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Are they in seperate chambers? 2.5 each?

A measuring tape might be helpful

The wire that needs to be fused is the one running from the alternator to the battery. And the fuse has to be matched to the output of the alternator. There is controversy about where the fuse should be. Some say in the middle, some say closer to the alternator, and some say towards the battery. I couldnt get a straight up answer anywhere so i just put it in the middle. Nothing blew yet

Sir please read the paper about woofer speed. Size has very little to do with transient response. Enclosure is a HUGE factor in the response and how "quick" or how "punchy" the bass will sound. My 18 inch sub hits quick as ever and is punchy as hell. Myths are funny. http://stereointegrity.com/docs/WooferSpeed.pdf Whawt kind of box is your 18 in? Is it a Q?

But isnt it true that 15's or 18's for that matter are sloppy as hell no matter what install you decide to include them in. Just too much matter to move to be able to hit every beat, or even fall behind? I had 2 CVR12's and at quick spots it couldnt keep up at all, not to mention it fell behind for a split second. Almost like it had to clear itself of power before it could hit a long deep note.

Big Shot you are the only person that I have ever seen on this thread that has ALMOST the EXACT setup that I want to get

I hope you got a few batteries, a H.O. Alternator, 1/0awg wiring, and soundproofing going on if you are really going to spend that much money for that much power in your car. And good luck hearing a normal conversation after blowing your "chit" (as you say it) in. Cant wait for you to post another thread saying. "I WANT MY MONEY BACK. I CANT HEAR CHIT!!!"

I have always wondered this and I'm hoping to get it answered. Is there a better way to aim subs? Most people I've seen have had their subs in the front of the trunk aiming to the back of the trunk. But people have also had the subs aim towards the back seats. And I've seen subs aimed to the sky. Is there any advantages to aiming subs to different places? What about the port. Most ports I have seen are right next to the woofer. What if the port was on the side of the box, what about the back? Top? Is this just the way people do it, or is there an advantage of having the port next to the woofer.... Any input is greatly appreciated

Did you make th at design from scratch? Or is there a sub box calculating thing online. I want to make a box with that design except for a SSD15 tuned to 32 hz, 4 cubes.

I say mid-lows because i don't know how else to describe it. You got typical bass, which is just bass. Then you got the lows, the kind of lows that just flex windows and set off car alarms. the deep low. I wish i could describe it in hz but i dont know frequencies. Should I just tune it to 33 like Fi recommends or should I be a rebel and make it 30

I had 2 12" Kicker CVRs. They got pretty loud but they were just not what I was looking for. I know lower will make the lows more pronounced. But how low do I go before the mid-lows are affected too much.

I hate sealed boxes. I had a sealed box for my last installation and it was nothing but junk. I hate the punchy punch that the woofers make and when it hit the lows it made nothing but a flutter sound. The best decision I ever made was to sell it. Ported boxes make a nice smooth transition and are a HELL of a lot deeper. So yea. Is 30 too low or is that probably just right?

I listen to rap and what I look for is a extremely smooth hitting sound. And that is my definition of SQ. So your statement doesn't really make a lot of sense.

I have owned an alpine amp before. The 650 one that puts out 600w. Not gonna lie, i wouldnt buy that amp again. Whether it was my install (which an audio shop did), it seemed like that amp wasn't giving out a "true" 600 watts. I like Kickers amps a lot and I plan on hooking up a zx750.1 to a Fi SSD 15 in the next couple months. Consider Kicker, they are known for power and they are relatively inexpensive.

How are you running that much power? What kind of alternator and how many batterys?

Wow I had no idea that there was a thread specifically for what I just asked. Thanks

The SSD line of woofers have little additions. Copper coils and flatwind something and stuff which I'm not familiar with. What is the advantage of getting these additions. Is it worth the extra $40 or so? What I want to do is hook up a SSD or Q 15 with a Kicker zx750.1 amp with the big 3 upgrade and 1/0 awg all around. If I go more than 750watts I will have to get a new battery and/or alternator which is something I dont want to do right now. Not until i get a new car. It should loud enough to get turning heads at stoplights, thats all im looking for until maybe in a year or so when i get a new car i want to put a fully loaded BTL in my truck. Any input is greatly appreciated. Thanks.

The q's are known as the SQ line from Fi. But what does this mean since everyones view of SQ is different. If i wanted smooth low deep bass, would a low tuned box with a Fi Q15 be my best option? Or is there another line or possibly brand that I should be looking at. And from my understanding do the Q's get pretty loud?

Originally, I was looking for a Rockford Fosgate T215 sub. A buddy of mine could get it for me for $400 which is about half retail. Then i was recommended to Fi. Ive never heard a Fi product. Nor ever heard of the actual company. How are the woofers so cheap comparing? And how does Fi compare to RF. Or JL for that matter.....

You might want to add a little more height than 15 inches if you are wanting a 15 inch sub

Comparing the BTL to the T2 isn't a fair match. I'm thinking towards the Fi Q15 to the RF T215 to the JL 13W7 in SQ and SPL. I want SQ most of the time because I'm not going to be blasting my music 24/7. I like my hearing . But when my buddies want to show off their systems I want to be able to take a dump on every single one of their speakers.

Your right about the tight accurate bass. But deep im not so sure about. If your looking for deep, ported is the way to go.