lithium

mmmm captain crunch! nom nom nom

i think you confusing some of the info m5 gave you. mlv is an alternative to lead. do some reading at sounddeadenershowdown.com, great info lead or mlv acts as a barrier. cld tiles reduce vibration of panels polyfill wont do anything beneficial in the doors. polyfill + water = mold

i cant quite judge the depth of your trunk so i cant tell if this would work. i know this is a trunk install but it might give you an idea. considering you have a large sub enclosure its hard to access amps and so forth without removing the enclosure. this is what i worked out in my bro's car. notice the false floor. hinged panel gives access to amp w/o removing enclosure. i think if you did something with you false floor you would have room for more amps adjacent (to the left or right) to the amp pictured. i was constrained to the spare tire well. after removing the enclosure the panel hinges again to give you access to the other amps. wish i had pictures of this.. the whole amp rack pivots giving access to the spare.

http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/build-logs-project-install-gallery/84949-2010-sti-stealth-sq-install-slight-twist.html

That is a pretty good idea to conserve trunk space. I've seen something similar before and thought it was clever too tried this before building the false floor/ ib set up. i'd need to down size on amps before doing something like that again.. or a new vehicle

its just a really high end deck. it would be over kill for your stated goals

lead may be slightly longer on that sub.

First poat from new phone

I don't get any reflections with this setup. Thanks to driver selection and mounting location I honestly only eq down a smidge at 2k hz. I think this is more due 2k being the freq we are most sensitive to than anything. As Sean said don't plan on the eq being part of the install as it is there to dial in after install. Boost should only be used for a big dip in the FR. dam, what are the drivers in the doors?

lack of sound deadening would result in the lack luster low end on your previous comps. i would focus on front speakers and deadening first.

Your timing ROCKS. Was at Verizon asking for a 4G world phone yesterday... im about to order a droid 3 for myself. its global ready but only has 3g.

If you can't get them ON axis it is really NOT a good idea. I can, as long as the OD is under 3.5". Now if I decided to go with a bigger midrange (~4"), then see below. The stage height improved immensely when I placed the tweeters up on the dash, I'm curious if the tweets were aimed differently in the kicks if that could achieve similar results. Though I thought even if they were a bit off in the kicks, the stage height wouldn't have affected. Otherwise I could always put a midrange + tweeter in the kicks, that won't take up much room, and I could use the on-board amp on the ms8 for the tweets. Definitely different aiming in your kicks can do the same. 4" is rather big for in car, but I LOVE my TB's. Getting them on axis and potentially in an enclosure is a much higher priority. the TB's are fucking fantastic in my kicks. Which driver specifically? tb w4 1337 price is a bit steep now. i picked them up for about ~45$ a year ago. these are the same sean is referencing. IIRC, he runs a pair indoors. sean might have some input on the the cheaper ferrite motor models. I was also looking at those, but paid more attention to others mainly due to the cone material. Although I did read the cone is fairly thin and doesn't offer the average metal cone sounding characteristics, so yeah. the cone material on this driver is very fragile. i cant comment on the metal characteristics (nothing stands out to me) but i would like to compare it against the bamboo cone version some day.

i assume this was the reason TB brought out ferrite models for many of current drivers. quite a large ass for a 4 incher compared to this

If you can't get them ON axis it is really NOT a good idea. I can, as long as the OD is under 3.5". Now if I decided to go with a bigger midrange (~4"), then see below. The stage height improved immensely when I placed the tweeters up on the dash, I'm curious if the tweets were aimed differently in the kicks if that could achieve similar results. Though I thought even if they were a bit off in the kicks, the stage height wouldn't have affected. Otherwise I could always put a midrange + tweeter in the kicks, that won't take up much room, and I could use the on-board amp on the ms8 for the tweets. Definitely different aiming in your kicks can do the same. 4" is rather big for in car, but I LOVE my TB's. Getting them on axis and potentially in an enclosure is a much higher priority. the TB's are fucking fantastic in my kicks. Which driver specifically? tb w4 1337 price is a bit steep now. i picked them up for about ~45$ a year ago. these are the same sean is referencing. IIRC, he runs a pair indoors. sean might have some input on the the cheaper ferrite motor models.

