lithium

installed the 6.5 comps and 75x2 rms 2 channel amp today in my dads f 150. ill give something of a first impression. the only thing i can compare these to where the 5 1/4" polk db coax's installed prior and a set of pg rsd comps in my car. however my doors were deadened and his are not. its kind of late so ill make this short for now. ignore my grammar.. im sleepy the mids were mounted in the doors, tweeters were also mounted in the doors. the only decent music i had on hand was some pearl jam greatest hits. pic from google the tweeter is mounted behind the grill in the lower left. i used the angle mount and aimed them up towards the mirror/upper dash. we were in a bit of a hurry to finish up so i didn't get a chance to determine the best way to aim the tweeter. the first thing i noticed was that the tweeters are really bright. his headunit has a 7band eq which i used to make some cuts across the top. also had the tweets at -3db on the crossover. i think the problem is the mounting location/aiming. other then that, the tweets aren't too bad. i forget what the pg rsd tweets sounded like, i know i enjoyed them more then the polks. imo the aura tweets are more detailed then the polks and a bit more aggressive then the pg's. maybe after some play time and re-aiming they will calm down. i think the woofer is really were you get some good value. it's unfair to compare the pg's in a deadened door vs aura's(no deadening) but i think the upper hand goes to the aura's. i set hpf to pick up where his sub left off, about 70-80 hz. midbass is solid and on a few songs i got some buzzing from the door panel, too bad these weren't installed in a deadened door. the mid range is pretty average but possibly better then the pg set. i need to listen to some better music first. overall, i would say that the aura components are better then the pg rsd's if you can take the tweeter a bit. this set is a great value for the money. and a possible recommendation to anyone with a budget as high as 2-3 times what the aura's cost. the aura amp is fucking sexy as hell. looks like great build quality and i would recommended them! if you guys have some questions, post them.

very sexy in person. a lot of weight to them as well

:drink40:

http://www.incriminatoraudio.com/update/index.php?page=3&cat=2

i can practically max it out at least the beta, didn't buy the game yet. probably getting it after the semester ends... im getting skyrim on release day though I can max it out too, but with FPS not very enjoyable. I need a new PSU, MB, CPU and RAM. it seems this game isn't too picky with cpu and ram assuming you have atleast 4gb of ram. http://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/battlefield-3-graphics-performance,3063.html

i can practically max it out at least the beta, didn't buy the game yet. probably getting it after the semester ends... im getting skyrim on release day though

clip meter = gimmick maybe a topic for another thread tho. amp seems like a decent suggestion

maybe health physics. from talking to some health physics majors at my school, they dont use a lot of "hard math" compared to shit i do (physics major). they do a coop as part of their program so they also avoid a high level physics course like QM, etc. a friend of mine did an internship at Geisinger, treating cancer patients, he enjoyed it but working with terminal cancer patients was, for him, depressing. i also know several people who have done internships at PPL and Exelon Nuclear plants. General consensus was that the Techs get paid to sit around haha. i heard that Exelon has some nice perks like paying for your masters and phd. http://www.hps.org/documents/Salary_Survey_2009.pdf

woooh, i saw one of sefugi's post before it was moved or whatever happened. weird shit.

I need someone to do the exact same thing for me for a pair of Fosteks. Hey, that looks like my dash. The airbag really made it a tight fit. haha, the gear really deserves a nicer car.

Freaking AWESOME ! I'm envious me too, its my bro's car. didn't get very far on tuning before i ripped them back out to redo the flocking.

