hardballer7

I think that the biggest problem is that the budget has to cover sub, amp, box, and install. I thought about the nightshade, but I don't know if it would fit into the budget...

Budget is about $1500. Mids/highs will be stock bose system which is pretty impressive for stock...

I know that you can port in the same direction or if sub is firing up and port to the rear then your ok, but the sub and port in opposite directions is not a good idea. Why is having subs and port on opposite ends of the box bad?

How much would it cost for you to reproduce that same design enclosure?

.. you have no idea what your talking about. w7 is all about sq. lmao. The w7 may be a good sounding sub, but just about anyone who has actually heard them both will tell you that the W6v2 is JL's "SQ" woofer...I have owned both, and the w6 would be a better choice for a sq setup...

NOT TRUE!!! I've got a Magnum with the 5.7L and i've been to every LX body forum/charger/magnum/300 forums and there is not an answer for us yet. Unfortunately the vehicles ECU controls the alternator output and adjusts only for temperature. You can bolt a 300A alt on there but the computer will only allow it to pump out what the computer tells it to. Many companies have ALLEGEDLY come up with a solution....but I haven't been able to verify that. I've been searching for about a year now...lol If you figure something out, you let ME know.

x2 Many would argue that driver size has nothing to do with the frequency it can reproduce.

4 15's in your car can be done, but BTL's IMHO were a bad choice. You're going to need 1.5-3KW per BTL, probably a dual alternator setup, and MULTIPLE batteries. In your vehicle SSD's would have been more economical based on the amount of electrical support you will require. If it were me, I'd run 2 of those BTL's with about 1.5K each (appropriate electrical support of course) and then the other two in my daily driver. I don't know if you've ever heard a car with 4 BTL's properly powered, but I would bet money that it would be too loud for you to sit inside....comfortably . In my hood, lot of people would brag about their 4 15's or 6 12's cuz it sounded good to say that "I got 4 15's". But mostly they are P.O.S. subs with sony Xplod amps and just an under hood battery. With 1 BTL18, a decent box, a true 2-3KW and the right electrical you can probably out knock most in your town....just my .02

There's been several threads comparing the Q's to the BL's and basically it's been summed up as the BL's get greater output and Q's thrive in the low 30's of frequency. However, many BL owners have said that the BL's handle their own down low. Two questions: has anyone had both tuned in low 30's that can accurately compare the two? Since I listen to rap/hip hop mostly, do sub 35Hz frequencies even apply to me? (I only ask because most ppl on here that say they listen to mainly rap get reccommended the BL over the Q) thx guys

Could you guys please put out a list of authorized online dealers? I'm in the seattle area and there are not any dealers anywhere near me! I've seen a lot of websites claiming to carry ur stuff & I wanna make sure I get what I pay for. Thanx

It was gonna be for attempting to setup a front stage that could keep up with as little modification as possible, but you warned me before about having too many drivers playing the same frequency ranges....I figure 100.4 for a set of 6.5" components and extra tweets at A pillar and 100.2 for midranges in dash. I'm not too experienced with seting up front stage yet...

I've got Dodge Magnum R/T with 160A stock alternator and from what I hear from other LX vehicle owners, the car's computer controls the alternator output...so upgrading my alternator isn't an option. So with my stock alternator what do you think is the most wattage I can run on my stock electrical? I know that an extra battery (or three) may be necessary along with Big three. Also, since my battery is in the rear, not under the hood, how does that effect things?

I was hoping to be able to run a bl 18 on saz-1500 and a pair of sax-100.4's

That right there says a lot. You are only looking to get loud. Hence the BL is your future sub. Yeah I'm am going to go with the BL. I've been looking at amps and found a pretty cheap amp to match it with, a Hifonics Brutus BXi-1208D http://www.ugotadeal.com/product_info.php?products_id=4895 So to hook the BL up for the 1 channel into 1 ohms to take advantage of the 1200 RMS on the amp, would I need to order the BL with dual 1 Ohm or the dual 2 Ohm ??? If it's a single BL, go with the Dual 2 ohm.

lucky bastard...

