lithium

reminded me of this "It was an utter dog shit winter and dog shit would have been better because it's warmer. The dry cleaning bills are higher but I don't care." ~lewis black

with a 3 way you wouldn't necessarily need a tweeter like you currently have to cover frequencies above what the mid range will play. my set up is peerless sls 8, tangband w4 (1337sd iirc), and dayton nd20. mb in doors, mid on axis in kicks, and tweeter off axis on the a pillar. the w4's can practically be run full range if not for being installed in the kick (leg reflections on the driver side). my setting were wiped out the other day so i need to re-tune the entire system but iirc the tweeters pick up about 5-6k my point is, you could use a smaller tweeter to find the best location for the tweeter on the a pillar. alternatively, the dash location may work with your current tweeter. in either case you wont know without some experimentation. you could pick up a tweeter from parts express, like the nd20, and experiment with more locations. this thread may be a bit premature considering you haven't finished your new kicks yet.

cool project!

im not very familiar with the ms8. what can you do without the auto eq? can you still set TA, etc? i was under the impression that you pretty much have to use the auto tune then adjust the graphic eq to fit your tastes. iirc, i heard you could lower gains initially, prior to set up and auto calibration, then raise them afterwards to correct for the output loss. you could check quickly if adding another amp will help by bridging the eclipse to the mids and running the tweets off the ms8. actually, i would think bridging your current amp and adding a small amp for the tweets would be enough power.. might be of some use http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/diyma-sq-forum-technical-advanced/8257-jbls-ms-8-processor-148.html#post1073797

also reinstalled my midbass. used an entire spray can of bed liner on the new baffles lol dam im going to miss this car when she dies.. i can fit an 8" midbass with > 4" mounting depth in my doors with nothing more then a 1.5" mdf baffle. decided to go with don's suggestion that covering access holes is not necessary when mlv is installed. so far the jury is still out. it might be that i have too much woofer for the doors to handle.

early morning top!

pretty sure i fixed my car. new coil boots seemed to do the trick. i tried cleaning the old ones when i swapped the plugs but i must have not been enough. thanks for the help guys! :morepower1:

interesting idea. im not sure if im picturing how the port will be run... so the port will exit above the kicks, somewhere in the dash? im curious if the separation of woofer and port matter? would it be best for them to be closer and fire on the same plane?

im not very familiar with the ms8. what can you do without the auto eq? can you still set TA, etc? i was under the impression that you pretty much have to use the auto tune then adjust the graphic eq to fit your tastes. iirc, i heard you could lower gains initially, prior to set up and auto calibration, then raise them afterwards to correct for the output loss. you could check quickly if adding another amp will help by bridging the eclipse to the mids and running the tweets off the ms8. actually, i would think bridging your current amp and adding a small amp for the tweets would be enough power..

yes there are better speakers, but it is unlikely they will be any louder.

you say you're fine with the sound from the current speakers. this makes it difficult figure out what would be an acquitted investment. for example, a set of 50 dollar coax speakers would probably not improve things very much. spending a bit more, 70-100, might give you better results. however, spending much more then that would likely be a waste on stock amplification. never heard the kappas. honestly, it wouldn't matter very much if i had heard them because it would be mostly a subjective experience. also, your not likely to gain much if any output by just upgrading the speakers. personally, you may want to up the budget to about 200 bucks. this would give you plenty of cash for some component speakers (or coax), 2 channel amp, and install equipment. (i would leave the rears stock) there is the small problem of getting signal from the stock deck. im not aware if there is any factory processing going on at the deck or external oem amp (if there is one). a simple Line output converter would provide the signal. there is also the option of high level inputs into the amp, i am not sure which is better or if there is a difference. to give you something of an idea as to what the system could possibly consist of. i would look around for used gear, amps especially. pg rsd comps, budget favorite in the past. very few of these left on the internets. 6.5" would be preferable if you could make them fit. but the 6" model linked would preform well. another option from the ssa store the infinity kappas could work as well for an amp, a small 2 channel w/ about 70-100 rms x 2 @ 4ohms will power things nicely. you could also go with a 4 channel amp and bridge the rear channels to a small sub to get the low end output you described to be lacking. these aura sound amps are a nice deal on new amps plenty of options on ebay for refurbs and so forth. i've had luck with kicker refurbs, a 250.2 or 200.2 would be nice. some nice amp kits from cadence ebay. My link

looks great i tried the expandable foam thing in my kicks.. total pain in the ass.

ya pipe strap, thought thats what he ment.

im definitely trying some plumbers tape when i redo my kicks. fuck dowels..

