gearstix

So which will it be?

Haha happy b-day... It seems I missed the boat though.

I could I guess haha..Waitin on a email from my box guy...

Wouldn't the Directed be easier on the electrical?

It still does over 1kW at 2, right? 1700@ 20hm according to AmpGuts

Doesn't put out as much power @ 2 ohm. two 12 inch IXL-12.2.2, dual 2 ohm = 2500W+ @0.5 ohm two 12 inch IXL-12.2.2, dual 2 ohm = 2400 @ 2 ohm

I honestly don't know what I will use for sub(s)/amp(s).... its up in the air right now..

I was going to buy one but shipping was $220. So what about a smaller amplifier that will fit in the budget that does power at 2ohm mono? Sure.. I'm open to anything you'd suggest. I'd like something a bit easier on the electrical..(than the orion)

I was going to buy one but shipping was $220.

Wow the paint is great, good job guys.

Heres what I want to do, from Cardomain... Just better subwoofers and stuff. http://www.cardomain.com/ride/331505/3

The amp needs 4 gauge power and negative right? so couldn't I use this to hook the amp to the battery( http://www.knukonceptz.com/productDetail.cfm?prodID=KFX-AK4 ), and then use 0/1 or so to go from the secondary separate alternator to the rear battery? How many batteries would I need?

I've never bought all the wires and stuff separately, I've only used those amp install kits. Im trying to figure out how much it will cost to wire up my amp and stuff. Orion 2500D. I'm going to need an alternator, I was thinkin a universal alternator... I can make brackets for it, we have welders and stuff and I can weld. Reason why is I have an engine coming sooner or later for the truck, and its a different engine than what is in it. So I'll just make a new bracket for the other engine. I want to run the secondary alt seperate than the existing charging system, and have it dedicated to 1-2 batteries and the amp will run off those batteries.. Not sure what batteries eiter, would want something I can buy locally. They do not have the yellow or blue Optimas, nor do I want to spend that much on batteries. I need to know what terminals and stuff I need, all that stuff. Whatever I need to wire up that amp, and do a big 3 and stuff..

lol. I don't think I'd need something like that.. whats the point of the sealed batteries? is it so they dontlet of gass? yeah gases are the #1 and then also leakege... some cells when played hard or charged fast will boil over for lack of a better term and if a cell were to some how tip over and leak,... ooo nooooo you dont want that.. shizzon.. those sounds like some bad ass cells is that what your using? Which of the Battery Direct ones would you use? I will see if my dad can get a quote for me. I guess I'd buy all the wiring and stuff from KnuKonceptz?

lol. I don't think I'd need something like that.. whats the point of the sealed batteries? is it so they dontlet of gass?

Front cell? Why would I need a front cell? I want the second alt to charge the stereo bat(s) only. http://www.orioncaraudio.com/Support/Manua...ual%2047410.pdf you dont need to do that but in that case ---fuse----------fuse------- alt all a distro block will so is bottle neck your power flow. looks like you should run atleast 100 ah IMO I'm sure if I had a wiring diagram or something I'd understand it better. I might draw one up on the laptop of what I think your saying...

Front cell? Why would I need a front cell? I want the second alt to charge the stereo bat(s) only. http://www.orioncaraudio.com/Support/Manua...ual%2047410.pdf

So I'd run 4 gauge from the amp>battery? Do you need a link to a PDF of the owners manual?

Statement. so your saying I wouldn't need a distro block to go from battery to amplifier? errr.. nevermind. http://www.batterydirect.com/batteries/sealed_lead_acid/20 I can get Battey Direct locally. I have a Battery Direct Platinum in my truck now.

