lithium

got my deadening ordered from don (bro's car). looks like im pulling the headliner... never done it before so it should be interesting!

working on my bro's install. decided to mock up some spacers for the mid bass... good thing i did because i cant fit the 6.5 sls like i planned.. i can do 3" max depth, any suggestions? hoping to order speakers and deadening monday. edit: can be 7" diameter btw

site states about 85w RMS.... Sorry didnt look before I typed. Even still, that spec is horribly meaningless. It will have nothing to do with how loud they get, nor does it help you pick out an amp for them. Power handling specifications on mids are completely deceiving without stating what enclosure size and what frequency. You could spec it any way you want otherwise. Then of course even more useless when you realize that on the same drivers you won't hear a difference between 85w and 100w anyways the spec obviously does nothing but confuse the situation. So I could use this set with Mmats SQ2150 and not have too much power on them? I am just looking for a new comp set for my 02T/A with fully deadend doors. just learn what distortion sounds like and turn it down when you hear it...

the spec page you linked lists them as ib capable, so no reason why it shouldn't work. general rule of thumb is that they take half the rated rms when mounted IB, so 2 of them on your 1500 will be great.

i have about 150 watts on it. previously i had an AA arsenal 12" in 2.2 cubes @ 30 hz on ~500rms, which was a good bit louder, but the mj 18 blends better with the front stage. edit: i would talk to some of the other guys about output since it wasn't really a focus for my build. sealing the rear wave off is pretty important when doing this kind of install. i would talk to don of SDS to get his opinion on how best to seal off the trunk. as far as subs go, the mj 18 was not the most optimal, in terms of spec's, for ib but what it does have is a large cone and excursion capabilities. so it turned out pretty well. im not too familiar with alot of subs but, IMO, i would look into the fi ib3's and dayton ib's (cheaper then the HF's). this is a short list of ibsubs from "Cult of the Infinitely Baffled" its outdated a bit but it does list some common ib subs used in home audio.

ib can be pretty fun, here's mine w/ a mach 5 mj 18.. edit: sorry for the shitty cell phone pics. thought i took better ones.... oh and the car is a 00 olds intrigue amps are hiding under the false floor.

Some manufacturers ground through the antenna. that must be it then, he had a cd stuck and while removing it i noticed a thick gauge wire running towards the antenna.

wow i was really behind on the hop.. ordering the last pieces of my bro's build this week and got the 9855 in tonight.... nissan doesn't ground their headunits apparently lmao...

well said sir. btw, i got an icon 12 for my bro, hell of a sub! hope to have it powered up in a week or two.

Excellent piece. I still have mine, and I have the BLA for it too (which I might sell). A little complicated of a unit, but extremely tune-able. Does not have the pretty screen my 880 does, but works very well. It is considered one of the premier SQ decks of all time. thanks, ill leave it up to my bro whether or not he wants to go with an older sq deck or the more modern 9855 with ipod integration and nicer looks. fuck, i think i'd rather replace my clarion 758usb with the eclipse and find a 9855 for my bro haha

Excellent piece. I still have mine, and I have the BLA for it too (which I might sell). A little complicated of a unit, but extremely tune-able. Does not have the pretty screen my 880 does, but works very well. It is considered one of the premier SQ decks of all time. thanks, ill leave it up to my bro whether or not he wants to go with an older sq deck or the more modern 9855 with ipod integration and nicer looks.

anyone familiar with the Eclipse 8053 deck? there is one in the fs section that i might pick up for my bro's install. its an older deck so i haven't found a nice list of feature yet.