You can test your current sensors with a DMM to see if they are bad before wasting money on new ones. If the sensors test good then its something in the path of the signal. I had a car that filled the plug holes with oil like that too. LOL shit didn't think of that. too late i bought the sensor. but i measured all three (replacements and original). but i got some weird shit.. there are 3 pins; signal, power, and low. the original and first replacement i bought have the same values when measured. the newest one has different values. (all in the mega ohm range) i haven't found the correct values yet. maybe i'm not searching for the right information. i could assume that the original and first replacement are both bad, and the newest is fine. however, i dont have a scan tool to clear the code. right now im trying to clear it by disconnecting the battery. i have access to a shitty manual from alldatadiy.com, it suggests that disconnecting the battery is not the correct way to clear that code and that it might not actually clear it. edit: all three cam sensors have the last 4 digits of the oem part number on plastic part. edit2: reconnected the battery after ~30 min, turned key to "on" position and still had a ses light. drove afew miles, no change. what do you guys think of the sensor resistance differences of the 3 sensors? 2 same, 1 different... assuming the sensor is good, wiring would be the next issue to work out? should i make a new run of wire back to the pcm or just replace the plug? i figure i could start by replacing the plug first. http://troubleshootm...kp_sensor_1.php This will explain why each sensor had different readings and how to test the whole system, not just the sensor. As far as getting the light to shut off a few websites say the ODBll tester is the only way. As far as the computer recalibrating by driving, most ECU's/ECM's recalibrate around every 50 miles of driving. So either get your buddy to clear the code with his tool or drive 50 plus miles and see what happens. If you follow the test instuctions in the link you should have it figured out. thanks for the link, problem is that its actually the cam sensor for a 3.5l v6. sorry i didn't mention that. ill take it on a drive tomorrow and see what happens. edit: i've read through most of the directions for testing the cam sensor for the 3.8l, totally different motor but the way in which the cam sensor functions is probably the same. if clearing the code fails i'll attempt to replicate the trouble shooting guide for my car. You still haven't said what yr of car either? haha my bad. thought it was in this mess somewhere. its a 2000. something of an update. met up with a friend of mine and hooked his scan tool up. im not sure what exactly its called but his scan tool can monitor whether or not a cylinder is misfiring and count the number of times it misses. there is actually only one cylinder misfiring (strange, considering the code is for a random cylinder misfire). my plan now is to rule out the spark plug boot and coil pack. im still unsure about cam sensor. if the new plug boot doesn't fix it i'll run the test roadtatts linked. (test voltage/signal at the sensor) if that fails i will swap front and rear coil packs (bank of 3 packs) and retest them on the scan tool next weekend. and if that fails, fuck it!

is the mid firing into the dash more so then previously? maybe you could treat the under side of the dash with some type of foam/deadening product. here's a strange idea. what if you over lapped the woofer's mounting ring a bit with the tweeter. you might be able to bring the mid down, away from the bottom of the dash some more. maybe use have a sphere of styrofoam behind the tweeter (would have to fiberglass it) another idea. the mid and tweet do not necessarily have to be on the same plain.

i have a hard time getting that during the evening (peak hours) most days

You can test your current sensors with a DMM to see if they are bad before wasting money on new ones. If the sensors test good then its something in the path of the signal. I had a car that filled the plug holes with oil like that too. LOL shit didn't think of that. too late i bought the sensor. but i measured all three (replacements and original). but i got some weird shit.. there are 3 pins; signal, power, and low. the original and first replacement i bought have the same values when measured. the newest one has different values. (all in the mega ohm range) i haven't found the correct values yet. maybe i'm not searching for the right information. i could assume that the original and first replacement are both bad, and the newest is fine. however, i dont have a scan tool to clear the code. right now im trying to clear it by disconnecting the battery. i have access to a shitty manual from alldatadiy.com, it suggests that disconnecting the battery is not the correct way to clear that code and that it might not actually clear it. edit: all three cam sensors have the last 4 digits of the oem part number on plastic part. edit2: reconnected the battery after ~30 min, turned key to "on" position and still had a ses light. drove afew miles, no change. what do you guys think of the sensor resistance differences of the 3 sensors? 2 same, 1 different... assuming the sensor is good, wiring would be the next issue to work out? should i make a new run of wire back to the pcm or just replace the plug? i figure i could start by replacing the plug first. http://troubleshootm...kp_sensor_1.php This will explain why each sensor had different readings and how to test the whole system, not just the sensor. As far as getting the light to shut off a few websites say the ODBll tester is the only way. As far as the computer recalibrating by driving, most ECU's/ECM's recalibrate around every 50 miles of driving. So either get your buddy to clear the code with his tool or drive 50 plus miles and see what happens. If you follow the test instuctions in the link you should have it figured out. thanks for the link, problem is that its actually the cam sensor for a 3.5l v6. sorry i didn't mention that. ill take it on a drive tomorrow and see what happens. edit: i've read through most of the directions for testing the cam sensor for the 3.8l, totally different motor but the way in which the cam sensor functions is probably the same. if clearing the code fails i'll attempt to replicate the trouble shooting guide for my car. You still haven't said what yr of car either? haha my bad. thought it was in this mess somewhere. its a 2000.

with the right parameters it can calculate excursion vs freq., given box volume and power

annoying car problems TOP!