You wouldn't like where I went to school then. 3 days is a long time for an 8 pager. x2 <<<<< never wrote an 8 pager We used to write 2500-3000 word papers every 2 weeks in one semester. And my 55 page diploma project was written in about 10 days... wow, so was that required to graduate? Yup, 50 page minimum. And the 10 minute presentation was worth more than the paper + actual project. Hour presentation for mine and another hour to defend it this makes me wonder if my BS will be worth a shit. i go to a small-ish state school in Pa but i wouldn't consider our department to be shit. i do plan to get a masters though.

that all sounds good. nothing to really screw up with an active set up. it will just sound like shit till you tune it properly.

this is asked alot dude, try the search function. also you need to post more info. whats the vehicle? f it is the blazer from your info then you should be fine with a 1000-1500rms amp, do the big 3 and run 0 gauge. assuming you install it correctly you should be fine if you pay attention. amps and subs have a funny way of telling you when your pushing them too far. voltmeter.. blah blah blah... search function. learn. very easy.

bi amping just gives you the ability to send a certain amount of power to the tweeter and mid. you would need a 4 channel amp or two 2 channel amps. but there is also an attenuation on the crossover so you can "turn down" the tweeter even if your not biamping.

i guess i have the only 3 working d-link products.

<3 boobies top

I need someone to do the exact same thing for me for a pair of Fosteks. i think im getting better with fg and bondo. these look better then the tweeters i put in my a pillars. just nipples, no boob.

depending on the quality of the tweeter, metal tweeters generally sound more precise and brighter. while non-metal tweeters generally are more laid back, smooth. if there's a shop near by that carries decent gear i would go by and listen to the different tweeters and find ones that you like. that may help you decide what to look at next. the thing is, im not sure if i should recommend that you get the set your friend has because they get loud enough and you like the sound, or recommend you find something else. honestly if you like the T1's and they get loud enough, save some cash and get them instead of the T2's. for headunit, i recommend you take this chance and find a nice alpine unit like the cda 9835 9833 9855 or 9853, used (on ebay for example) for about 150, plenty of other options for active hu's as well. with a unit like this you can go active and not have to worry about getting a new headunit later. this option give you an upgrade option later on when you feel like a component set is no longer cutting it. personally i would never buy a component set over $200 simply because i know i can find better speakers for less and put together a great active setup. unless you have something else in mind, gps, double din? amps, you have 2 options, biamp or not to biamp. any preference?

JUNK! really? <<<<has 3 d-link routers... haha the setup in my house is actually pretty funny... 1st floor we have the wireless+wire router, from there an Ethernet cable goes out the window, up the side of the house, and into my brother room, to another router for his shit..... then a 100 footer runs down the hall to my room, to a switch.

thanks man

ok if you got an amp then lets figure out which comp set to get. i dont know anything about the t2's, they have some nice features like tweet attenuation, and bi amp-able. do you like metal tweeters? does the comp set your buddy run get loud enough for you? speaker installs are really subjective, its hard to offer up a recommendation. and install is a huge factor of performance. any interest in going active? might have to swap out your head unit, but the end results could be better.

i wish i was kidding.. dont know why i find this so halarious.. had to add this to my sig.

He could paint or dye it, but it would fade twice as fast. decided to just redo them in gray. no idea why i picked the tan color haha. sanding the flock/glue off is a bitch Try soaking them in mineral spirits. Be forewarned, it could damage the plastic. Highly unlikely, but you never know how cheap these plastics are. mmm that might be worth trying but i already finished one. took like 2 hours hand sanding around the mid but i used a shitty random orbit sander where i could.

here's some more shots.. very strange design coil pack, bank of 3 those rubber things extended down and covers the top of the plug. inside there is something like a spring, so NO wires. That's a very common design actually. The rubber parts are essentially the spark plug boots and the springs clip on the plug electrode. Each coil pack is directly over the plug for the shortest possible route to the plug. This is commonly referred to as coil-on-plug, although GM uses coil packs above like you have. Newer stuff is different, but you get the idea. You have a bad seal on the cam cover which is pushing oil past, and once pressurized, is pooling around the plug. I'd spray brake cleaner in the boot, or rubber part, to get the oil residual out of there and make sure you get a good connection on the plug. Also put some dielectric grease on the tips of the plugs as well. thanks, ill look into how to replace the seal. dielectric grease on the terminal you mean? or to you mean tips of the coil packs? or both? lol