lithium

thanks for the link. ill check them out

thats not too bad time wise. but let them address the noise issue when u talk to them.

honestly you can read around a decent forum and then pull off a better install then most shops on your own.

fun fact, the yellow package under the monitor is a packaged duck wing. coworker from china brought them in for us. too scared to eat it

we have a trouble shooting guide on the forum somewhere. but what you can do is determine if the hissing noise is coming from the hu or amp by bypassing the hu signal and connecting some headphone to rca cables straight to the amp input in place of the rcas from the hu. connect the headphone jack to your phone and play some music. if there is still hissing then its the amp. Its pretty ridiculous that they didn't listen to the install or felt that the noise was acceptable on their end. shitty shop

should clean my desk.... used some yoga blocks to raise the speakers up.

http://i277.photobucket.com/albums/kk69/killwish/IMG_20160408_185326281_zpstg0wytpy.jpg[/IMG]

I built them to use at work so they wont get a lot of play time. I cant do a really detailed review but the performance was pretty great considering the size of the speakers. They drop off below 80hz as stated in the design. And i used a cheap lepai amp from parts express. Compared to the zaph hivi b3n build i did afew years ago i like this TM design more. I built a pair of tritrix using the PE kit for my living room and really enjoy those. Next project will be a pair of near field monitors like I said. I want to avoid building a subwoofer for now so i'm looking for something that can get down to 40hz or so. Looking at kits that come with precut enclosures as I do not have access to wood working tools. I'm looking at a few offerings on diysoundgroup.com but haven't decided yet. There's also some interesting but more expensive options from melbyaudio.com like the Statement Monitor kit. I use the tangband w4 in my car so a home audio application with the same driver would be pretty cool. However the $800 price tag would cut into my new headphone budget (planned to get some hd600 and bottle head crack this year).

ground issue most likely. What does your total system consist of?

built a pair of Jeff Bagby quarks for computer speakers. Looking a nearfield kit to build next.

probably a youtube vid out there for where all the screws are and clips. if you have manual locks or window cranks then you have some extra steps. Id pull the spacer and paint so its fully covered. water runs down the door when it rains so it needs to be sealed from all sides.

doesn't take much effort to waterproof them, even its something like flex seal or some truck bed liner http://www.homedepot.com/p/Rust-Oleum-Stops-Rust-11-oz-LeakSeal-Clear-Spray-265495/203165633

I've read they're a bit overrated but the size is still pretty sweet. http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_77155_Precision-Power-PPI-A1000.4.html

Power has no relation to sq. When u have the volume knob turned down you send less power to the speaker, right? Low volume doesn't sound bad, it's just quieter.

you could buy all the tools you need and install everything yourself with far better results on your own for less money. fuck that shop

no real point to doing that sort of testing unless your steve meade and you've cooked up another shitty plan to fleece idiots out of money. best to ask around on forums like this one for suggestions based on budget, size, and power requirement. new folks to car audio always seem to believe that matching amp power rating to speaker power rating is some sort of requirement. power rating for a speaker is just the thermal rating for a given period of time before the coil burns up. Amp power rating is equally irrelevant. I think you need to spend some time learning how speakers and amps work. This website is an old favorite of mine, http://www.bcae1.com/

neither the baffles i posted or m5's where premade baffles. get a jig saw and some wood/plastic cutting board and fab them up. for mdf you need to do some serious work to seal them. i used fiberglass and then addition sealing with spray seal. fiberglass is doing most of the work here so the spray is probably overkill. MDF will disintegrate if it gets just a little wet. http://www.homedepot.com/p/Rust-Oleum-Stops-Rust-12-oz-LeakSeal-Black-Spray-265494/203165631 I never had good luck sourcing good non-hardening clay. Duct seal is the way to go, similar density as clay and handles temps better. http://www.homedepot.com/p/Gardner-Bender-Duct-Seal-Compound-1-lb-Plug-1-Each-DS-110/100212441 Most of what you've read on baffles at other sites is garbage, welcome to car audio... Your understanding of how speakers work is also wrong, the reason you put a speaker in box is because the when the speaker cone moves it creates a sound wave from both the front and the rear of the speaker cone. These two sounds waves are out of phase with each other which means if they interact with each other at your ear drum the sound is cancelled out. This is why you seal the access holes in the doors. (the enclosure which the speaker is mounted in also affects the behavior of the speaker, ie designing subwoofer enclosures) google, constructive and destructive interference of sound waves. I wouldn't bother with you idea to seal the front of the speaker to the door trim. You can test the effects of the door trim on sound by listening to the speakes with and without the door trim installed. If there is an issue you could add sound absorbing foam or similar material behind the door trim. Sealing like you mentioned might be worth a shot as well. Dont worry about it until you identify that there's actually an issue.

I had some pretty sweet imagining with fullrangers on the dash aimed on axis at the driver's head. To get there with a woofer/tweeter 2way you need to really dial in the xover and EQ.

the knu kit is better, 4 gauge copper > 8 gauge copper. no question

Not sure why you're still confused as to what a speaker baffle is. It can be made out of wood or plastic. preferably something that weather proof. A robust (thick, solid, study, fucking whatever adjective you like) baffle results in more energy creating sound rather then shaking the door panel, simple physics. the clay like stuff around the edge is duct seal which adds mass to the door panel. sealing the speaker to the baffle is important, you can use foam tape, speaker caulk, or left over closed cell foam. wow that jl audio link is atrocious. wtf... They hit a couple key points at least. deaden the inner and outer door skin create a study baffle for mount the speaker seal all holes on the inner door skin decouple the inner door skin from the door trim panel additional stuff that you should do include barrier products, read everything on sounddeadenershowdown.com BTW, Those foam baffles from crutchfield are really detrimental to sound as speakers are designed to vent into the door. I actually found a use for them in a unique situation for my build with modifications to the foam.

the nvx kit is around the same price as the big brands like kicker or rockford probably.

avoid copper clad aluminum and shitty fuse holder and you could piece a kit together perhaps.

wow are wiring kits that expensive now... just run 4 gauge now and save yourself some hassle if you decide to add more power. this is probably a decent option. though 12 gauge speaker wire is way fucking over kill. 16 gauge is plenty http://www.knukonceptz.com/mobile-audio/amp-installation-kits/sp/complete-4-gauge-4-channel-amplifier-installation-kit-/