gearstix

I'm copying this from ***.. Well I guess I'll post up here too. Here's the 'daily'. 2005 Blazer. 4.3 V6 Automatic. A/C 4x4. Its got about 60,000kms on it. My dad and I started on this box. I had wenn_du_weinst design this for me. Its tuned to 35hz, I can't remember if he told me the airspace. Day one looked like this. Knocked a little piece out.. Lookin down the port. Bottom of the box.. Day two I glued the second baffle on, and cut out the sub holes. This is the second time I've used a jig saw, first time was yesterday when I cut out a mount for y CB out of some left over mdf. I think the holes turned out okay? Its all glued inside on the seams. This is what I got to spray on the box. When its done. Well, thats it soo far. I'm tire as hell lol. Its pretty warm for here, and I've been sitting in the sun all day. What do you guys think? I'll be getting my amp soon hopefully, and some Deka Intimidators eventually. Biggest I can get is the 9A34. But they'll work. Todays updates.. I added some more scews to the top baffle. Theres over ninety now on the top. I hope it won't come apart. I also test fitted the sub. I may get this thing in paint once I take a break. Its hot out.. for here at least. Ran a bit of Mono exterior around the inside of the box and around the base of the brace. I've never used it before.. its sorta a mess, but it'll work. I also painted the box today. Screws.. Edit: I ended up using 4 cans of the Speckle stuff. It doesn't last very long. But they did make it smell like vanilla. Now the garage smells like it too. Well, what do you guys think?

I put my blazer in a ditch, first snowfall of the winter, had it in 2wd, fishtailed around a turn, went out in the ditch, drove through the ditch and made it back up on the highway in 2wd. Sub box and everything survived. Blazer is fine. I was working on my subs and one fell in the box and cracked the basket. Since I don't really want to spend the money to have it reconed, (and waste the coil and all that, that have never seen power) I got some reaaally good epoxy. The basket on the one sub has been repaired with Belzona 1111. My dad and I got it as true as we could before we epoxied it and its pretty good, but it still isn't fixed right. I would like to get a new basket and recone put on it, in the long run. The amp I bought from JohnCarr does work good, I must say. My buddy wants an AP3000.1 now too. He's got a Tiburon with two 15" L5s and a 1500.1 from Kicker (not sure if its the ZX or KX). It's louder than mine, but his box is tuned higher (He doesn't even know what its tuned to, he just built it.), mine has more lows than he does. I'm still not finished tuning the amp. I will get a multimeter and do the gain here pretty soon. I need an alternator. Even with the deep cycle battery I have in the back I get pretty decent voltage drops, however I don't think its any less than 12 volts. I do have two alternators here, I'm going to see which one fits and have it rebuilt locally. Would you guys like some videos? I'm sort of worried about these subs, I don't want to feed them too much power, they are tuned to 35hz, and they should probably be tuned higher.

Hey Mark, Just curious how much it would cost to get one of my Mach 5 SPL-12s fixed. It fell in my box, and cracked the basket. My dad and I used some epoxy and got the basket as true as it could be before we epoxied it, however I'd like to get it repaired right. It would need a new recone and basket I would think. Are you able to repair your subs, and if you can, how much would you figure it would cost?

http://drcrankenstein.com/ as far as I know, these guys were a company in the 80s/90s that have recently came back... there website has been up for a while, but now you can buy stuff... heres a post from Canadian Car Audio forums.. from a while back "Greetings all. This is the formal announcement that the speaker and amplifier company Dr. CRANKENSTEIN has started building products again. We shipped our first product last week in the states. Our efforts have most recently been spent on our home theater loudspeaker company where we were quite content, but due to the ongoing requests from CRANKENSTEIN followers, young and old, we went back into production of the car audio products. New Dr. CRANKENSTEIN products have the old drive and soul but are designed and built with every bit of the latest technology that the world has to offer. Our products were built in the U.S. back then and we are proud to say that NONE of our products are made offshore. Our speakers are still made by hand in Kentucky with the same quality control as always. Our first 2 subs that we recently released were the HIGH VOLTAGE 104DVC & HV124DVC with the HV-154DVC to follow in the next month or so. We have two other series of subs that are due to be released mid summer when our amplifier line will also be available. Dr. CRANKENSTEIN wishes to show its appreciation to everyone in Canada that supported our line and built some of the most unbelievable vehicles that we have ever seen. You truly know how to build the world's finest car audio installs. Our new website (although far from being done) can be accessed at DR. CRANKENSTEIN -. Images of the new product will be posted in the next few days. Our actual announcement will be listed in the next 12-Volt Magazine and we will be exhibiting at the Spring Break Nationals in Daytona at the end of March. Thank you and we hope to see you very soon."

