NDMstang65

Everything is black now

Name/order number? I've called a lot of people this week..not sure if i've called you yet or not or got you taken care of...please let me know.

no..and...no.. it hasn't been 'replaced' we just took it down because it's the end of the lifecycle on the N series woofers..it's not being replaced by the team sub we had no issues with heat and the way that we did the neo on the motors..that's why we had that massive hunk of aluminum heatsink in the middle of it so it never got hot enough to lose flux..

Not a manufacturing issue..a speaker is an input device, if you do something wrong it smokes and stops working. It only does what you tell it to do in the environment in which you place it in. It's no different than buying a brand new car..taking it 100mph in 1st gear on the interstate and the engine flies apart..that's not because it is a bad car, or the car had issues. It's because you did not shift to the 4 other gears that the car has. Again, it only does what you tell it to do in the environment in which you place it in.

As he said you have the wrong coils to strap a pair of amps, you really have the wrong coils for those amplifiers period.. If you wanted to run 2 1ohm amplifiers you needed dual 2ohm coils.

in und chat

Email me your name and all of your information..i'll see what I can figure out.

Just put a toggle switch on the remote side of the amplifier and split it on a fused hot wire..never put a switch on the output side of an amp, that's not a good idea.

You will not see if a rectifier has failed..they typically do not burn up anything on the board because the amplifier is still 'working'..just not throwing AC out. The onlyw ay to tell is either a) hooking up a cheap speaker on it and seeing if it nukes it again, or b) look with an o-scope to see if you have any notch wave form coming out ..but it has to have a load on it to see this.

When the rectifier takes a crap the fets shoot straight dc voltage out of the output stage.. Makes smoke REAL quick.

ps. i normally like dry ribs, but if i do wet ribs they come off of the smoker dry, spray with apple juice, then hit the grill with a very light coating of home made bbq sauce for like 10 minutes just to caramalize it on both sides.. cooking is something i looooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooove.

I brine most everything i do, ribs normally roll for 4 hours in the smoker, basting with apple juice every hour after a 24 hour brine..pork butts roll on the smoker for 10 hours after soaking in mustard in plastic wrap over night..with a dry rub on the outside I've found the key to a badass butt is wrapping them up in aluminum foil after 10 hours @ 220 degrees on the smoker, then a towel, then in a cooler for 2hours. before pulling them out and working the meat up..the fat layer easily separates, bone pulls out clean and the meat is far more moist

just back wrap the rca's on the other end towards the amplifier with electrical tape (sticky side out) until you get ready to put the amp in

Who holds the patent, if I may ask? JL

The problem is that you're dealing with AC voltage, the rectifier is going to do it's job filtering no matter which direction the current is coming from (whether it's a half wave or full wave rectifier, it won't matter) so you're going to rectify the output from the amp as well. I know where you're going with the thought, but it's not applicable for this. Why not build a filter bank, such as the amps should have for starters. Also, the control of the back EMF in the amp is measured as it's damping. IIRC class D amps don't have near the damping A/B does due to the output coils that are in place to smooth out all the digital noise in the first place. I think its food for thought. Totally agree there, definitely something to roll around in my head.

I'll have to think about that over the weekend, going on 18 hours of hard work now and not in the mood to start thinking about something like that

The btl's have 16 tinsel leads, double the size and strand count, which is 4x what any other manufacture is using and there is still the occasional issue. Surface area and 'more tinsel lead' isn't going to solve the issue Something for you to chew on.. ..if the problem at hand is a result of those polluting up the creek..why should i have to re-engineer my fishing pond to accommodate for the people that live up the creek from my pond and are too cheap/uneducated to build a bridge? they are the ones dumping oil and contaminants from their trucks in the water and killing off all of my fish in my pond that is fed by the creek that they pollute..but i'm suffering the consequences of them squeezing a dollar? The 'most ideal' way I mentioned of doing it before is patented and unavailble.

The tinsel lead is hooked to a coil homie..you have a rearword / back traveling EMF shooting back up the wire of the coil from the magnet being 'switched' and the cone moving back up.. Then the amplifier gates on the fets are telling it to go back down..when it's trying to go back up, and heat starts building up in the leads when the gates are switching at X frequency of the mosfets in the output stage. This is a combination of the EMF trying to go out of the coil, through the tinsel leads, and back into the amplifier...and the amplifier trying to tell everything to go back the other way. It crashes in the tinsel leads and that is where the stress point is, from movement, to heat, to high frequency noise, to EMF. There's a whole host of issues all popping up at the exact same spot and if it all lines up the same way it glows and explodes. You see an ice cube here, the coil around the ice cube is the exact same thing as the coil that is inside of the motor of the speaker..there's no difference there.

Current is definitely an issue too, the lower the amplifier is wired the higher the distortion and the worse things snowball down hill from there. There's REALLY good reason why EVERY pro sound company has all of their amplifiers running 4-8ohms, and all of their speakers 4-8-16 ohm coils as well. Current is most definitely a killer, but the measure of wattage is still the same, 100 amps and 1 volt is still 100 watts...100 volts and 1 amp..is still 100 watts. There's more to the story..and that's induction...and it only shows its head occasionally in certain scenarios, most of the time it's on the positive tinsel leads.

You can a take a jbl/crown a6000gti that does 8800 watts into a 5.8 ohm load and never burn a tinsel lead up, nor burn a coil up. They held up in the extreme van for many hundreds of burps and finished 2nd in the death match in extreme 3-4 with absolutely no cooling at all what so ever when Mike Bartells was still competing with the BTL's a number of years ago. This is a class a/b amplifier and does not 'switch' per-se. There is no radio frequency noise being induced by the output stage of the amplifier itself into the leads. You can take an amplifier from a series of korean buildhouses which are all kissing cousins of each other and 1 in 3 have high frequency induction issues because they all use the same driver controller board on the output fets operating within a given frequency range..which is not filtered out. So, given this information and the korean built amplifiers of said buildhouses do less than half of the power of the crown amplifier, and by definition more wattage present = more heat energy, what is going on? It's impossible for an amplifier design to be flawed and cause significant excess heat generation to occur right? It's doing less than half of the power of the Crown amplifier..how could it possibly be burning things up if Ohm's law still stands and is a law of science? A watt is a watt, and is a measure of the rate of transfer of energy per time division..whether it is heat/time or work/time, it always goes back to joules of energy per second of exposure. I've personally reconed 10 or 12 woofers that were hooked to that style of 3000 watt amplifier from that build house that had failed and took the sub out with it..with all various tinsel lead setups from other manufactures outside of what we did. They were made during a period also when silica was hard to come by and quality control of mosfets out of the orient went to crap putting it politely. Are any of the lead setups the absolute 'perfect' way of doing things? No. The most correct way of doing things is patented, for really good reason.

SP4's do not have sandwiched leads, they are sewn on the top spider inbetween the spacer, aside from that there is nothing wrong with sandwiched leads to begin with. Sub-par amplifiers shooting ultra high radio frequency noise will cause the tinsel leads to glow..if it's not filtered out. Speakers do what you tell them to do, no matter what..it is an input device that takes whatever you give it, and makes it into sound. Email me your contact info and i'll try to give you a call this evening and go over some stuff with you. In the meantime, watch the video. Edit: I would also get your amplifier checked out, that looks like the end result of several of those 3000d's i've seen issues with. It looks like straight DC voltage to me.

could you email me an order number or your name?

They're working on that. Occasionally emails that are filled out on the order forms are incorrect (ran into that a lot) and occasionally things got thrown into spam folder. As quoted in the text above by Scott, it's acknowledge and things are being improved upon.

ok back in again

bullshittin' in the chat