lithium

how have I never seen this..

Why is the bl 12 (dark pink) jacked up? used the ts from their site.

My brother's icon RIP'd. Voice coil probably turned into a slinky. I regret installing the remote gain up front. Not sure if he'll want to recone again or upgrade. The cost of sending the sub from Michigan to me in Illinois to recone it probably isn't worth it.

lego e30 https://ideas.lego.com/projects/82788

You know what's funny ? I want a 16:9 format screen at home. And the local used computer shop has some btichin 24" HP monitors, used, at a tad over $100. shame the ultrawides are so expensive... I'd love to replace my dual setup <- goes to google ultrawide seems like a fantastic alternative to dual monitors setups. 4k could be a good option but I dont need the vertical resolution.

You know what's funny ? I want a 16:9 format screen at home. And the local used computer shop has some btichin 24" HP monitors, used, at a tad over $100. shame the ultrawides are so expensive... I'd love to replace my dual setup

i need a rub recipe. i free balled it with shit I found in my spice rack and brown sugar

<-has never made ribs in the oven no grill or smoker . came out well. probably over cooked though. 300 for 2.5hr, covered for half

ribs in the oven.. should have asked for some tips before I threw them in.

shipping from minidsp sucks. $20 shipping on a $12 dc isolator sucks. so i bought 2

I am listening to the 1337's right now FULL range Of course, mine are on axis. As for "testing" you have three main options. Sine waves, Bandpass filter white/pink noise, music. The latter being the hardest to tell frequency range, the first being obnoxious and capable of masking reality if you listen to them. With a hard cone like that you also have to worry about the breakup mode distorting your reality. ie, trying to listen to them full range and equalizing out the breakup would be good. They have a breakup that adds >10dB of gain above 10kHz. If you don't want to go through the effort of neutralizing that on these, I'd just make sure my crossover is at least 10dB down by 10-11kHz and then do your listening tests. Anything less will handicap the results with the extra gain up top. Make sure to try different slopes and see when you change the cross point if you like one better than the other. They have a sensitivity null somewhere around 1kHz or so as well IIRC. A shelf filter above that rolloff isn't a terrible idea either. Of course this assumes you have a somewhat flexible processor. Im sure the tweets can pick up the 10khz+ range. I think I understand you instructions but I haven't noticed the null above 1khz yet, but I think you can see it in the published freq response. My minidps can do shelf filters. So should I add a bit of gain above 1khz? Tangental question, does the hiccup in the impedance plot at 900-1000hz correspond to the sensitivity null? here's a link to the pdf. No gain necessary. 1k you have more car problems to deal with than driver problems. sound good. I got some garbage in the 2-4k range that needs help.

Nexus 7 gen 1 or gen 2 both work iirc, I have a gen 1.

This is what i've aquired so far; 12 dc-dc adapter, tablet, behringer uca222 DAC, OTG cable, usb hub, bluetooth remote, misc install hardware like a relay, mouting hardware (I used some straps and hot glue). You might need a dremel to make small modifications to the back of the trim panel by the usb port or get a right angle usb adapter. you can spend more to integrate steering wheel controls, add extra storage, etc. also, you need to root the tablet for the car install, which I think it pretty straight forward. Total cost, including tablet and what I listed above would be <$150.

a nexus 7 fits the double din opening perfectly. why bother with a hu?

grats

In still too scurred. Gonna have too much spy shit built in. i'm looking into what i need to turn off

mmm.. this is different

Updating to win 10...

i noticed the wide bump at 2.5khz so maybe thats why I haven't noticed the null.

I am listening to the 1337's right now FULL range Of course, mine are on axis. As for "testing" you have three main options. Sine waves, Bandpass filter white/pink noise, music. The latter being the hardest to tell frequency range, the first being obnoxious and capable of masking reality if you listen to them. With a hard cone like that you also have to worry about the breakup mode distorting your reality. ie, trying to listen to them full range and equalizing out the breakup would be good. They have a breakup that adds >10dB of gain above 10kHz. If you don't want to go through the effort of neutralizing that on these, I'd just make sure my crossover is at least 10dB down by 10-11kHz and then do your listening tests. Anything less will handicap the results with the extra gain up top. Make sure to try different slopes and see when you change the cross point if you like one better than the other. They have a sensitivity null somewhere around 1kHz or so as well IIRC. A shelf filter above that rolloff isn't a terrible idea either. Of course this assumes you have a somewhat flexible processor. Im sure the tweets can pick up the 10khz+ range. I think I understand you instructions but I haven't noticed the null above 1khz yet, but I think you can see it in the published freq response. My minidps can do shelf filters. So should I add a bit of gain above 1khz? Tangental question, does the hiccup in the impedance plot at 900-1000hz correspond to the sensitivity null? here's a link to the pdf.

You need an RTA. You could also play tones one by one and notate what your ears pickup, but it's too time-consuming and far from accurate. I've got an uncalibrated behringer ecm8000 and REW.

Question for Sean or anyone else really. What is your method for finding the bandwidth of a midrange driver? Particularly the upper limit. Driver is tb 1337, off axis in the kick panel along with dayton nd20's.

im using standard 320 mp3's not sure why vlc is having a problem. I dont notice static on every song either.

i liked the ui of vlc more than winamp but im looking for something else now obviously.

I paid $180 for my PPI. i think this minidsp unit is the equivalent of the ppi deq rather than the dsp-88r. There's not enough difference between any of them to justify more than a $20 price difference. Still too much IMO. I'm looking to buy some new dsp's I think. in between cars I had my minidsp's in a box and my dad accidentally damaged them, at least that's my current theory. I'm still diagnosing the problem but it sounds like I'm overloading the inputs with my behringer uca222 (im hearing some static and popping) but changing the jumper didn't help. bypassing the dsp and going directly to the amp fixes the issue. But there is also some dependency on air temp which is making me second guess everything. I don't think my Behringer overloads the inputs on the minidsp's in my truck. I also may have never turned it up all the way though either... Very possible my gains are hot enough to melt the fuck out of anything but I am not concerned as I don't run it hard pretty much ever. Ya I think i'll get more aggressive with the gain and see what happens. found my ghost. vlc on android. I can go from one song in vlc with static to the same file on winamp w/o static.