lithium

could just let it vent out, ib

if they are both 8 ohm u wire in parallel to 4 ohms, to power that it might be more effective to bridge a 2 channel amp which puts out the power you want at 4 ohms, or buy a monoblock amp in preparation of ever buying new subs.

i would stay away from RE now days. not quality stuff anymore. from my understanding the REx series is not as good as the old RE series at all... more details on install would help. for instances: will this be 4 ported or sealed? what is the box size? what are your music preferences? the offerings from sundown are looking pretty amazing, very popular right now aswell. sa 8 or the new e8 v2 would be great. i believe the sa8 is optimal in a ported box so if you have room for 2 of them ported that would probably be a fantastic setup. otherwise i would vote for the e8's if u go sealed

well done sir

lost 27 lbs eating Twinkies

no such thing as under powering man. RE is shit now days. probably not much output difference, if any, to the ear between a 10 vs 12. if your trying to save maximum space and go ported id vote SA-8. for a 10" sub its pretty much a toss up, alot of great subs mentioned. personally i like the DCON because their dead sexy.... and shallower then some of the others mentioned like the ssd i believe. cant go wrong

same thing happen with my cable provider.. i miss g4! From my understanding DirecTV wants to pay .4¢ per viewer but Comcast wants them to pay 5¢ Not too much of as loss though... It was much better when it first debuted.. now i t's just a mini spike TV true, and you can watch whatever you like on the website, so no big loss.

same thing happen with my cable provider.. i miss g4!

rf p300 kicker zx300.1 jl jl 250.1 pg rsd 300 w/ a questionable wiring kit... you might notice the kenwoods and hifonics are putting on more "power" at this price point. i doubt the kenwood can even put out rated anymore and im personally not a big hifonics fanboy. im sure there are some other options you could throw in the mix, alpine for example, but your looking for like 300 rms for 100 bucks. output wise these should be all about the same. edit: and yes lanzer is shit

figured out how to embed a youtube video TOP!

shit, looks like he caught a telephone pole. glad everyone is safe! my bro just totaled his mercury sable a week ago. he's ok but my parents are still pissed lol

good thing im driving this car into its grave!

i think you crossed the point where the equipment is now worth more then the car! congrats haha

how about bridge your amp to the component set you have now

you not going for anything close for to an sq set up. but i think your asking if you will get accurate sounding bass from 2 sa-8s on 1000watts in a ported box. assume u build the box right and install it well it will sound very good for you. if i were you i would wire the subs at 1ohm unless you plan to add 2 more subs later? if you already looking to add more subs later just get 2 sa-12 now and save some money

might aswell run one at 1ohm if the right coil configuration is available for the sa-8 as far as box just go with the largest recommended specs from sundown

found a pic online very bottom right hand side, you see the long heat sink and to the right of that u see two caps next to each other, below that is a 3rd cap, that is the one that broke off.

got a kenwood kac 9013d amp here that went into protection one day in my brother's car. it was temporarily mounted to the sub box at the time and powering a kicker l7 15 (which is now dead due to cracked magnet and shifted motor)in a ~4 cube ported box. so what happens is every time it is powered on it will go into protection. i looked the board over and i dont see anything burnt. however i did find a capacitor with one of it's leads broken off. here is what info i can get from the capacitor: 50v 47uF (microfarad), appears to under a brand ELNA, CE85(degree symbol)C which i assume means ceramic and 85C is max temp rating, right under that last line it reads 0718 which i assume is some type of product code, finally under that im seeing the letter "S" inside a circle-ish circle ( (S) <--has a flat bottom but round top) thats all the info i got right now, i tried to solder it back on but the lead is just too short. thanks for any help

thanks for the hel. maybe i can ask my electronics professor if i can barrow a 47uF cap to test it out, then buy a real replacement if that fixes the problem.

x2

any help with this would be awesome, thread

afew things i think you should do if you haven't are to check for loose wiring. that would include power, ground, battery ground, speaker wiring, etc. also sounds like you have a battery located in the rear? is that the only battery or a secondary? (check that ground btw) what are your amp settings? could it be that your trying to get too much out of that amp? im not familiar with high power systems like yours but some more info on your install could help u get an answer.

what are you using for your crossover? amp or headunit? model number would help.

Where are you in Louisiana? Best option would be to do splitters at the amp. You would lose front/rear fade, but still have Left/Right balance. L/R balance at hu but would still have fade using the gain at the amp. i believe you'll still need the splitters. u can find a cheap pair at walmart IIRC