Philanthro

So the goal here is to have it sound as good as the Icon, but get even louder and handle more power?

I think the older Kickers are very prone to bottoming out. I have the 2002 model of the 10" L5, and in both sealed and ported applications it is very easy to bottom it out with my SAE-1000D (wired at 2 ohms). I know I'm overpowering mine a little, but it bottoms out way easier than any other sub I have owned/installed. Also, the sucking in thing is completely normal, its just how the sub moves to reproduce that frequency. I think you would be best off selling it and getting another sub. I can see this sub being used in a burping scenario, where excursion is small at the tuning frequency, but I have been disappointed in mine using it as a daily driver.

Alright, thanks for the replies. I wasn't trying to make it sound like you guys were doing something wrong, I was just letting you know what the page said. Hopefully it will be back up soon!

Is the video section of the website going to be back up soon? When I click the link it says that the account has been suspended.

It should blow away any setup that you would get from a shop for that kind of money. A couple of years ago a friend paid 3k to have any audio shop install two pairs of MB Quart speakers, a single din (don't know the model) Eclipse HU, 350 watt and 550 watt RF amps, and a 10" Kicker L5... Two Fi Q 18"s should be pretty damn loud...

Do you know if you want to use a sealed or ported box? You might be able to squeeze an 18" sealed, and could probably fit a 15" ported or two 10"/12"s ported back there.

This is going in my sig...

Not 100 percent sure, but your box only has ~10 sq.in. of port per cu.ft. Fi recommends 12-15, and it seems to me like the larger end of the spectrum would be better for moving air...

I looked for one for a couple of months, but found that almost all of them are scams. I finally realized that the only legit ones were the ones that were out of my budget, so I quit looking... There are quite a few forums dedicated to the supra. I would check out some of those and see what you find.

The box looks great. Just wondering if you can get the logo in any other colors, like white? The orange looks cool, but wouldn't go well with the interior of my truck

I am positive. And if I didn't, wouldn't it being playing out of phase? Theres no real problem with actual bass response being reproduced, there is sound, fully and accurate. Just the output is lacking in volume. AFAIK, if you wire them out of phase, then the sub will still play but just not nearly as loud. I've never actually tried so I can't tell you exactly how it sounds though. If you have a local audio shop around you, then maybe you could ask them to demo an amp for you. This might help you determine if the amp is at fault.

Are you 100% sure that you wired the voice coils in phase? (positive to positive and negative to negative). I know it might sound stupid but it could be an easy mistake to make and would kill the bass response. Maybe you should double check just in case...

Hmmmm..... If she was turning left, and had a green light, but not a green arrow, then technically it is her fault because she has to yeild to oncoming traffic. Think about it. If you are going straight though a green light (your not turning) you aren't concerned about people turning in front of you, you have the right of way. If you pull up to an intersection to turn left, you have to wait until the oncoming traffic is clear to turn, even on a green light. However, if she was sitting in the intersection waiting to make the turn and the light turned red, then she is required to make the turn to clear the intersection, and the other guy should have stopped at his red light. If she was making a right hand turn, and her light was green then I think it has to be the other guys fault. She would have had the right of way. Either way, it really sucks. Just be glad she is safe. I think it is bigjon on here who has posted some crazy stories about accidents he has towed. Just be glad it wasn't like one of those.

I think that this one definitley looks more professional. Not sure which one I like better though...

From what I have read on here, displacement is most important for doing hair tricks. Four 18's would have a huge displacement advantage compared to two.

How do you like the Hertz HSK's?

Alright, thanks for the help. I found exactly what I needed on that site

Does anyone know of a standalone subsonic filter you can buy? My friend bought a Kicker ZX700.5 and it doesn't have one... But he doesn't need a full audio processor or crossover, just the subsonic filter. I'm looking for something that preferably hooks into the RCA's, but if there are any other options please let me know. Thanks for the help

As said above, 2000 watts would work for 1 18" BTL but two of them are going to need more power.

That sounds perfect... 40sq.ft. should be more than enough to do the doors, you could probably get away with 20sq.ft. if you only do one layer. Make sure you get the outer door skin as well as the inner one.

I'm not sure how much I'm getting them for yet. Theres a guy on caraudio.com forum selling them for $320 shipped... I'm trying to beat that price but having a hard time. I'm really just interested in how these compare with other speakers... I've heard they have soft tweets and lost of midbass. If anyone has heard these, please tell me what you thought of them I'll check on a price on them from an authorized retail shop tomorrow (its in my back yard almost literally). I'm a huge fan of the space series KL8 system. I have hertz deici co-axials in my winter beater, and I used to run hertz tweeters with my morel components. Thanks. How do you edit your post on this forum?

I'm not sure how much I'm getting them for yet. Theres a guy on caraudio.com forum selling them for $320 shipped... I'm trying to beat that price but having a hard time. I'm really just interested in how these compare with other speakers... I've heard they have soft tweets and lost of midbass. If anyone has heard these, please tell me what you thought of them

thanks i just havent messed with a ported box before. the port seem extremely small but i wasnt sure how to check for air velocity. ill use them exact spec but will it be ok if i use an L shaped port or would a staight one work better. any tips on ported box constrution would be appriecated. I think straight ports resist port noise a little bit better, but I think an L shaped one would be fine. As for box building tips... use 3/4 MDF or thicker for minimal flex. If you are using screws, you absolutely need to drill holes first. Don't screw close to the ends, or they will split. Seal it up well with silicone or resin... Anyone else have any other tips? Oh yea, I'm still waiting for pics of this Lithium

I plugged the Arsenals specs into WinISD, and I would use 2.2 cu.ft of space, with a 2" x 8.5" port that is 20" long. That should give you a tuning frequency of 29-30 and shouldn't have any port noise.

bromo is right. While the numbers look good, the port area is tiny. You will get tons of port noise if you make the port that small. In WinISD, go into "Rear port - Air Velocity" You want that to be under around 35 ms so you don't get port noise.