I have been trying to wire up my subs. I have two Mach 5 Audio SPL12s hooked to a Audiopipe AP3000.1D. I am using 8 gauge wire to go from the amp to the subs. However I cannot get the wire to stay in these terminals. I put one 8 gauge wire in and tightened them all the way up and the wire still didn't really stay in there. So what I came up with is this: I took the nut off where the tinsel lead goes to the terminal, then put a length of 8 gauge with a ring connector on it. Will this cause any problems? I don't have both subs done yet, so it is not hard to revert. I find these terminals a pain in the ass! its sort of like what DD has done with their subs.

If I had a computer I'd throw up some pictures. Is there any particular reason why the wire falls out? Are the terminals ment for wire larger than 8 gauge?

The seat will fold up. It was designed to fit in the cargo area of the 2 door Blazer.It just fits with the seats up.. I'm not entirely sure how far it should be away from the tailgate... I will be keeping the seats down though. Because I will be building a battery box/amp rack, to go infront of the box.

Well, my Metra harness was ordered last Monday. Was supposed to be in Wednesday. They got a shipment Wednesday and they never got it unpacked until Thursday. Friday came along with another shipment. My harness wasn't in the Wednesday shipment, so it was coming Friday. They get the Friday shipment in and unpacked, no harness. The warehouse people forgot to put it in. So I didn't get the harness for the headunit so I could wire it up like I wanted to, over the long weekend. Anyways. We're moving so I laid the box in the Blazer, then put the subs in the box. There just sitting there, there not screwed in. I've still got to wire them up. Amp should be on its way. NO HARNESS!! ARGH! Cobra 29 WX NT BT install.

It does have a slight texture, it isn't much. I could always sand it down and repaint the port. No big deal. Its mostly overspray. I hope all the screws didn't split the mdf. I spaced the rows by 3" I think, and I staggered them. 2x2 brace between the subs. Garage still smells like vanilla. The Metra harness came in but wont be unpacked till tomorrow.

??? Do you mean you can't find a harness to buy that will fit or you've bought several for that vehicle that are for it, but do not work some some odd reason... Does the factory H.U. have onstar and all that crap in it??? I seem to remember one of my old car club buds having an issue, where he had to get this adapter that let him put the factory H.U. in the back or somwhere and put an After market H.U in the dash... I think he got the adapter from Parts Express.com... No onstar, no steering wheel controls, no RDS. I ordered a Metra 70-2003 harness yesterday, should be in tomorrow. Hopefully it works.

I cannot get a harness that will work with this blazer! ARRRRGH.

Yea, rip it out right qick and peek at the connections.... If nothing looks funky, your going to have to pull it out and put it on your work bench and test it; Make sure it wrks right there... If it does then break out the multi-meter and test light... Check all your fuses at the pannels, then power wires comming out of the dash... I'm assuming you used a wiring harness kit... One that you solder on to the headunits wires, then plug in to the factory plugs and its not just butchered and spliced in.... I never soldered the connections.. I didn't butcher them either. It was a harness that plugs into the stock harness, has a little module, and then the wires that come out that you hook up to the headunit. I used these. Butt Connecters.... Yuck!!! Jus playin, but I never use those... Some people swear by'em, but everytime I've had a wiring problem, its been those... So, I don't use'em any more.. When I put in a Headunit, I take the factory wiring harness adapter kit lay it out on the bench with the head unit harness and strip each of the connections, slip some heat shrink on, then twist them together and solder'em up, slid the heat shrink over the solder and shrink'em up... Pretty much the same with any smaller guage wiring like that that I do... Kinda nerdy, but I actually like to Solder and heatshrink... My dad taught me how to do it when I was going into Junior High, then I took a Electronics/Shop class in High School and we covered it again... Fun stuff... I don't know how to solder. I'll just redo it tomorrow.. I don't have a work bench, lol. We're moving so I'll have a garage bay of my own.

Haha! I will Mark. Damn these subs are heavy.

Yea, rip it out right qick and peek at the connections.... If nothing looks funky, your going to have to pull it out and put it on your work bench and test it; Make sure it wrks right there... If it does then break out the multi-meter and test light... Check all your fuses at the pannels, then power wires comming out of the dash... I'm assuming you used a wiring harness kit... One that you solder on to the headunits wires, then plug in to the factory plugs and its not just butchered and spliced in.... I never soldered the connections.. I didn't butcher them either. It was a harness that plugs into the stock harness, has a little module, and then the wires that come out that you hook up to the headunit. I used these.

Thanks for the comments guys, this is the first box I've built. I staggered the screws. I put them in because I'm paranoid. The first and second baffle is screwed and glued together. The whole box is glued and screwed together. I've been workign on the headunit in the blazer. It seems like its been going okay but there's no power to the headunit when the key is in accessory., Its weird, I've never had this happen and I've installed a few of these. I may need to pull it apart again and check connections.

I have been looking at getting the AP3000.1D, but I saw I can get the AQX3500.1 for about the same price, has anybody tested them to see if they do rated?

Anybody use the/hear of them? http://www.splaudio.ca/splw.html http://www.splusa.net/index.htm Was thinkin about getting some 10s..