Is it just completely unnecessary? If so I can drop the components and make the 6.5 a dedicated midbass with the tweet and 2" midrange in the doors for a "quasi" 3-way setup. If I wanted to go active, would it be better for me to use the x-over on the head unit or the HPF and LPF on the amp(s) I'm not sure what you mean by "quasi" since the 6.5, 2, and 1" speakers you put together would be an actual 3-way setup. I also don't understand what you mean by "drop the components and make the 6.5 a dedicated midbass" because again, in the 3 way setup you did propose, the 6.5 would already be a dedicated midbass. And it's already considered a component setup because you are using different drivers mounted in different locations. as for the 6x9's, I say it's personal preference. Set up the front stage without them in, see how you like it. Add if you feel the need. I'd recommend going active if you have the processing power, and it doesn't matter if you use the head unit or amp's crossovers. But most amps don't have extensive crossovers that will go up high enough to highpass the tweeter and lowpass the mid, so you'll have to take that into account. It might take a combination of the two if you don't have 3 outputs from the cd player anyway. In my original post I was proposing the use of a 6.5" 2-way component set (midwoofer and tweet) and then adding a midrange to it. But if I get rid of my rear fill 6x9's, that leaves me with 2 open channels on my 100x4 amp. Now instead of a 6.5" component set, I can get midbass drivers and tweets to go along with the midrange. That way I can control the power going to everything and I wouldn't have a midwoofer playing everything from 60Hz-2.5kHz.

I'm looking at running these 6.5's with tweet flush mounted in door --> http://www.woofersetc.com/index.cfm?fuseac...Product_ID=4596 with these 2" midranges flush mounted in the doors --> http://www.woofersetc.com/index.cfm?fuseac...Product_ID=5352 these 1" tweets in the dash --> http://www.woofersetc.com/index.cfm?fuseac...Product_ID=3089 and these 6x9 comps for rear fill --> http://www.woofersetc.com/index.cfm?fuseac...Product_ID=3078 This will all be run with 2 100.4's I've never run CDT before but I've heard good things about em and they're relatively inexpensive. Does this seem like overkill or could it lead to some pretty decent mids and highs?

I agree...I may have not clarified what i wanted to do...I want the 6.5" midbass playing 65-300Hz, the 2" midrange playing 250Hz-2.5kHz, and the tweets 2kHz and up. The 6x9 was just going to be in the rear deck. But now that I have heard that rear fill is pointless, i won't use the 6x9's as rear fill.

Is it just completely unnecessary? If so I can drop the components and make the 6.5 a dedicated midbass with the tweet and 2" midrange in the doors for a "quasi" 3-way setup. If I wanted to go active, would it be better for me to use the x-over on the head unit or the HPF and LPF on the amp(s)

nice...thanx guys

I'm still pretty new to the car audio world and often found myself curious about the makeup of a subwoofer and how all the parts work together. After reading conversations about cones, spiders, baskets, vent plugs, poles, etc I was thoroughly confused. I'm sure some other ppl feel/have felt the same way. Hopefully this can be as helpful to others as it has been for me... --> http://www.electronichouse.com/article/ana...f_a_driver/C201 Once you read all the verbage, click on "view slideshow" and there are a few exploded views of a subwoofer. There's still a lot more to learn, but I think this is a decent foundation to building some decent subwoofer knowledge.

ok...that answers my question...so how is doing it that way advantageous over using a component set with a passive x-over network? With components you can run a mid and tweet off one channel. Does going active minimize the output of your mids/highs since you cut the number of drivers you can run in half? Please feel free to educate me if i'm all f@#ked up.

when going active, do you run each tweet and midrange/midwoofer off its own channel on ur amp or do you use a 2-way crossover?

whoa! you put 3000 watts on a Q? damn, i didn't think it would take that at all. What's that box tuned to?

if you're talking from db-r, I'd go with the sundown just because you KNOW what you're getting. There's no chance you're getting anything but an authentic SAZ-1500. There are a few less-than-reputable ppl on ebay and you can really get burned....but at the same time you could score a $999 amp for under 400bucks. IMO: sundown well actually i know someone who is selling a used he says 6 month old 1500d but i could get a refurb here in tx for the same price with new heat sink and its only 60 miles from my house. So should i buy a use done or a refurb one from db-r? look at your options...if you trust that the guy selling the used one respects his equipment, hasn't abused his equipment, and he can prove to you that it works....why not. db-r refurb is as good as new, you know it works, and you get a warranty... your call, your amp