you want to cover them up but dont block them off.

in bold ^^^^. incorrect, midbass is just a range of frequencies between mid range and bass. the hard part is getting an install where there is enough midbass to "keep up" with the rest of the system (ie subs). the hard part is in the installation of the midbass speakers themself, due to space restrictions. this is why you see people cutting their doors up just to put 8s in them haha. (luckly i didnt have to do any cutting ) gota get goin. im sure someone else can answer your other questions.

have you done this yet?