swapped this guy in to power my MJ 18 cadence ZRS-2002

If you can't get them ON axis it is really NOT a good idea. I can, as long as the OD is under 3.5". Now if I decided to go with a bigger midrange (~4"), then see below. The stage height improved immensely when I placed the tweeters up on the dash, I'm curious if the tweets were aimed differently in the kicks if that could achieve similar results. Though I thought even if they were a bit off in the kicks, the stage height wouldn't have affected. Otherwise I could always put a midrange + tweeter in the kicks, that won't take up much room, and I could use the on-board amp on the ms8 for the tweets. Definitely different aiming in your kicks can do the same. 4" is rather big for in car, but I LOVE my TB's. Getting them on axis and potentially in an enclosure is a much higher priority. the TB's are fucking fantastic in my kicks.

butyle rope can stiffen the door up quite well when installed between the intrution bar and door skin. sds

Do you give them a heads up that your coming or just scare the shit out of them?

If your car has the recessed plug holes that have the huge boot on the end then your problem could be as simple as cheap plug wires. I refuse to use anything other than NGK wires on my Honda. My first car that had that plug boot style setup would stall on the highway and I would change plug wires with extras I had and the car would restart. The mechanics shop I have used for 15 years told me that cheap auto parts store wires will do this every time. Another note. You can test plug wires with a DMM. They shouldn't have more than one ohm resistence per inch of lenght. so a 10" wire shouldn't read above 10 ohms or its bad. my car has coil-on-plug boots so no wires to worry about. i've been driving a few days now and no problems so far.

give us more info on your vehical. i owned both the 12" assassin and 12" arsenal from AA. both were good drivers. the arsenal was louder on the same power of course.

bcae1.com

this is my idea for fiberglassing on a door without cutting much if any door trim. of course you would have to remove the stock grille. i should mention i have yet to try this out but i dont see a reason for why it wont work. i think the key to it would be keeping the pod isolated from the door trim which reduces rattles.

check out zaphaudio.com for some 3-4 inch midrange ideas if you dont already have a list.

I'm not finishing my new kicks, I plan on using the bases I've already made for smaller kicks containing: either midrange solely, or midrange + tweet. I've seen several setups with midranges that covered the spectrum high enough to where tweets weren't needed. I have mine already, so I don't know if I should still use them but cross them pretty high. i use to run a 3" fullrange with my sls 8s. they were installed on axis in the a pillars. they covered the top end pretty well as long as you kept them on axis. the problem i faced with the 3" was that it couldn't mate up well enough on the low end with my sls 8's. the ex anarchy's can play much higher so this may not be a problem for you. i also used a fountek and dayton combo in my brothers car that worked pretty well. i've posted pics of the a pillar's before. The tweets sounded fine in the dash, but I don't know how the entire stage will sound if the tweets are in the dash, and midranges are in the kicks. So perhaps I'd use midranges in the kicks, and no tweets. i dont see much of a downside to putting the midrange in the kicks.. technically you kind of have an idea of how a kick panel install sounds in your car already (in terms of stage height, width, etc.). I've thought long and hard, and decided I want to regain my foot space. Goals: regain foot space, improve midbass output, improve staging, and get rid of this "screeching" sound I hear on some content. I believe midbass output & staging can be improved just by a better installation, and I think adding a third driver (midrange) or replacing the tweeter with a midrange, will reduce each speaker's wide bandwidth and hopefully fix the noise I'm hearing on some content. I figured splitting up the frequency spectrum to three drivers instead of two would allow them all to perform better, assuming they are installed in a good fashion (which why I'm posting ) I believe I'm capable of dealing with all the tweaking a 3-way would entail, and I have a better grip on the ms8 now. This leaves me with one last place for the midbass drivers, the doors. I've been thinking how I'd make the doors work, http://caraudiomag.com/articles/how-build-audiophile-car-stereo-system-part-7 I like the idea of fiberglassing over the sheet metal and making a base for the speaker enclosure. Once they had the base, they filled the area with clay, then glassed over that. Then they had the base and a shell with baffle. These both mount to the door. That I can do. The part I'm lost is when they glass over the stock panel so it covers over the speak enclosure, that I can't do since my door panel is thin particle wood wrapped in vinyl / pleather, not plastic. I know it sounds and looks somewhat extreme, but nothing else has crossed my mind. holy shit, if you want to do something like this you might as well go with a larger midbass... 8" or even a 10" would not a more traditional door install work with your current woofers? check out this sentra build, 03 sentra spec v