Would your stereo be going in the cab or the bed? if it's in the bed(obviously need more cable that way) I would purchase about 20' of 0 awg in one color for the power lead, then another 20' for front to rear ground, then another 10' for additional connections from alt to battery, etc. You can cut the length down about 25% if its going in the cab rather then the bed. Terminals for the second battery, circuit breaker or fuse holder & fuse, probably about 250 amps. another fuse holder to go after secondary battery if you wanna be extra safe. Then you will need about 8-10 1/0g ring terminals, thin wire like 18g for remote turn on, 0 gauge into 4 gauge dist. block x 2, about 10 feet of 4 awg each for power and for ground, if you are doubling up on lengths. RCA cable, again, if in the back of the truck prob 17 ft or so will be good, if in the cab then less. Speaker cable, at least 12awg. Use marine deep cycle batteries if you need a temporary cheaper alternative to an optima. i know thats a pain in the ass list to follow but hopefully it helps a little no need for 2 distro blocks.... you can come stright off the rear cell into a fuse and then into the amp..... marine deep cycle batteries are not normaly sealed..... you need to be sure thay are sealed AGM cells SEALED. shop around you dont have to buy high priced ones but you need to keep your amp hours in mind... get a better plan of what excatly your gonna do and then go from there. There is Energizer AGMs availible here. I'll see what I can get through Battery Direct. The 2500D requires 2 power connections and two grounds..

Would your stereo be going in the cab or the bed? if it's in the bed(obviously need more cable that way) I would purchase about 20' of 0 awg in one color for the power lead, then another 20' for front to rear ground, then another 10' for additional connections from alt to battery, etc. You can cut the length down about 25% if its going in the cab rather then the bed. Terminals for the second battery, circuit breaker or fuse holder & fuse, probably about 250 amps. another fuse holder to go after secondary battery if you wanna be extra safe. Then you will need about 8-10 1/0g ring terminals, thin wire like 18g for remote turn on, 0 gauge into 4 gauge dist. block x 2, about 10 feet of 4 awg each for power and for ground, if you are doubling up on lengths. RCA cable, again, if in the back of the truck prob 17 ft or so will be good, if in the cab then less. Speaker cable, at least 12awg. Use marine deep cycle batteries if you need a temporary cheaper alternative to an optima. i know thats a pain in the ass list to follow but hopefully it helps a little Thanks for your reply! The box and amp will be in the bed, aswell as the extra batteries. I'm pretty sure I can get RCAs, remote wire, and speaker wire locally.is there a website that would be able to sell me all this? My truck is a reg cab shortbox.

If I do my setup the way I'm thinkin, looks like I can only fit tens. Max diemensions is 34 w X 15 h, I'm pretty certain. I've got the rest of my truck bed in regards to length. I've got a few ideas.. Lemme explain this. First off, these are overhead view of how the box would be. There not to spec or anything, just some ideas. Its not the right diemensions or anythin.. just some ideas how I could fit a few 10s. Would fire into my window. The first one, top left, is a sealed box, kinda based on a clamshell on its side. second one has four subs, and a port in the middle. Bottom is just a ported box with two tens firing into the window (not sure if you could fit two tens and the port there, but.. ) I could also do three tens firing in the window sealed.. What you guys think? I'm not sure what to do for subs. Was looking at WoofersETC and Sonic Electionx. Been looking at Infinity Kappa 102.7s, other subs around that price range, especially if I use four, and have to ship them.. I still can get the two IXL-12.2.2s, and the 2500D, but I won't have enough dough to finish the stereo so whats the point.

I might get a refurbished SAZ-1500D and two Fi SSD 15s.. hows that then? Anybody know where to get the accordian gasket or boot or whatnot? I'm not sure where to find it, theres no RV suppliers in my city Can't praise enough about the amp. I bought one from Jacob used. It works flawlessly. The funny thing about subwoofers is even if you buy a cheaper model, you can always throw together a box and sell them to a teenager. As long as you haven't shredded them. But I agree with the consensus of buy as good as your budget will allow. Are you going to be competing with this system in the future? Because depending on that and what type of competition SPL SQ LSQ, that could better help you determine what to buy. Well my box designer says that the IXLs will work better for my application... I guess I'll have to get the IXLs and 2500D. I do want them. But the electrical to back it up is the problem. If I go with the IXL 12s and Orion 2500D combo.. I wont be able to put it all together.. I dunno if I could find a alternator.. I could probably get everything else.. I'll have to use the stock speakers for now I guess.

I might get a refurbished SAZ-1500D and two Fi SSD 15s.. hows that then? Anybody know where to get the accordian gasket or boot or whatnot? I'm not sure where to find it, theres no RV suppliers in my city

I'm waiting to see what shipping on two Fi SSD 15s would be. I think that would be a better option, its a quality subwoofer, and it don't take as much power, so I could use something like a Hifonics Bxi-1608D.