If you are running a full ranger, I wouldn't worry so much about the midbass for staging reasons. Crossing under 3-400Hz won't affect it much. I would instead consider where you can get them more volume behind the drivers, if the kicks are truly vented outside and you can seal it off that would be my pick. I'll take a better look at it soon. Thanks for the help! tried to cut some of that post down.. so im a idiot. mounting depth on 6.5 sls is 3.30" so they will fit in the doors. im not going with the kicks because they would need some work to even get sealed up well and they may vent outside but they also vent up behind the dash. anyways, i think i will go with the sls in the doors, founteks in the a piller.. question on processing. im trying to spend about 200 on the head unit. alpine cda 9855 is at the top of the list, i also know the 9853 is an option but after showing my brother them, he liked the screen more on the 9855. the price difference is not much of a difference anyways. so far i missed out on two 9855's on ebay. there is another coming up in a little over 1 day that i will try for. i was also considering some other options. im wondering on what you think of a alpine cda 105 and imprint combo? lowest price on ebay is about $235 (buy it now items). however, for about 170 you can get a 9853 with, what appears to be, the same functionality. (guess i answered my own question) pioneer prs 880 and 800 seem to be going for a little more then what i would like to spend. i think i'll try a wtb thread as well. Make sure you check the tweeter channel high-pass in case you want to use full-ranges or even a passively crossed mid / tweeter combo on that channel. thanks for pointing that out, i believe most alpine decks are stuck with a 1000hz highpass on the tweeter channel. so i went with an amp to handle the highpass on the full rangers (us acoustics usx 2080 from audioclinic). Can you use the t/a and eq without the crossover being active on the tweet? If not....ugh. tell me if this sounds about right.. you can set the slope to flat on the tweeter crossover. it involves "Setting the Response Slope for the High Range Speaker (TW SETUP)" and choosing "USER" which allows you to set a flat slope. by default it is set to "MAKER" which disables the Flat option.

If you are running a full ranger, I wouldn't worry so much about the midbass for staging reasons. Crossing under 3-400Hz won't affect it much. I would instead consider where you can get them more volume behind the drivers, if the kicks are truly vented outside and you can seal it off that would be my pick. I'll take a better look at it soon. Thanks for the help! tried to cut some of that post down.. so im a idiot. mounting depth on 6.5 sls is 3.30" so they will fit in the doors. im not going with the kicks because they would need some work to even get sealed up well and they may vent outside but they also vent up behind the dash. anyways, i think i will go with the sls in the doors, founteks in the a piller.. question on processing. im trying to spend about 200 on the head unit. alpine cda 9855 is at the top of the list, i also know the 9853 is an option but after showing my brother them, he liked the screen more on the 9855. the price difference is not much of a difference anyways. so far i missed out on two 9855's on ebay. there is another coming up in a little over 1 day that i will try for. i was also considering some other options. im wondering on what you think of a alpine cda 105 and imprint combo? lowest price on ebay is about $235 (buy it now items). however, for about 170 you can get a 9853 with, what appears to be, the same functionality. (guess i answered my own question) pioneer prs 880 and 800 seem to be going for a little more then what i would like to spend. i think i'll try a wtb thread as well. Make sure you check the tweeter channel high-pass in case you want to use full-ranges or even a passively crossed mid / tweeter combo on that channel. thanks for pointing that out, i believe most alpine decks are stuck with a 1000hz highpass on the tweeter channel. so i went with an amp to handle the highpass on the full rangers (us acoustics usx 2080 from audioclinic). Actually starting with the 9835 and 9833 higher end Alpine decks have an option to run any slope and any tweeter HPF. The Pioneer 880 on the other hand can't go lower than ~1k. oh ok, must have confused something when i was researching them.

If you are running a full ranger, I wouldn't worry so much about the midbass for staging reasons. Crossing under 3-400Hz won't affect it much. I would instead consider where you can get them more volume behind the drivers, if the kicks are truly vented outside and you can seal it off that would be my pick. I'll take a better look at it soon. Thanks for the help! tried to cut some of that post down.. so im a idiot. mounting depth on 6.5 sls is 3.30" so they will fit in the doors. im not going with the kicks because they would need some work to even get sealed up well and they may vent outside but they also vent up behind the dash. anyways, i think i will go with the sls in the doors, founteks in the a piller.. question on processing. im trying to spend about 200 on the head unit. alpine cda 9855 is at the top of the list, i also know the 9853 is an option but after showing my brother them, he liked the screen more on the 9855. the price difference is not much of a difference anyways. so far i missed out on two 9855's on ebay. there is another coming up in a little over 1 day that i will try for. i was also considering some other options. im wondering on what you think of a alpine cda 105 and imprint combo? lowest price on ebay is about $235 (buy it now items). however, for about 170 you can get a 9853 with, what appears to be, the same functionality. (guess i answered my own question) pioneer prs 880 and 800 seem to be going for a little more then what i would like to spend. i think i'll try a wtb thread as well. Make sure you check the tweeter channel high-pass in case you want to use full-ranges or even a passively crossed mid / tweeter combo on that channel. thanks for pointing that out, i believe most alpine decks are stuck with a 1000hz highpass on the tweeter channel. so i went with an amp to handle the highpass on the full rangers (us acoustics usx 2080 from audioclinic).

