lithium

so it works more on a range where you can hear an increase or decrease normally, and outside that range you are less sensitive. makes sense to me

wow ok i stand corrected.. thanks for the info. u can have your thread back now op, sorry bout the jack..

dont put the kickers in your door, sell them off... even if its only like 50 bucks a piece, which would be plenty to put in some nice 8 or 10 inch midbasses. i would recommend ib aswell. also i would recommend doing a 2 way vs a 3 way to keep thinks more simple. so since a tweeter wont get low enough to play with a dedicated midbass id recommend you use a fullrange driver mounted in the kicks or a-piller.

Actually 3dB is noted as the average that a human can perceive differently. In back to back scenario's it can get closer to a dB though question: is it easier to hear a difference in say 87db to 90 db or 140db to 143db @ lets say 70hz, i would guess its easier to hear the change at a lower level, am i right? sorry if i didnt word that very well. i understand our ear are more sensitive to high frequencies but i never heard if there is a difference like i described above.. sorry for the thread jack..

besides, the smallest increase in volume u can hear is about 3 db's. mathematically, to gain 3 dbs u need DOUBLE power!

ahh thats where it is, i couldnt find that diagram. forgot about 12v...

Fly me and the W up for turkey day and get her to listen to real home audio, and eat real good food? J I only have Front L/R and my speakers you could easily buy used for $300 each and they flat out super pucking destory the blose. Pretty much anything can. Craigslist is your friend. Hmmmm well what brands are your reccomendations? For speakers as well as amps....... J There are 10x more than there are car stereo options... Also a lot of new stuff I haven't paid any attention to. Even Best Buy should have WAY better options. We shall check there again.............the issue i saw before was buying everything in pieces was more expensive than the blose buy some cheap shit off ebay and put a bose sticker on it... she'll never know!!!

ya u wire each sub's vc in series to 2ohms then wire the subs in parallel to 1ohm..

try pg rsd's for you price range. do some searches on them, i havent seen anything beat them for the money.

looks like poopy to me.. what do u need to power?

for your music preference, your gona want A HELL OF A LOT of midbass up front with you. i listen to some of the same kind of music. however with that amount of power in substage its gona be difficult to get output from the midbasses to keep up... especially if u cant get an 8 incher up front at least.... i have peerless sls 8s in my doors, personally if i didnt listen to rap from time to time id be subless right now... the whole ported vs sealed thing seems to depend on the sub itself, the car its put in, and the install.... so we really cant pick for you here, u have to figure that one out through testing...

velcro is your friend right now i have a 3" mid point source in each pillar on axis and it sounds pretty good for 10 bucks a piece. its not harsh at all, unless i put in some terribly recorded music...

yep you can do active w/ sounddown amps. id recommend you get processing at the headunit tho, its much easier to opporate when its up front w/ you, and my active hu's have extra features like TA and eq which the sundown amps dont have. but either way is still way better then running shitty passives imo something like some mach 5 mli's for mids, sold right here at ssa, which you could pair up with some nice tweets. i believe they recommend a seas' tweeter. that is just 1 example of what you could run. theres so many possibilities for speaks selection out there... your gona have to budget some for sound deaden, as well, to get good midbass out of your doors. i cant recommend a sub. check some reviews out in the review section maybe... just to add: dont buy components then run them active, buy diy drivers like recommended, way more bang for your buck this way. check out partsexpress.com and madisound.com

when i got friends riding with me, they can hear the music just fine from back seat w/o the rear fill.

TOP^^^^^

made progress some progress on my car... this is gona be a slow build

use the noob post guild lines, we can help u out better if u do. need to know music preference and all that shit first!!!

ewww and the plot thickens....

looks ok, measuring like that is fine. i think there is a rule thats says u dont want the port opening to close to the rear of a sub or get to close to the walls... just keep them like 4 inches away from anything if you can. i think square ports are sexier, thats just me tho. but round flare ports would be even nicer!

mostly m5, he got on and tore it up for like an hour straight...

take a pumpkin, cut it out in the shape of a hat, put a crown on it.... give it the dude and call him king of the pumpkins puckers

i wish i got sick or hurt more often... im way over due... like growing up i never got sick or broke anything till i was 17 and i herniated a disc in my lower back... i'll probably go another 17 years and die in some horribly sad, but hilarious way... like getting hit by a train or choking on a pretzel...

ya who care... what about the SUBBBB is he ok? lol jk, get well soon mdiz

swing batta batta batta MISS i never really use the ihop, that was like my first TOP ever haha. i think ill post more here now. but first i need to knock out this calc 3 homework...

bumpy You can't ask serious questions in the IHOP. It's against the rules. nah a serious question would be like, "what is the magnitude of a the E field inside a Gaussian sphere?" ill get the cabinet carpet i guess... Trick question the electronic field won't have a gaussian distribution as it has to roll off to the square of the radii. haha someone knows alittle physics! this stuff is alittle tough on my brain but i really need to get it down... probably a good idea since im a physics major lol