lithium

You can test your current sensors with a DMM to see if they are bad before wasting money on new ones. If the sensors test good then its something in the path of the signal. I had a car that filled the plug holes with oil like that too. LOL shit didn't think of that. too late i bought the sensor. but i measured all three (replacements and original). but i got some weird shit.. there are 3 pins; signal, power, and low. the original and first replacement i bought have the same values when measured. the newest one has different values. (all in the mega ohm range) i haven't found the correct values yet. maybe i'm not searching for the right information. i could assume that the original and first replacement are both bad, and the newest is fine. however, i dont have a scan tool to clear the code. right now im trying to clear it by disconnecting the battery. i have access to a shitty manual from alldatadiy.com, it suggests that disconnecting the battery is not the correct way to clear that code and that it might not actually clear it. edit: all three cam sensors have the last 4 digits of the oem part number on plastic part. edit2: reconnected the battery after ~30 min, turned key to "on" position and still had a ses light.

What surprises me is the number of charges. someone in the group probably caved and ratted them out. seen it before..

geez you guys are all over this today, must be a slow wednesday at work? haha op, decide how much room you willing to give up for the subs then pick the largest sub that will fit, assuming your goal is output.

i got some pretty badass tickets for jim gaffigan, 2nd row! for the last 3 years i try to get to a show late january for my bday. last two were lewis black

i really didn't haha

I'm a Physicist as well, nerd. Do you have an O'reilly Auto Parts or a Checker nearby? Both loan you an OBD scanner for free just by leaving your license. I'm sure other auto chains do as well. My guess is that if you camshaft sensor is off then your car will try to change your timing appropriately (or mis-appropriately in this case)...although considering its a GM it may not be that smart. haha, nothing wrong with nerds all we have around here are federated auto parts, napa, advance auto, and auto zone. i'll check with them going to order in a new senor today.

fuck, just when i thought i had my car fixed up. i had a misfire on cylinder 3 and the camshaft position sensor a few weeks ago. (there was also a 3rd code, possible random cylinder misfire or a repeat of cyl. 3 misfire) so i did new plugs and replaced the sensor. if you remember, that's when i found this little gem last week i replaced the valve gaskets on my own, not bad for a physics nerd haha still have the misfire after replacing the gaskets so i got the codes read again. p0300 random cylinder misfire and p0340 camshaft position sensor ordered new coil boot (spark plug boots), figured i'd start by ruling out coil boots first. any advice guys? would purchasing an obd II scanner be any help? i wouldn't mind gambling 50 bucks on something like this obdlink sx- scan tool, if it could save me some money (avoid a mechanic). car - oldsmobile intrigue edit: i checked the camshaft sensor connections, everything looked good. ill pick up another sensor in a day or two, depending if they have to order it in

my dad got the smaller 2 channel recently. very nice quality, seems to put out decent power to his comp's (aura 6.5's).

Good luck getting just the way you want it. Vented and some polyfil and they should sound great. I think fleece and a few layers of the woven mat are more than strong enough. The ass on the Anarchy's probably isn't helping the pods get any smaller either. Are you planing to start with seperate rings next time or a single baffle again? This was the start from the current ones: Then I found out it was just too big, so I trimmed around the edges to this: But the shape was lost and looks like shit. I think I'll make the new ones like I started with, but there won't be a space between the mid and tweeter, and I'll trim ALL the wood around the drivers. Thinking about using veneer edge banding around the edges, this will make the baffle recessed a bit, and give me room to make a grill cover. did this with my bro's A pillars. worked well, but next time i think i'll use something more beefy like abs. reminds me that i keep forgetting to post up the build log...

did the upload work?

sound cool, let me know.

fuck, i picked the 2 coldest days of the winter to replace the valve gaskets.. still have something else wrong, flashing ses, could be o2 sensor. should get the codes read soon.

sentimental reasons... :cough: :cough: sounds like your about to get dicked over. sell it all, split it 50/50, and buy your own gear?

it suppose to be "warm" today so i plan on changing the valve gaskets finally! righty tighty, lefty loosy, right? question, should i look over anything while i have the valve cover off? also need to replace the front driver side window regulator. i lost both rear window regulators over the summer, fixed those with a 2x4 stuck under the window inside the door.

saw the movie, I liked it a lot.. hated the ending.. SO Sean you're back now? It's not over yet. oh shit, what i miss?

they came out with a dc isolator to address noise issues with the minidsp. idk if its effective enough for car audio, though they claim it is. http://www.minidsp.com/onlinestore/detail/8-accessories/flypage/81-minidc-isolator?sef=hcfp there is also the coustics xm6, i think you will have to find one used.

http://oysterism.blogspot.com/2010/07/perfect-gifts-for-him-herseriously.html

Thanks sounds good! are you familiar with how filters work? start the sub lpf at around 80 and go up and down till you find the right number. same for mids, careful with running the mids too low as they could potentially be damaged from over excursion. too low would depend on the power applied and what the speaker is designed to handle. around 100hz should be fine, south of 80hz and you might have to be careful.

then active is not for you my friend. so your going to need a set of passive that can get loud. which might involve running more power. also, sound deadening

i need a xmas gift ideas for my grandmother who has alzheimer's... i shouldn't laugh but there's something oddly amusing about being able to giver her the same gift over and over again, because she cant remember where it came from.. i might be a little fucked up in the head as well :suicide-santa: she wont be home for a few weeks, btw.

200 is enough for a used sub. icon, ssd, bl, etc. i dont think a q is what your looking for.

i dont know if there's is any factory eq going on, would have to research that. if so then you might have to use a product to correct that. jl clean sweep is advertised to handle this but im not aware if it actually works. im not sure if it will be this simple... but i would think that you can just unplug the subwoofer and tap the wires there for your signal (at least for a normal loc install, this is how you would do it). the jl might require signal from more then just the subwoofer, i have no idea. i was wondering if they had noise canceling in this car, a quick google showed me that its not until 05 that they started using noise canceling in this car, so dont need to worry about that.