If you are running a full ranger, I wouldn't worry so much about the midbass for staging reasons. Crossing under 3-400Hz won't affect it much. I would instead consider where you can get them more volume behind the drivers, if the kicks are truly vented outside and you can seal it off that would be my pick. I'll take a better look at it soon. Thanks for the help! tried to cut some of that post down.. so im a idiot. mounting depth on 6.5 sls is 3.30" so they will fit in the doors. im not going with the kicks because they would need some work to even get sealed up well and they may vent outside but they also vent up behind the dash. anyways, i think i will go with the sls in the doors, founteks in the a piller.. question on processing. im trying to spend about 200 on the head unit. alpine cda 9855 is at the top of the list, i also know the 9853 is an option but after showing my brother them, he liked the screen more on the 9855. the price difference is not much of a difference anyways. so far i missed out on two 9855's on ebay. there is another coming up in a little over 1 day that i will try for. i was also considering some other options. im wondering on what you think of a alpine cda 105 and imprint combo? lowest price on ebay is about $235 (buy it now items). however, for about 170 you can get a 9853 with, what appears to be, the same functionality. (guess i answered my own question) pioneer prs 880 and 800 seem to be going for a little more then what i would like to spend. i think i'll try a wtb thread as well.

im not familiar with many tweeters, but he prefers soft dome. so we're looking at like 200 shipped for the mids alone, still worth it versus a cheaper midbass and fullrange combo? im a little concerned with the $1k budget. hu 200 amps 100 deadening 100? have to email sds yet (this is where im surprised at costs) wiring/all install shit - total- 250 hu harness + dash kit 20 ipod 15 power/gnd wire 55 rca + speaker wire 25 mdf + wood glue 40 fg + bondo cheap shit 30 voltage meter 25 distro block + inline fuse 15 carpeting + spray paint 25 350 left for subs and speakers could i get another 100 - 150 bucks out of him, sure but where should i invest it? he really likes the icon, out what i've showed him. knowing my brother he would spend more to get the sub that looks nicer. The problem you have is the pods are built, but not for anything optimal. The mid/tweet could share an active channel and just passively cross the two separate, but everything is a compromise. If the pods weren't built I'd go about it differently. oh geez i think i forgot to mention something haha, those pics where from someone else's build. the reason i was using them was as a reference since its the same car, and because you've (m5) heard the car.here is a link to the build log, its from 2007 so its been a while, sorry for the confusion. I bought the drivers for Scott's car, lol, but he had tweeters. Full rangers without I really would prefer up above the dash. agreed, the fountek should be great in the A-pillar. and they have a relatively low mounting depth compared to some other drivers, which should allow me to keep the pods smaller and less obtrusive. still on the fence with kicks vs doors for midbass.. there isn't carpet behind the stock plastic kick panel so the midbass would be vented out (no idea where to, firewall perhaps?). i could seal up the kicks as well i guess. also, i wont have to deaden the doors as much. i remember reading about how it is better to get the midbass as wide as possible for the best staging. is this true? doors are limited by a 3.25" mounting depth. If you are running a full ranger, I wouldn't worry so much about the midbass for staging reasons. Crossing under 3-400Hz won't affect it much. I would instead consider where you can get them more volume behind the drivers, if the kicks are truly vented outside and you can seal it off that would be my pick. I'll take a better look at it soon. Thanks for the help!