Hey Mark, I still haven't used my SPL-12s that you sold me about a year or more ago. Haha. I remember you mentioning something about the SPL-12s popping the dustcap off when they are pushed? You said drill holes in the dust cap, I can do that carefully, but is there a specific pattern or anything like that? I want to make it look neat, not look like somebody attacked my subs with a drill, haha. I'm not sure how far I'm going to push these, this is just for reference.

I think they will I'll measure the cargo area. I've never sound deadened a vehicle yet either, never really had the need or money too. I gotta buy a windshield for this jeep and thats gunna cost as much as the amp I was gunna buy. Okay, I measured the rear cargo area. I'm not sure how to account for the slope of the back seat, so I made it as deep as the narrowest part. Space availible is 40" wide, 16" deep, 20" tall. Could be taller if need be. I'd play with box designs but I can't remember for the life of me how to. That gives you 5.97663 cubic feet Box will be 3/4" with a double baffle. I cannot get 1" MDF in town. Subs need 3cu.ft per sub

Well I know I'm no competitor or anything. Still a learner. I'm still here. Been checking SSA and CA.com occasionally. Been busy with school and working this summer. I'm sorta behind on all the audio gear. I still have my lil 94 GMC Sonoma. Its going to be my project. I just bought an 03 Jeep Liberty Sport. It'll be my daily until my truck is done. The GMC is gunna be my summer truck, but I'm going to do it up like I want to. I don't have my full license yet, but its coming. September 20th is when I'm eligible to get it. And I still got my Mach 5 SPL-12s. There still in the same place they've been since I bought them. Have had them for almost a year. Still no power has went through them. Is there anything I should do before I use them? Should I blow them out with compressed air or something? They've been in their styrofoam and wood boxes that Mark? sends them in. Sorry I can't remember Mach5's owners name, haven't talked to him in a long time. The Jeep has a decent amount of trunk space. I will measure it soon and see if I can get the SPL-12s to fit in it. Since its fairly new, I don't want to rattle it to pieces. I've been thinking of putting one SPL in each of my vehicles. But I"m sorta thinking it'd be better if I put the pair in my jeep. Here's a few pictures of the Jeep. I'm not overly sure what fits it yet, I'm not as familiar with it as I am with my pickup. I'm a GM guy, this Jeep is a whole new animal. 3.7 'Powertech' V6, Automatic, 4x4, Air Conditioning, Cruise, PW, PL, PS, tilt, command start, blah blah. A ton more options than my Sonoma, thats for sure. Enough room for a system. Could fold the seats down and put a wall in it. But then I reduce my person carrying ability, and my cargo space. I may try to do a hatchback style box. External ports that fire up behind the seat would work. I'm also trying to figure out a what I need to put a headunit in it. I would like something with either bluetooth or aux input for iPod. Thanks for reading the blurb.

I think they will I'll measure the cargo area. I've never sound deadened a vehicle yet either, never really had the need or money too. I gotta buy a windshield for this jeep and thats gunna cost as much as the amp I was gunna buy. Okay, I measured the rear cargo area. I'm not sure how to account for the slope of the back seat, so I made it as deep as the narrowest part. Space availible is 40" wide, 16" deep, 20" tall. Could be taller if need be. I'd play with box designs but I can't remember for the life of me how to. Well I took some pics of the cargo area. Seats up/down. I'm sorta thinking of trying to sell off these SPL-12s.. Either that get rid of my truck. Lol. I want to do so much with my vehicles.. but I can't ..haha

I think I've used that before, I'll go check it out, I'll post up if I need some help.

I remember playing around with making boxes and stuff and had some different software. I had somebody guide me through it before, I had a box deign for my other truck. But with it, I have to make some decent modifications to it to put a box in it. With my Jeep I can just design a box, go pick up the stuff, make it and drop it in. I think now that I can do that, I will actually pay more attention to how to do a box, have more interest in it. I was recommended subs up port up on the drivers side, not sure if it will fit or not. The max exterior size the box can be is 41.5"w, 16.5"d,21"t... I'd like to design a box myself but obliviously get some help with it. I think if I get the programs back it'll all come back to me. I'd like to do external 'aero ports', well probably some PVC or whatnot with flares on the end, like the aeros have. I cant remember the programs, one was ProBox or something like that..

I think they will I'll measure the cargo area. I've never sound deadened a vehicle yet either, never really had the need or money too. I gotta buy a windshield for this jeep and thats gunna cost as much as the amp I was gunna buy. Okay, I measured the rear cargo area. I'm not sure how to account for the slope of the back seat, so I made it as deep as the narrowest part. Space availible is 40" wide, 16" deep, 20" tall. Could be taller if need be. I'd play with box designs but I can't remember for the life of me how to.

I think they will I'll measure the cargo area. I've never sound deadened a vehicle yet either, never really had the need or money too. I gotta buy a windshield for this jeep and thats gunna cost as much as the amp I was gunna buy.