You can test your current sensors with a DMM to see if they are bad before wasting money on new ones. If the sensors test good then its something in the path of the signal. I had a car that filled the plug holes with oil like that too. LOL shit didn't think of that. too late i bought the sensor. but i measured all three (replacements and original). but i got some weird shit.. there are 3 pins; signal, power, and low. the original and first replacement i bought have the same values when measured. the newest one has different values. (all in the mega ohm range) i haven't found the correct values yet. maybe i'm not searching for the right information. i could assume that the original and first replacement are both bad, and the newest is fine. however, i dont have a scan tool to clear the code. right now im trying to clear it by disconnecting the battery. i have access to a shitty manual from alldatadiy.com, it suggests that disconnecting the battery is not the correct way to clear that code and that it might not actually clear it. edit: all three cam sensors have the last 4 digits of the oem part number on plastic part. edit2: reconnected the battery after ~30 min, turned key to "on" position and still had a ses light. drove afew miles, no change. what do you guys think of the sensor resistance differences of the 3 sensors? 2 same, 1 different... assuming the sensor is good, wiring would be the next issue to work out? should i make a new run of wire back to the pcm or just replace the plug? i figure i could start by replacing the plug first. http://troubleshootmyvehicle.com/gm_ckp_3.8L/test_ckp_sensor_1.php This will explain why each sensor had different readings and how to test the whole system, not just the sensor. As far as getting the light to shut off a few websites say the ODBll tester is the only way. As far as the computer recalibrating by driving, most ECU's/ECM's recalibrate around every 50 miles of driving. So either get your buddy to clear the code with his tool or drive 50 plus miles and see what happens. If you follow the test instuctions in the link you should have it figured out. thanks for the link, problem is that its actually the cam sensor for a 3.5l v6. sorry i didn't mention that. ill take it on a drive tomorrow and see what happens. edit: i've read through most of the directions for testing the cam sensor for the 3.8l, totally different motor but the way in which the cam sensor functions is probably the same. if clearing the code fails i'll attempt to replicate the trouble shooting guide for my car.

You can test your current sensors with a DMM to see if they are bad before wasting money on new ones. If the sensors test good then its something in the path of the signal. I had a car that filled the plug holes with oil like that too. LOL shit didn't think of that. too late i bought the sensor. but i measured all three (replacements and original). but i got some weird shit.. there are 3 pins; signal, power, and low. the original and first replacement i bought have the same values when measured. the newest one has different values. (all in the mega ohm range) i haven't found the correct values yet. maybe i'm not searching for the right information. i could assume that the original and first replacement are both bad, and the newest is fine. however, i dont have a scan tool to clear the code. right now im trying to clear it by disconnecting the battery. i have access to a shitty manual from alldatadiy.com, it suggests that disconnecting the battery is not the correct way to clear that code and that it might not actually clear it. edit: all three cam sensors have the last 4 digits of the oem part number on plastic part. edit2: reconnected the battery after ~30 min, turned key to "on" position and still had a ses light. drove afew miles, no change. what do you guys think of the sensor resistance differences of the 3 sensors? 2 same, 1 different... assuming the sensor is good, wiring would be the next issue to work out? should i make a new run of wire back to the pcm or just replace the plug? i figure i could start by replacing the plug first.

You can test your current sensors with a DMM to see if they are bad before wasting money on new ones. If the sensors test good then its something in the path of the signal. I had a car that filled the plug holes with oil like that too. LOL shit didn't think of that. too late i bought the sensor. but i measured all three (replacements and original). but i got some weird shit.. there are 3 pins; signal, power, and low. the original and first replacement i bought have the same values when measured. the newest one has different values. (all in the mega ohm range) i haven't found the correct values yet. maybe i'm not searching for the right information. i could assume that the original and first replacement are both bad, and the newest is fine. however, i dont have a scan tool to clear the code. right now im trying to clear it by disconnecting the battery. i have access to a shitty manual from alldatadiy.com, it suggests that disconnecting the battery is not the correct way to clear that code and that it might not actually clear it. You will most likely have to clear the code with a code reader, disconnecting the battery won't do it. There should be a "assembly data link connecter" either under the hood or under the dash. It will look like a plug with nothing plugged into it. You will want a service manual as it will tell you which terminals to place a jumper in to retrieve the codes. You will also need the manual for proper code interpretation. The manual should also tell you the correct way to clear the ECM. i know a guy with a code reader. ill have him clear it and see if it comes back.