lithium

His email load is actually greater then mine, which is insane to think about. But if you have not heard back by Monday, shoot him another email as I know he works quite hard to catch up to emails. he got back to me today. considering how much works he puts into just his emails alone its hard to imagine that he has time to ship anything out.

Anyone know if Don from SDS is on vacation or something? sent him an email monday i'm in no hurry, perhaps he's just behind.

just ordered a us acoustics usx 2050

how much trunk space do you plan to give up for the subwoofer enclosure? based on that you would pick which size subwoofer you can go with. SSA Dcon would be a great choice for sub. When running less power you can gain some output by using a larger size subwoofer. So if you could fit a 15" Dcon in it's proper ported enclosure then i would go that route. Do you have the tools to build your own box? Even if you haven't built a box before its rather simple so anyone with some basic wood working skills could help you do it correctly. for comps there's the pheonix gold rsd 6.5", 6", or 5.25" set http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p5197.m570.l1313&_nkw=phoenix+gold+rsd+&_sacat=See-All-Categories#item1e5d7574b9 you could also check out the Incriminator audio components sold on the SSA store as well. there's a simlar tread in this subforum on the same topic of cheap component speakers recently, i think the OP went with the Incriminator audio comps. the unfortunate thing about coming to a decision on any particular set of speakers is that you dont get to hear the speakers before you buy them. i encourage you to go out and listen to some speakers at any local shops, etc. i caution that listening to speakers installed on a wall is not an accurate way to demo the performance of the speaker when installed in a car. however, you can still determine if you like the particular quality of the tweeter (general characteristic of the tweeter, soft or hard/metal).

temp set up haha

you might find this interesting, http://www.rps.psu.edu/jan98/sounds.html

Physics 110 was a bitch where I went to school. Started out with 160 Physics majors. After 110 we had 30, after 128 (next class) we had 13. Graduated 1 of 11.Of course, over 95% of campus were National Merit Scholars so it wasn't a "normal" school holy shit i dont know the exact statistics of our department but we tend to graduate ~5-10 physics majors a year. That doesn't count the students who do a 3+2 engineering degree at Pennstate (who receive a BA in physics from my school along with their engineering degree from PSU). Roughly the same number of students graduate with either a Health Physics or EET degree. Then perhaps 1 or 2 physics ed majors graduate a year. I would have graduated this semester but decided to hold off untill the fall... couldn't decide what to do about grad school.

not sure i understand, why do you need speakers in the rear? if you looking to increase output then just amp the fronts with decent power. Rears in most cases do nothing acoustically beneficially. a properly installed front stage should still sound adequate to passengers in the rear.

beh, physics 1 was a complete repeat of hs honors phyics for me.

No lliking the L4's? Have you considerend FR89EX's? the fr89ex's are pretty good. favorite 3" i heard so far. i have a set of hivi 3's that i will be using as computer speakers as soon as i build the boxes. cant wait to test them out.

too bad the w4 titanium are out of stock, bamboos probably aren't too bad though. i doubt the L4s will be better then either...

i drive an olds intrigue which is pretty similar to the alero i think.. i would take the doors off and see if you can fit a larger set of speakers in the front door. 6.5" would be best because generally they can produce more midbass then a 5.25. with your budget i would focus on front speakers only, speaker amp, sub, and sub amp. here is an idea of what such a system could consist of. im not necessarily making recommendations. you could save even more cash if you bought used gear. front doors: 6" pheonix gold rsd components - $100 (or the 5.25s for 90) Sub: SSA Dcon (which ever size you want to go with!) ~$100-140 can you build your own box? Amp: 2 options, both would work very well. cadence 600-4 ~150 http://www.ebay.com/...b#ht_4991wt_954 Precision power p900-4 $190 http://www.sonicelec...wer-P900.4.html you would run the components on the front channels 1/2 and bridge 3/4 to the sub (order a single 4 ohm coil in this case) wiring kit: cadence 4 gauge kit ~40 http://www.ebay.com/...#ht_3835wt_1139

you can still find some pg rsd's floating around ebay. the 6" is considerably cheaper then the 6.5" set IIRC.

i assume you dont have processing to go active or plan to do so in the future? what dont you like about your current speakers? have you done any sound deadening? assuming you've done the most you could to optimize your current install then we can make you some recommendations. if you haven't then its best to stop now and readdress your current situation (so you dont waste any money) -------------- pg rsd's use to be the budget choice. some sets can still be found on ebay. the 6.5 set goes for 140 but the 6" set goes for only 100. the 6.5 would have some more midbass but i dont think its worth the extra 40 bucks. i owned a set and they preformed pretty well for the money. the set from Incriminator audio might be worth checking out as well. sold in the SSA store.

i've noticed this as well with shallow slopes between mid and tweet. actually running my w4's without a LPF with the tweets picking up around 5k sounds good. my transition between mid and mb is limited to a single slope, however.

Built a desk for my room. Just needed some extra space to work on things. A new computer desk is in the works as well.

thanks man. if you have access to the tools i recommend you build the grill yourself. the problem with the grill i used is that it is too narrow, that's why its at a weird ass angle haha

Finished this build over the summer for my brother. This is an active 2way+ sub build for my brother's car. system sound great and my brother is very happy. Equipment alpine 9855 us acoustics usx 2080 (2) kole qx1-3000d fountek fr88ex dayton rs 180 SSA Icon 12" monoprice rca's 1/0 welding wire cadence 8 awg SDS deadening ------------------------------------- pictures during the build are pretty bad. just uploading a few. Random deadening pics ---------------------------------------- build pics dayton rs 180 using these for midbass. sentra doors limited my mounting depth quite a bit. perhaps he will let me cut up the doors and install some larger midbass speaker some day. sexy sexy simple single baffle, clay was added later ...forgot some pics of the mlv process Fullrange aiming baffle baffle on pillar fg process mix of fg and bondo applied, this stuff is awesome! Flocking so i picked a brown color that wasn't even close to right so i had to sand it off and re-flock with gray.. turned out great though! Big Three! battery gnd chassis gnd -no pics but its under the battery if your wondering alt to battery double run of 2 gauge (had some scrap sitting around so why not!) Amp Rack / False Floor -goal was to keep access to spare tire

I am also curious on how those mids perform. i think they sound pretty great. awesome detail and retains enough top end to forgo the tweeter. i still prefer the install in my car but really they're different installs. i did a little work tuning things but i need to sit down with my bro and dial things in for him. even with minimal tuning this is by far the best system he's had in his vehicle.

don't know the exact points, something like woofers play 80-500 and the fullrangers play 500 and up. you could run the fullrange a bit lower but the dayton can play well over 500hz so there was no need to force the fullrange lower. i just experimented until i found the best xover point.

I'll get some nice final pics and post them up sometime

Enclosure for ICON i think it was 2.5 cubes @ 30hz test fit can still access subwoofer amp while box is in the trunk. also, you just have to remove the box to get the space out. First time wrapping a box. it came out ok, but i'd like to redo it someday. ---------------------------------------- Thats it, thanks for checking it out.

You need to get lead above 600F to produce lead vapor. I haven't heard of a car getting above 180F so you should be safe. I would be more worried about skin contact and lead dust. I used to make sinkers and snags to go fishing and I am still normal. Atleast I think. use to bite lead split shots on my line haha