NDMstang65

yessirr

220mm

One of two things happened, you either wired the coils out of phase and smoked them and swelled the wire off of the coil former. Or, the motors were shifted in shipping. If you did not read the paperwork that you got with the packaging materials that tells you to inspect the packaging upon receiving it to see if there was any damage done to it in transit and did not file a claim with the shipping providor you may be in a world of hurt. Post some pictures of the speakers here of the actual subs and how the wires were ran on them. 99.9% of the time people wire things backwards and accidentally hook a coil out of phase with the other one.

It takes much more time to build a sub than a recone, you must have ordered the recone kit when they were running recones, or the day before. A new sub takes about 15 business days to be machined and built, then it ships.

ps. the amplifier could have failed and went into straight DC rail voltage and nuked the sub. keep in mind a speaker only does what it is told to do by you and what you are telling the amplifier to do

junk amps that have no filtering in the output section causing the tinsel leads to glow...even more so when you square wave the hell out of it and your power per time division two or three folds. ..definitely a user error issue here because that amp is rated to do 1700 watts..i'd bet one glazed doughnut that way too much volume, bass boost, etc was applied. You have to do this for a VERY long time for it to even get warm...let alone get hot enough to catch on fire.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=za1URTRy4Wo

The team subs will be available like any sub is..it makes no sense to make a product and then not sell it. Bigger power handling etc.

..no, the painted dustcaps are the team oriented woofers. the metalized stickers had to go, the glue was too inconsistent on the material (ie brushed aluminum, engine turned, blue chrome, red chrome etc.)

I'd highly suggest repositioning the rings if you haven't fiberglassed them yet, you can either spin the tweet down farther and fire it towards the driver more or flip the tweet up higher into the firewall area..it will image way better. I typically put a laser pointer on the middle of the baffle between the mid/tweet and point it towards where the cab light should be on the back of the cab, that trick always works great. Looks great! I love old iron

if it smells like a duck..and it quack likes a duck..it's probably a duck

Good!

Is it just a size change or series change?

New single slug as mentioned above, keep in mind that you will need the different spacers for underneath the basket flange if you are changing frame sizes as well.

They do not offer the old quad 1 coils, those have been obsolete for many years. You can order a ER CH recone off of the recones portion of the website..that is the recone kit for the HC, it will spec similar to the original one and the box requirements will be the same..3-5 cubes for 1 15 is a solid place to start. I'd rate it at 1200 watts.

The coils are a bit longer in the sp4 so that would explain it, granted it's off set to make up the difference but they won't be the same as the other two subs if thats the case.

Subsonic needs to be set 2-3Hz below your port tuning frequency.

seriously..who comes up with this stuff?

Welcome!

..you're running power through it at that point that's why it's doing it, if it actually ran current through it the meter would explode. trust me, been there done that one on the magnetizer, i wanted to change over to DC from AC where the meter was and just spun the dial, it never dawned on me that the meter went from DC, to Ohms, to AC.. When I rotated the dial down i got to the first two ohms settings and then i got to MoHm...and it went WHAP BOOOOOOOOOOM. 1200 volts, 36,000 amps..you do the math.. made plasma that day , thank god it didn't kill me.

Definitely shouldn't be checking any sort of resistance on the hot sides of the battery, it's irrelevant. Parallel, is parallel. Beings that you are using wire and jumping things instead of buss bars, yes you will have more resistance present. So long as you hook the hot to the hot and the ground to the ground you have nothing to be concerned about. You could have different resistance of the alloy that is made up of the fuse block and it's reading the resistance of the fuse that is inside of your meter and varying a bit. Either way..hook hot to hot, ground to ground. The only thing that you could/should be concerned about resistance wise is the resistance of the ground plane to the battery bank itself because that is where your power comes from. Without ground, you have no power. If you short it, it will glow like the sun and take your hands with it. Hope that helps

..because of the ground homie if you had an actual short, you wouldn't be here right now the only time you need to check any sort of resistance is on the ground side of things to confirm that you have a solid grounding spot, which you simply use continuity..checking resistance across the hot side of the battery is going to do you absolutely nothing

ps. what are you doing checking resistance from positive to negative anyhow? you should never do that..the only time you test resistance across something his hot to hot, or ground to ground.

DC system..power comes from your ground. If you actually had a dead short..you wouldn't be typing right now as the meter would have exploded in your hand, the battery bank would have exploded as well, and your car would be burnt to the ground.