NDMstang65

Capitalization means everything ..everything else is an acronym and stands for "Something" as in BTL, SSD, Q, BL etc...the second letter in Fi is 'lowercase' as in it has no meaning or significance and should be enunciated. Figh.

They all use the same basket = cutout is the same

That's epoxy residue..had a few of the plugs come out so we back fill the whole back side of the plug and the motor... I emailed you about what to do..little acetone and a paper towel will clean it right up and it definitely should have been taken care of in the shipping department. My apologies.

We've got quite a few subs sitting in the rack with no information on them.. Mainly because people put no contact information in the box..just an email that doesn't work..and ship it from a mailboxes etc. What is it? When did you send it? Name? Etc.

Is it Monday? nooooooooooooooo "Business hours" and "Business days" still apply I shouldn't even be on here but I am..lol.

waiting on magnets again

nope..you can't run the old ones and new ones together

It won't matter if you get a recone..from us..or somebody else..and do the same thing, you are going to burn it up again. The coils are wound the exact same way every time as they are done on a machine..positive and negative is always the same. If you had it wired wrong and had the coils out of phase with each other they will fight each other and something will burn. IE No sound! I made a video anyways for when you get a recone...just a helpful hint and a fyi, it is foolish to get a "Hybrid" made from somebody else...there is a reason behind why we use what we use in our subs. I'll make a better video later with a real camera that isn't my phone..but here it is. Hope this helps.

It won't matter if you get a recone..from us..or somebody else..and do the same thing, you are going to burn it up again. The coils are wound the exact same way every time as they are done on a machine..positive and negative is always the same. If you had it wired wrong and had the coils out of phase with each other they will fight each other and something will burn. IE No sound! I made a video anyways for when you get a recone...just a helpful hint and a fyi, it is foolish to get a "Hybrid" made from somebody else...there is a reason behind why we use what we use in our subs. I'll make a better video later with a real camera that isn't my phone..but here it is. Hope this helps.

Big power out of 1 amplifier chassis of korean and/or chinese descent = big problems for speakers. The only way you CAN do it properly is how jbl/crown did it with the A6000GTi which was an a/b amplifier. Bigger and bigger class D switching power supplies, and H bridge motor controller amplifiers will yield nothing but problems and hell on speaker parts. My grandmother always said "If you don't want to listen boy you'll have to feel..." SWITCHING FREQUENCY OF THIS "GREAT" CLASS D TECHNOLOGY MICROWAVES THE VERY SPEAKER PARTS THAT THE AMPLIFIER WAS NEVER DESIGNED FOR! ..it works great on a resistor...until you put it in the real application that it belongs in...then 1+1 makes 3...and speakers die. :shakes head...walks away:

Should be in the first ones..unless you got a phone call and an email saying otherwise...a name or something to go by helps as well I can find out Monday for you..

Oh shit...lol..posting way early in the morning isn't a good idea. Ok.. If you are facing the sub then positive should ALWAYS be on the left...if need be I will make a youtube video tomorrow how you should wire it...

You just said in the other post that Red was on the left on one side and black was on the Right on the other side?!

Many will try...most will fail.

Buy one and cut it apart and try to figure out how it works I'm not one to educate the masses on how to copy something we build lol.

That's the problem then. One of the rubber bands is backwards on one of the terminals. That happens occasionally..as we buy those things 25,000 at a time..and we do not make them. Wire it so positive is always on your left, or very simply the one that has negative on the left hand side facing the sub..pop the rubber band off of the terminal and put the positive on the left side and the negative on the right side. Problem solved

You couldn't be any more incorrect about everything you just assumed . The BL curve is very very very parabolic..and yes it does have a bl^2/re that high..it sounds fantastic because you don't have coil(s) leaving the magnetic gap in areas of high concentration... Coil rock is not an issue..it simply does not rock. 1) Because we know how to design a spider that doesn't flop around like a dead fish and don't use off the shelf flim flam junk like others . 2) The production models are spaced with a 1" spacer...fixing rock issues even more. Even with a single spider pack on Steve's prototypes you have a VERY hard time rocking the coil if you put 10 pounds of force on ONE side of the cone... There are measures in place to take care of everything that you think is wrong . That coil is not going to rock and wear out..we'd be stupid to produce something like that. The sub had a 1.5" long stud hanging out the back end of it for people to support it in flat walls..if they don't use it...they don't have a warranty if they crack the basket. The sub is not for everybody..we don't care that it is almost 17" deep...

Is the positive on the LEFT side on both sides if you have the terminal facing towards you if you put the speaker on the table?

Patience man..patience. I already told you, you have a coil wired out of phase. Take a picture of both sides of the sub with the terminal facing you label them as side 1 and side 2. Do this..and i'll tell you what you are messing up.

You can't say that you have rebuild parts for another manufacturer that has trademarks on those names. If it is all mirror imaged...which is blatantly obvious that the entire page is backwards...it gets around that issue. Sadly..few people can figure it out ...Hell many people think we slap UPS labels on boxes and ship speakers out the back door...they don't even understand that we build this stuff and it is in HUGE flashing red letters on the website...I don't know what else to do.

Doesn't matter what coils are in it..RE didn't have any motor options. It takes a few days to do recones...generally do them one day per week. You can order it right off of the website...everything on the "Other Recones" section is exactly mirror imaged..so you will want to look for something that says ER XS recone..

Coils are out of phase.. There could be a very slight possibility that the markers on the terminals could be backwards on the red and black...that occasionally happens as we do not make those. If you put the speaker on the counter positive should always be on your left if you are facing it.

If anybody says they can make an Icon take that kind of power they are nothing short of an idiot. There is a LOT more going on then just stacking spiders up for something to handle the power mechanically...when you really do not need it to handle more power in the first place. You simply need to learn how to control yourself Just being brutally honest with you. You will be MUCH better off selling the subs and purchasing something that is specifically made to take that kind of power. 99% of the power that you put into a speaker is burned off as nothing but HEAT

We're not going to give you something you do not need or does not enhance performance... Punch a hole in your wall and yank the wire out of it and see how small that is. Your amplifier puts out the same thing that you have in your wall in your house...that is HUNDREDS of feet long Long story short..you don't need it.

same cone..just pressed a little more nothing to worry about