lillitnn92

remember Soundsplinter says the box can be 0.4 - 0.95 cu ft net volume sealed, but the say optimal is .65cu ft. going smaller should be fine, then just fill with some polyfill and you can "in theroy" gain some of the cu ft back.

from Soundsplinter Acceptable:

alpine's site doesn't say anything nor does the manual, but do you think the MRP-M850 would operate at anything below 2 ohm? i have a dual 4ohm 10" RL-i and i have decided i want a little more bass, so i'm wanting to get another RL-i. thing is my options are 4ohm or 1ohm if i do so. at 4ohm i'm not going to get more wattage than i'm running now at 2 because i'm only running it at about 500ish. i'd really like to not have to buy another amp though along with another sub. so you think it could handle 1ohm even though it says nothing about 1ohm? ratings RMS Power (at 14.4V THD+N, 20Hz-200Hz) Per channel into 4 ohms: 500W x 1 (0.08% THD) Per channel into 2 ohms: 800W x 1

from looking at your manual, i would say 50X4 is RMS and the speakers are probably 60w RMS

.65 (well slightly under because of my screw up) sealed. i made a truck box for the truck (obvisously), but now i'm driving a civic hatch. i haven't had time to make another box for it, but it will be .65 sealed like the other, just in regular form. i'm a sealed box guy.

.65 (well slightly under because of my screw up) sealed. i made a truck box for the truck (obvisously), but now i'm driving a civic hatch. i haven't had time to make another box for it, but it will be .65 sealed like the other, just in regular form. i'm a sealed box guy.

http://www.soundsolutionsaudio.com/forum/i...?showtopic=3704

sorry, i should have been more specific. "i want to increase my sub wattage from 500ish watts to ...more" ported is out of the question. i like the sound of sealed, plus generaly ported inclousures are larger and i don't want the box being bigger than my car. i'm just not happy with 500 watts.

okay, then i gues it's new amp time also. i just bought all of this a few months ago, but i thought at the time i would be happy with 1 10" RL-i and 500watts....guess not.

.65 (well slightly under because of my screw up) sealed. i made a truck box for the truck (obvisously), but now i'm driving a civic hatch. i haven't had time to make another box for it, but it will be .65 sealed like the other, just in regular form. i'm a sealed box guy.

because i have my gain set to about 500w.

if anyone ever decides to let an 8 d4 go, please let it be know here first. i have a buyer for 1 as long as it wasn't abused. meanwhile, my 10d4 is now sitting in my newly aquired 94 civic hatch. still in the truck box, but i haven't had time to make another box. still love it to death!!

yeah, we know most are not going to fit. some you could make a spacer, but i'm pushing for a whole new box in same loaction.

I'm trying to hunt down an 8” that is closely comparable to an Rl-i 8 since there aren’t any new to be had.

correct. although he says he couldn't tell SQ from SPL anyway, i'm helping him in the SQ. i'm more SQ oriented, with a touch of loud. he really wants to keep stock box for the sub, but i'm trying to persuade him into atleast building something that would fit in same location, but better quality than the stock materials.

so i've had my RL-i 10 laying around long enough, it's been too cold to be outside working on a box. so later today when i wake up, i'm going to start cutting the

easy, i towed a 90's mustang on a tow dolly from Richmond Va to C'ville without a problem. 3.0 power!

Which is why I went with the 10. Size wise it isn't a whole lot smaller from the measurements on their page, so it would end up taking the same amount of space almost. I still can't believe the sound that comes from it. I’m so impressed I’ll be coming back for more when I need it.

stupid question i just installed my nw Alpine MRP M850. now, on the other amp

So I have this old Bass Mechanix CD, I threw it in the player today to show a friend the new system. I noticed something as it was playing through the tones starting at 20 Hz. where I have the box affixed to the back wall....it was actually making the back wall flex as it was playing. That is just crazy, not in a good way really. I’ll have to find a way to fix that. The shear fact that this little 10 was causing enough momentum during excursion that it was flexing the back wall of my cab, is just nuts. Wish i had good video, crappy camera does video, but quality isn't good enough to even see.

What a difference a gain makes. Update, so my multi-meter hasn't been used much since i left the plant maintenance world. It was the meter's batteries. Got to give props to Duracell, when they stamp the date on them, they have it right. The batteries said March 2008. Put some fresh ones in and was able to get the right voltage and it sounds better now. I can turn it up louder; the sub is blending in with the rest of the system nicely. Still need to do some tweaking, but it sounds great now. here's a pic. i had to cut the back wall covering in order to get it pushed back in as much as possible. i'm going to take the rest out this weekend and clean it up a bit. when i do sound dampening i think i'm going to cover the back wall in matching carpet at least.

What a difference a gain makes. Update, so my multi-meter hasn't been used much since i left the plant maintenance world. It was the meter's batteries. Got to give props to Duracell, when they stamp the date on them, they have it right. The batteries said March 2008. Put some fresh ones in and was able to get the right voltage and it sounds better now. I can turn it up louder; the sub is blending in with the rest of the system nicely. Still need to do some tweaking, but it sounds great now.

2.6 ohm. good?

It’s a Blue Point meter from Snap-on. Fluke actually makes it though from what I remember. I used it back when I was in maintenance at Perdue Farms and Pilgrim's Pride poultry plants. At the time it was a mid-range priced meter. I think I’m just going to play it safe for now until I get the big 3 and a new alt done. I just checked all my wiring to make sure nothing was astray and it's all wired correctly. The RCA's going to the amp aren't the best, but I don't have time to swap them out for new ones today. I will say this, after playing around today, the truck definitely shakes more and it is hitting some low notes with authority, it's just doesn't seem like much of a leap from the old amp. Maybe it’s just my perception at play here; maybe it’s just that much cleaner and lower that I'm not noticing it as much.

then why did it work on the old amp? the voltage range was spot on with all that i have read in many many searches. i was able to increase it right up to my desired voltage and hold it there. besides, in all of the tutorials and such that i found for directions to using a meter (including this site) none suggested a meter with rms and peak settings, just a meter.