im not familiar with many tweeters, but he prefers soft dome. so we're looking at like 200 shipped for the mids alone, still worth it versus a cheaper midbass and fullrange combo? im a little concerned with the $1k budget. hu 200 amps 100 deadening 100? have to email sds yet (this is where im surprised at costs) wiring/all install shit - total- 250 hu harness + dash kit 20 ipod 15 power/gnd wire 55 rca + speaker wire 25 mdf + wood glue 40 fg + bondo cheap shit 30 voltage meter 25 distro block + inline fuse 15 carpeting + spray paint 25 350 left for subs and speakers could i get another 100 - 150 bucks out of him, sure but where should i invest it? he really likes the icon, out what i've showed him. knowing my brother he would spend more to get the sub that looks nicer. The problem you have is the pods are built, but not for anything optimal. The mid/tweet could share an active channel and just passively cross the two separate, but everything is a compromise. If the pods weren't built I'd go about it differently. oh geez i think i forgot to mention something haha, those pics where from someone else's build. the reason i was using them was as a reference since its the same car, and because you've (m5) heard the car.here is a link to the build log, its from 2007 so its been a while, sorry for the confusion. I bought the drivers for Scott's car, lol, but he had tweeters. Full rangers without I really would prefer up above the dash. agreed, the fountek should be great in the A-pillar. and they have a relatively low mounting depth compared to some other drivers, which should allow me to keep the pods smaller and less obtrusive. still on the fence with kicks vs doors for midbass.. there isn't carpet behind the stock plastic kick panel so the midbass would be vented out (no idea where to, firewall perhaps?). i could seal up the kicks as well i guess. also, i wont have to deaden the doors as much. i remember reading about how it is better to get the midbass as wide as possible for the best staging. is this true? doors are limited by a 3.25" mounting depth.

im not familiar with many tweeters, but he prefers soft dome. so we're looking at like 200 shipped for the mids alone, still worth it versus a cheaper midbass and fullrange combo? im a little concerned with the $1k budget. hu 200 amps 100 deadening 100? have to email sds yet (this is where im surprised at costs) wiring/all install shit - total- 250 hu harness + dash kit 20 ipod 15 power/gnd wire 55 rca + speaker wire 25 mdf + wood glue 40 fg + bondo cheap shit 30 voltage meter 25 distro block + inline fuse 15 carpeting + spray paint 25 350 left for subs and speakers could i get another 100 - 150 bucks out of him, sure but where should i invest it? he really likes the icon, out what i've showed him. knowing my brother he would spend more to get the sub that looks nicer. The problem you have is the pods are built, but not for anything optimal. The mid/tweet could share an active channel and just passively cross the two separate, but everything is a compromise. If the pods weren't built I'd go about it differently. oh geez i think i forgot to mention something haha, those pics where from someone else's build. the reason i was using them was as a reference since its the same car, and because you've (m5) heard the car.here is a link to the build log, its from 2007 so its been a while, sorry for the confusion.

im not familiar with many tweeters, but he prefers soft dome. so we're looking at like 200 shipped for the mids alone, still worth it versus a cheaper midbass and fullrange combo? im a little concerned with the $1k budget. hu 200 amps 100 deadening 100? have to email sds yet (this is where im surprised at costs) wiring/all install shit - total- 250 hu harness + dash kit 20 ipod 15 power/gnd wire 55 rca + speaker wire 25 mdf + wood glue 40 fg + bondo cheap shit 30 voltage meter 25 distro block + inline fuse 15 carpeting + spray paint 25 350 left for subs and speakers could i get another 100 - 150 bucks out of him, sure but where should i invest it? he really likes the icon, out what i've showed him. knowing my brother he would spend more to get the sub that looks nicer.

got out for a round of golf today for the first time in probably a year and a half. only played 9 holes but the swing started to come back to me.

:edit: reason i asked was to see what the reason was for you to suggest these over the peerless and dayton woofers (extended range, superior midbass, etc) 3.7" mounting depth so definitely going in the kicks. they could go from firing practicably straight across to about 60 degrees off axis (sitting in the drivers seat with respect the the driver side kickpanel). if i take the easy way out, just a mdf baffle to the stock plastic trim with little bondo/glass work to blend it in and call it a day. he put a 3" midrange in here and left room to upgrade to a 4 or 5 inch maybe.. i dont think i can get as much of an angle on axis as he did but close.

How about these? http://www.diycable.com/main/product_info.php?cPath=24&products_id=538 And whatever used sub you find that will fit box size available. i have 3-3.25" depth in the doors or about 3.75-4" in the kicks without taking over the dead peddle. so yes these would work.. also, these mids seem to be able to run pretty high, but since they will pretty off axis i should still go with a fullrange?

thanks, i think their worth a shot.

Either amp problem, or signal problem. Try new RCA's and then a different signal source. If it keeps doing it, the amp needs repair. thanks man, ill give it a shot.