lithium

m5 is saying, and correctly so, that the distortion cause by overpowering the speaker should have been audible....

if each sub is dual 2 ohm then wire each wire to 1 ohm (separately) so all you need is 2 amps ( 1 for each sub) that make power at 1 ohm.. again you would just take sub number 1, wire it in parallel to 1 ohm and hook that up to amp number 1.. and repeat for sub 2 and amp 2.

Any idea if the RD 1000.1D can do it? If that's the case I'd be in good shape would just have to grab another one. If anyone knows of any good amps that are linkable let me know. Edit: Answered my own question the amp I have DOES have that capability which is awesome. Looks like I would just need another RD 1000.1D, if I were to go with the Avalanches. Anyone got any info on how EXACTLY to do this? I see you chain the amps through the rca's in turn sending the exact same signal to both, but what about power etc? Also, I imagine setting the gains perfectly to match would be difficult? What of all the options on the amps? why not keep it simple and run 1 amp to 1 sub?

or maybe since theres so much it will take afew days to cure lol.. or weeks..

im thinking it might have cured on the outside but not the inside kinda like backing a cake with the temp to high (burnt the outside but the inside is still doughy...) not sure what to do here but maybe you could drill holes in on the sides to let air get back there.. ( if that fails you can fill the holes back in i guess) i've never worked with so much of this at one time... probably best to let it cure as you go..

false floor its hinged so you can access the spare

Oh alright I thought it would have to be really close to the speakers. Well thanks for the help guys. Some people even mount them in the back where the amps are, it is really up to you so get a little creative correct me if im wrong but i have heard it better to mount the x-overs close to the speakers as possible or do it really matter in a long run???? no they dont have to be close at all. idk who told you that they should be but thats just a load of bullshit

could always try making your own. i've always wanted to give it a try but the basic idea is to take a piece of copper pipe and work into the shape you want (i assume you can visualize this)

i saved some scraps just in case next up is fiberglassing the 3's in the A pillers. not sure if i want to glass them directly or makes pods... first i need to figure out if i would like the mids up higher (above the steering wheel and gauge cluster) to avoid reflections or make pods (puts the speaker as far away from me as possible). i think if i go higher it will look really... really ugly! theres no depth behind the panels i never tried putting them in the kicks though. i should try it just to rule it out i guess. What car? Never hurts to try multiple locations although getting things on axis and at the right height helps. 00' olds intrigue i was looking through my photobucket but i dont see any good pics for the driver side a piller.. ill take a whole bunch later That doesn't help I have no idea what that dash looks like. My link My link My link My link My link My link Dash mounted midrange ! At least seems like you have room. Yep, corner up by where the a-pillar meets the dash. Should be easy to get a 3" pod up there i got the 3 incher in some pvc endcaps right now.. really fuggglly but functional. i cant decide how i should do the pods?? i've never worked with fg but im thinking ill just take a mold of the corners and go from there instead of trying to build them on the a pillar...

well it would depend what we are comparing here, basically the advantages of a component set are: better crossovers and independent mounting location of tweeter. if your willing to install a new set of speakers in your doors but too lazy to not mount the tweeters in different places to get a better stage then why bother going thru the trouble of replacing the speakers at all.. but if you want to make a better investment in your car stereo get a component set like i mentioned. maybe you will find that the tweeters sounds good next to the mid, you still have the advantage of a better xover. the only advantage there is to buy coaxs, imo, is that you can find them cheap as an upgrade from stock.... period if you worried about cutting your car up to mount the tweeters try this out.... go to walmart and get some velcro with the adhesive backing and stick the tweeter in the surface mount cups (using the velco patches on the back to stick the tweeter where u want them). put the tweeters close to the edge of trim panels so u can hid the wires without cutting a hole for them. (try different locations)

personally i would hunt down a set of pg rsd 6 or 6.5 in components and make a baffle for them.. very easy to install and if you dont want to dick around with mounting the tweeter somewhere just put it next to the mid on the baffle. imo theres not reason to by coax's if u can get a decent pair of components for about the same price. i owned a pair of db 6x9s and the pg's imo sounded better, had better midbass, and benefit of being a component set really improved the stage.

maybe dremel? (sp?) or sand paper drill bit with wire bush attachment steel wool lots of stuff out there that might work

found some online.. if u want good ones let me know, of what and from what angle.. etc thanks

i saved some scraps just in case next up is fiberglassing the 3's in the A pillers. not sure if i want to glass them directly or makes pods... first i need to figure out if i would like the mids up higher (above the steering wheel and gauge cluster) to avoid reflections or make pods (puts the speaker as far away from me as possible). i think if i go higher it will look really... really ugly! theres no depth behind the panels i never tried putting them in the kicks though. i should try it just to rule it out i guess. What car? Never hurts to try multiple locations although getting things on axis and at the right height helps. 00' olds intrigue i was looking through my photobucket but i dont see any good pics for the driver side a piller.. ill take a whole bunch later That doesn't help I have no idea what that dash looks like. My link My link My link My link My link My link

i saved some scraps just in case next up is fiberglassing the 3's in the A pillers. not sure if i want to glass them directly or makes pods... first i need to figure out if i would like the mids up higher (above the steering wheel and gauge cluster) to avoid reflections or make pods (puts the speaker as far away from me as possible). i think if i go higher it will look really... really ugly! theres no depth behind the panels i never tried putting them in the kicks though. i should try it just to rule it out i guess. What car? Never hurts to try multiple locations although getting things on axis and at the right height helps. 00' olds intrigue i was looking through my photobucket but i dont see any good pics for the driver side a piller.. ill take a whole bunch later

we were trying to keep costs low the 187 is pretty inexpensive. link your not looking at the same power handling (not that its an important spec to begin with) but they might model better.

why not get an IA sub from the store?

sexy

if your goals are loud then ported is recommend, that simple. will a sub get loud in a sealed box w/ 1000rms? sure.. but loud enough? thats up to you

i saved some scraps just in case next up is fiberglassing the 3's in the A pillers. not sure if i want to glass them directly or makes pods... first i need to figure out if i would like the mids up higher (above the steering wheel and gauge cluster) to avoid reflections or make pods (puts the speaker as far away from me as possible). i think if i go higher it will look really... really ugly! theres no depth behind the panels i never tried putting them in the kicks though. i should try it just to rule it out i guess.

your asking alittle too much for the W3's to keep up with the xcons haha

can you get enough space around the tire well to do a 10 ported? maybe require fiberglassing but it looks like you could pull if off...

excellent equipment.. good to see others picking up on the beefy midbass and fullrangers. im thinking i might swap my peerless 3's out for the W3's. and using the peerless for some computer speakers. how do the sls's handling that power? how low are they crossed? and are they IB or sealed?

btw great install OP

not hard to design your own box dude...